V 




r 



iiis'ronv 



OF 



IN THE 



BAY OF XI) Y, 

Charlotte County, New Bmuswick: 

HjOM THE IE EARLIEST SETTLEMENT TO THE t>KEbf.NT 

time; ixoLimixo 

Sketches of Shipwrecks and Other 
Events of Exciting Interest 



BY 



J. G. LOEIMER, Esq 




f>N. B. 

'iUX I EU AT THE OFFICE OF THE SAINT CKOIX COURIEE 
1<S76 



t- 

I 



CONTESTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

The Bay- Its Peculiarities — Rivers — Capes — Cape Blomidon — Basin 
of Minas — Tides — Fogs — Bay de Verte —Wellington Dyke — Counties 
Washed, &c. Page 5. 

CHAPTER II. 

GRAND MAN AN, 

Early History — Seal Cove — Outer Islands — Grand Harbour — Wood- 
ward's Cove — White Head — Centrevilie — North Head — Eel Brook — 
Long Island — Other Islets — Shipwrecks — Minerals, <§&. Page 11. 

CHAPTER III. 

MACHIAS SEAL ISLAND. 

Description — The Connollys — Lights — Shipwrecks — Fish and Fowl, 
&c. Page 71. 

CHAPTER IV. 

INDIAN ISLAND » 

Early History — James Ohaflfey — Indian Belies — Le Fontaine — Smug- 
gling—Fight for Tar-^Capture of Schooner — John Doyle's Song — 
—Fenians and the British Flag— Stores Burnt— Island Fleet— Customs 
— Indians' Burying Ground, &c. Page 73. 



CHAPTER V. 



DEER ISLAND. 



Early History — Peculiarity of Road System — Fish less Lake — Indian 
Relics— Coves— Churches— Schools — Temperaace — Whirlpools — Loss 



4 



Contents. 



of Life—Boat swallowed up in Whirlpools — Pious Singing Saves a 
Boatman — Lobster Factory, &c. Page 89. 

CHAPTER VL 

C AM POBELLO . 

Early History — Surveying Steamer Columbia — Minerals— Harbours — 
Lighthouse — Churches — Schools — VVelchpool — Wilson's Beach — Admi- 
ral Owen — Captain Robinson-Owen — £ 'ish Fairs — Boat Racing — Vete- 
ran Mail Carrier — Central Road-— Harbour de Lute, &c. Page 97. 

CHAPTER VIL 

RECAPITULATORY AND CONCLUSIVE, 

Remarks -The Bay — The " Bore " — Lives Lost —Five Lights — Salt- 
Water Triangle— Militia Training - G teat Hole Through a Cliff — Wash- 
ington and Wellington — Minerals — Beautiful Specimens — New Weir 
— Porpoise Shooting— Fertility — Houses and Stores — Pedlars — Post- 
Offices — Mail-Vessels — Schooneis — Boats and Steamer — Singular Fruit 
— General Review — Closing Remarks. Page 107. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



C. N. Vrooui, St. Stephen, N. B. 


page 123 


Love, Clark & Co., 


do. . 


•< 124 


H. W. Goddard, 


uo. . * . : ri 


" 12o 


G. F. Pinder, 


do. 


" 126 


M. McGowan, 


do. . . • -. i * ' : 


> 127 


J. K. Laflin, 


do. . . w 


. " 12S 


Griffin Bros., Eastport, Me., and Campobello, N. B, 


" 129 


E. Daggett, North Head, Grand Manan, 


" 130 


Magnus Green, do. 


do. ' . 


" 130 


Mrs. E. A. Dixon, do. 


;, <3o» ^'k 


" 130 


William Watt, do. 


do. 


" 131 


James O'Brien, do. 


do. 


•J 131 


N. M. Small, Woodward's Cove, Grand Manan, 


132 


John Fraser, 


do. do. 


" 132 


Smith & Murray, St. Stephen, N. B. . 


page 2 of Cover 


The St. Croix Courier 


, do. 


" 4 do. 



HISTORY 

OF 

ISLANDS AND ISLETS 
IN THE BAY OF FUNDI. 

G II APTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

, J§j|?|tJlHE various islands Iving in the Bay of 
and under the Government of the 

^i^S^ Dominion of Canada embrace a fair 
1 v ^£® field for historical and descriptive embodi- 
ment. As those islands are no mean 
appendages of the New Dominion, and gradually rising 
in importance, it would seem a fitting time now T , no longer 
to delay to make them better known, and thus add their 
quota to the grand inducements of the Dominion, gener- 
ally, for an increasing population. Visitors to a few of 
tbose islands and newspaper contributors have, occasion- 
ally, presented their pen- sketches just as fancy and 
disposition directed them ; — but, to do those tracts of 
sea-land something like justice, a methodical history, 
published in a form less evanescent than the columns of 
a newspaper, is needed ; and to supply this requirement 
is the intention of the author of the present publication. 

The nearer art approaches nature in her delineations, 
^he nearer to perfection; so the nearer romance comes 
p) reality — fiction to truth — the closer hold it takes upon 

t judgment and our feelings. Historical reminiscences 



6 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets. 



are always fresh and new ; and descriptive geography 
possesses a charm, recommending itself alike to old and 
yomng. The novelist, who keeps his soaring flights of 
imagination within the bounds of probability, commands 
and receives the admiration and approval of every reader 
who desires and delights in something more than airy 
nothings, flights of fancy, and incredibilities. If we feel 
that we are reading facts, although the record should 
read " strange as fiction," the impression is liable to 
be deep and enduring, and, in many instances, carries 
salutary influences with it. 

The pages now in the hands of the reader, lay right- 
ful claim to authenticity, without the embellishments of 
studied diction, or the tinselled adornments of romance. 
Indeed, such are needless here, for abundant material 
presents itself in progressing with the work in hand, to 
satisfy the most ardent lover of the marvellous, that 
''truth is stranger than fiction." 

The reader is now introduced to the Bay of Fundy. 
This bay is a magnificent portion of the Atlantic Ocean, 
running some 150 miles up from its mouth, and 
separating Nova Scotia from New Brunswick. It is not 
our task here to award the meed of fame to Scandinavian, 
French, the Cabots, Americus Vespucius, Colum- 
bus, Cartier, DeMonts, Champlain, or others, as the 
original discoverers or explorers of the Bay of Fundy. 
It is enough that we have this splendid old bay before 
us, studded in many parts with beautiful islands. The 
singularity of its tides has been noted from the first 
dawn of its discovery by European eyes. They have a 
rise and fall varying from 30 to 50 feet, and sometimes 
60 feet ! At all times the flux and reflux of these rush- 
ing tides, more especially at the mouths of the rivers, 
bays, and basins of the head waters, are remarkable, 
presenting objects of intense interest. Not unfrequently a 
sort of tidal wave, which from its white froth foam has 
obtained the name of "bore," comes rolling in and over 
the low flat shores with a seemingly overwhelming 
rapidity and force, hardly conceivable by one who has 
never witnessed it, rushing swifter than the foaming 
speed of an Arabian charger, and with a noise more 
terrific than the thundering roar of an African lion ! 
This bay, has the unenviable reputation of being 



f 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 7 

lodging-place for what seamen dread more than tempest 
gales — fog — and not unjustly ; for during the summer 
months, the very period of the year when salt water 
margins and their scenery are sought by tourists as 
sources of invigorating enjoyment, that detestable foe to 
the sailor and the ttfnrist, fog, comes too ! It brings 
with it and puts on an extinguisher, not unfrequently 
for many days and nights in succession, over the lovely 
scenery of land and sea. But, even this salt water fog, 
dense as it may* be, is bliss compared with* the sultry 
atmosphere of the main land interior — of inland towns 
and crowded cities, where cholera and other contagions 
ills visit the sweltered citizens ; while the inhabitants of 
those fog-visited islands in the Bay of Fundy wear the 
bloom of health upon their cheeks and are strong to 
pursue their wonted vocation. Visitors, too, soon 
become assimilated to the fog — become exuberant, even 
when saturated in a fog-mist, revelling in fog, as in sun- 
shine, becoming as sportive as a lamb on its island 
home, or the tumbling porpoise in the bay. 

It was a joyful sight to the eyes of the adventurous 
navigators of the Atlantic Ocean from the Eastern Hemi- 
sphere, when they first beheld the streak of another 
continent lining the horizon with its verdant sheen. 

The discoverers of a western world must have felt their 
hearts stirred and thrilled to their depths, as the lovely 
islands of summer latitudes erst presented themselves 
before them, lying in the sunshine like "pearly gems at 
random set." No wonder, those daring Europeans felt 
constrained to give praise to God at the sight ! It was 
meet they should, and doubtless their spontaneous out- 
pourings of thanksgiving were heard in heaven. 

It was with kindred emotions of amazement, joy and 
praise that the first explorers of the North American 
coast, gazed upon the broad bosom of the Bay of Fundy 
as they sailed over its rolling waves. The political 
division made in the year 1784, separating Nova Scotia 
into two parts (the northern part called New Brunswick) 
cannot separate them geographically; for they are indis- 
soluble united by an earth ligament, called the Isthmus 
of Chignecto, 12 miles wide, securer more than ever 
were the Siamese twins ; and so may be called with 
propriety the twin sisters of the ocean; and thus, by 



V 



8 Bay of Fundi) Islands and Islets, 

their maritime position, an identification of interests 
seems natural, reasonable and necessary, each for each, 
even were they not nationally confederated under the 
new name of the Dominion of Canada. 

This long arm of the ocean, the Bay of Fundy, 
extending from its mouth to Cape Chignecto, here 
separates and branches off, running up Chignecto Bay 
a north-easterly course, and again turns, now more 
northerly, sweeping up Shepody Bay into the Petitcodiac 
river, penetrating by its rushing tide .to Moncton. It 
runs also from this minor cape in Shepody Bay a more 
easterly direction, washing the western shores of West- 
moreiand and. Cumberland Counties, forming Cumber- 
land Basin — the Bay de Verte, on the Strait of North- 
umberland, Gulf Coast, being only 12 miles distant. 
Here is the connecting link, the earth ligament, the 
Isthmus of Chignecto, through which it has been con- 
templated to cut a canal to unite the waters of the Gulf 
of St. Lawrence with those of the Bay of Fundy. Our 
great bay also turns at Cape Chignecto and runs a 
south-easterly course, passing several capes; the most 
noted, Cape Blomidon, which our seamen of the Bay 
sometimes honor with the appropriate name — <<r Cape 
Blow-me-down," as seldom or ever any vessel on pass- 
ing can get by without paying it the compulsory compli- 
ment of " dipping " her sails, so fiercely does Cape 
Blomidon blow clown upon them ! Running up past 
this cape a narrow run, the Bay widens out into a broad 
sheet of water, called Minas Basin; and, pushing on in 
its mighty tide-rush, is only checked at Truro, along the 
shore of which it takes the name of Cobequid Bay; and 
looking more southerly, it also sweeps along that shore, 
touching the town of Windsor — receiving, in conse- 
quence, the name of Windsor River. Cornwallis, also, 
that fine farming district, gives its portion of the Bay 
its meed of praise, by calling it Cornwallis River, not- 
withstanding that thousands of dollars and tens of 
thousands have been expended to resist the mad desire 
of the wild " bore " of the Bay to roam at will over its 
fertile bosom of broad acres. The " Wellington Dyke * 
stands sentinel to obstruct the enemy. 

The reader will please pardon the digression if we 
deviate a little from our course here to remark, paradox- 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 9 

( ically, that this connecting link, the Isthmus of Chig- 
necto, is the dividing line between the fine County of 
! Cumberland in Nova Scotia, and its equally fine County 
of Westmoreland in New Brunswick, and that Cumber- 
land County is at present represented in the Dominion 
| Parliament by Dr. Tupper, who is a large land owner in 
I each Province, and accordingly seems to hold an even- 
! handed justice and good fellowship for them both, 
i Westmoreland County has the parliamentary guardian- 
ship of Hon. A. J. Smith, who being the Minister of 
Marine and Fisheries, is in duty bound to exercise his 
powers for the general good, irrespective of locality. 

The southern shore of the Bay of Fundy washes 
four counties belonging to Nova Scotia — namely, Digby, 
Annapolis, Kings, and Hants — those counties lying on 
the north side of that Province. 

The northern part of the Bay washes three counties 
on the south coast of New Brunswick — namely, Char- 
lotte, St. John and Albert Counties. 

From this brief sketch of the Bay of Fundy, the 
reader, hitherto unacquainted with it, may form *a very 
good idea of the long and broad expanse of water sur- 
rounding the islands, the principal of which, appertaining 
to the Province of New Brunswick, is herein described. 
The author of this little work, feels keenly alive to the 
task. In this age of book-making, it requires no little 
j hardihood to launch forth on the stormy, fluctuating and 
| sometimes whelming waves of public opinion and news- 
papers' criticisms, an original production. Were the 
author seeking for the fame of authorship, he would not be 
an aspirant — were he writing as a paid scribe, he would 
shrink from the responsibility ; but when he lifts his 
pen to bring info greater notoriety the islands of the 
Bay of Fundy, situate in the waters of Charlotte County, 
New Brunswick, his hand seems nerved to the under- 
taking ; for he feels those islands merit all that truth 
can present in their behalf ; and even then, the words 
of Sheba's Queen to Solomon the King, may be 
appropriately quoted — "The half has not been told." 

The author avails himself, of the opportunity afforded 
him in these prefatory remarks, to tender his obligations 
to William Dixon, Esq., of Her Majesty's Customs at 
Indian Island ; also, to Mr. Walter B. McLaughlin, of 



10 Bay of Ftmdy Islands and Islets, 

■ ■' .: 1 ^ 

Grand Manan, for the valuable aid rendered in obtaining 
and imparting very much information touching the 
original history of Indian Island and the Island of 
Grand Man an. Others, too, who have readily con- 
tributed such information as they possessed, will accept 
the author's thanks; for, unaided in collecting necessary 
material, the present volume would have been deficient 
in many of the most interesting events connected with 
our islands' history. 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 11 




CHAPTER II. 

GRAND MAN AN. 

YTHOLOGY describes Nereus as a 
marine deity attendant on Neptune, the 
god of the sea; with numerous Nereids, 
her daughters, as beautiful sea nymphs 
riding on sea horses: and the fabled 
description has, in part, its reality in Grand Manan, 
which sits as an ocean goddess out on the restless waves 
of the Bay of Fundy, with numerous little islands, like 
marine Nereids, clustered around her. This fine island 
and its many appurtenances of minor islands and islets, 
comprise the Parish of Grand Manan, in the County of 
Charlotte, in the Province of New Brunswick. The 
province, having been divided into counties — the County 
of Charlotte is bounded on the south by the Bay of 
Fundy; and on the west by the River Saint Croix and 
the western shore of Passamaquoddy Bay; on the east 
by a line running true north thirty miles from Point 
Lepreaux ; and on the north by the line running true 
west from the termination of the last-mentioned line. 
Deputies Wilkinson and Mahood made this survey in 
a. d. 1838 ; and, subsequently, a re-survey was made by 
Deputy Mahood in the year 1845, establishing the 
original boundaries, and including all the islands adjacent 
thereto, and the Island of Grand Manan and the islands 
adjacent to it. The division of the province into 
counties was next followed by the division of each 
county into parishes; and by an Act of Legislature 
passed 1st May, 1854, the Island of Grand Manan, with 
its appurtenances, became a separate political parish, 
known as the Parish of Grand Manan. 

It must not be understood, however, that Grand 
Manan was not a parish, distinct from the other parishes 
in the county, previous to the political divisions under, 
and by authority of the Act passed in 1854. The is- 



V 



and fctT ^ 

12 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, \ i 

land had been regarded as the Parish of Grand Manan 
many years before — to which reference will be made on 
another page, connected with a circumstance of no com- 
mon kind — but we must not anticipate. It was by the 
codification of the laws and statutes of New Brunswick 
in the year 1854, that the law prescribed the political 
division of the province into counties and parishes; 
and thus Grand Manan, with its island appurtenances, 
was, in common with the other parishes, firmly and de- 
finitely set apart, by legal statute, as the Parish of Grand 
Manan, in the County of Charlotte. 

The boundaries of this important parish of islands 
having been definitely settled, the main island, Grand 
Manan, in extent, is 20 miles long, and 8 miles broad. 
"Calkin's Geography'* so describes it, and as that work 
has been introduced as a text book into the public 
schools of New Brunswick, under the sanction of the 
Board of Education, it would be assuming more than 
would be conceded, to dispute its correctness, conse- 
quently, we take it for granted that this fine island is of 
the aforesaid dimensions. Its earliest history runs 
co-eval with the discovery of the Bay of Fundy; although, 
doubtless, many events and exciting scenes, abounding 
with intense interest, have sunk beneath the dark wave 
of oblivion, which neither grapnel, nor skillful diver, nor 
pearl-fisher can ever bring up to appear on historic 
page, which is much to be regretted. 

The intrepid and ardent Champlain, who with De 
Monts furrowed the waves of the broad fSay of Fundy 
with his adventurous keel in the years 1604-5, mentions 
the discovery of the island w T hile coasting along from 
the St. John Kiver to Passamaquoddy Bay. There ex- 
ists a slight difference iu the orthography of the word — 
the name of the island — as among the subjects of Her 
Majesty it is spelled Grand Manan; while the subjects 
of the American Republic invariably spell it Grand 
Men an. A custom's officer has only to note the "e" in 
the last part of the name on barrel, "or box, or parcel 
that may reach the island, to assure himself whence it 
came. American authority cites the Passamaquoddy 
Indian in support of its orthography of the word Men an, 
signifying island ; but Champlain speaks of it, as men- 
tioned by him in his voyage-description, as called by 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 13 



the savages Manthane ; and, again referring to the 
island, spells it Manasne; leaving the reader, as it were, 
to choose for himself, which seems a very easy mode of 
overcoming a difficulty. Champlain speaks of having 
anchored at one time near the Southern Head of the 
island, and it appears he left the best proof possible 
that he did so; for, in the year 1842, Mr. Walter B. 
McLaughlin, whose residence is at Southern Head, found 
the remains of a large anchor that must have lain be- 
neath the salt w r ater wave,- subject to the corroding 
haud of rusty time, for over 200 years! Our inform- 
ant states as his opinion, circumstances tending to 
confirm it, that the bold navigator, Champlain, must 
have run his vessel aground in one of those "fog-mulls," 
which almost invariably make an annual visit, envelop- 
ing for the time being the entire island, its islets, and 
the surrounding waters, in a pall of density so thick as 
to render it impenetrable to vision. Even "Peeping 
Tom," were he here in a fog-mull, would have to ac- 
knowledge his poor eye-sight. Mi*. McLaughlin states 
that the shank of this anchor was eleven feet long; and, 
at one part of it — the shank — it was seven inches in 
diameter; and although it must have originally weighed 
some 14 cwt., it was reduced by the long lapse of time, 
subject to rust and the action of the sea, to less than 
300 lbs — an indubitable evidence that, over two centuries 
had passed away, with all the strange and mighty 
changes which the old and tiie new world, the eastern 
and the western hemisphere, have experienced, since 
Champlain lost his anchor at Southern Head, Grand 
Manan! Traditionary legends tell us many strange 
stories relating to Grand Manan, as having occurred 
long before the advent of Champlain on its coasts — as 
to pirates making it their favourite rendezvous, secret- 
ing money (hence, we have a cove on the western side, 
called Money Cove) ; and at the mouth of the deep-dug 
hole, making an unhappy victim swear to keep that 
money safe from all comers for all time; and then, to 
make the spirit-sentinel keep good faith to the pledge 
given while in the body, shooting the swearer, and bury- 
ing the body with the pirated silver and the gold. But 
those yarns, spun out by lovers of imaginative marvels 
to excite the wonder of the credulous, belong not to 



14 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



authentic history, and so they are as they ought to be 
discarded from its pages. It is well authenticated that, 
the Passarnaquoddy Indians were the undisputed 
possessors of the island until about the year 1776; for 
about this period a white family by the name of 
Bonny arrived at the island from the mainland of New 
Brunswick, and pitched their tent near Grand Harbour, 
at a place called Bonny's Brook, which name it retains 
to the present time, and probably will in the long 
future. Bonny, with his iamily, remained unmolested 
for about three years, when they were finally ordered to 
leave by the Passarnaquoddy Indians, under the direc- 
tion of a Colonel John Allan who, in 1777, conducted 
operations in eastern Maine. This tribe of Indians was 
allied to the American cause during the Revolution. In 
speaking of this tribe of savages, as they were then, the 
term Passarnaquoddy comes from Peskamaquontik, and 
that from Peskadaminkkanti — viz., "it goes up into 
the open field"- — and not from the word Quoddy, which 
signifies poHock, as generally understood. 

An American writer, from whose work we make 
several extracts, states that from the best authority ob- 
tainable "one of the earliest settlers on the island was 
Moses Gerrish of Massachusetts, who adhered to the 
King at the breaking out of the Revolution, and was 
attached to the commissary department of the royal army. 
Also, one Thomas Ross and John Jones ; Jones return- 
ing to the United States, Gerrish and Ross remaining," 
Of Colonel John Allan's descendants, it may not be 
inopportune to state that our kind informant, Mr. W. 
B. McLaughlin, whose name we will have occasion to 
use quite freely, says he is intimately acquainted with a 
grand-daughter of the Colonel, now residing at Lubec, 
Me., and, whose silver hairs count the age of 82 years. 
From this venerable lady, much of the history of Grand 
Manan has been gleaned. Of a great-grandson of the 
said Colonel Allan, it may be here recorded that he now 
lives on the island, and in a state of abject poverty. It 
cannot be that the sin of the great-grandfather, the 
Colonel, in commissioning the Indians to drive off poor 
Bonny from Bonny's Brook, could have been visited on 
the innocent great-grandson — and yet, the sins of 
ancestors are visited upon the children even to the 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 



15 



third and fourth generation. So reads the Scripture — a 
lesson worthy of the most serious attention. 

On the expatriation of Bonny and his family they 
settled in Maine, then part of Massachusetts, ,and their 
New Brunswick relatives and friends, not learning of 
their location, gave them up as lost — massacred by the 
Indians; but at the close of the revolutionary war, they 
felt the love of their old home in New Brunswick too 
strongly preponderating in the heart to remain as exiles, 
and therefore, obedient to the yearning dictates of love 
of home, of kith and kin, appeared again on New 
Brunswick soil. The first white male child born on 
Grand Manan was Alexander Bonny, born at Bonny's 
Brook, who grew, his first year or two, like a young sea 
gull among the rocks, washed bv the drifting salt water 
spray. He became a Baptist Minister, and visited his 
native Isle for the last time in 1862; and subsequently 
died at the greatly advanced age of 90 years. 

Of Moses Gerrish, according to Sabine's testimony of 
him, he was a man possessed of considerable ability — 
one who "would spread more good sense on a sheet of 
paper than any person of his acquaintance. " Mr. 
Gerrish received a Magistrate's appointment, and held 
that office until his death. He died in the year 1830, 
in the 80th year of his age. Speedily following the first 
white settlers — fresh acquisitions added to the number — 
"William Cheney and family from Newburyport, Mass., 
and others. Gerrish and Ross left no posterity ; but 
Cheney's descendants are numerous. His daughter 
Barbara takes precedence as the first white female child, 
born on the island in the year 1787; and Moses, his 
youngest son, proudly asserted the prerogative of being 
the first male white child born here ; but the Rev. 
Alexander Bonny disputed the Cheney claim to native 
heirship; and, as previously mentioned dates show, 
proved successfully that the modern Jacob had inno- 
cently attempted to steal away the modern Esau's 
birthright Moses died in the year 1873, aged 83 
years 3 months, his remains receiving interment in his 
native soil which he loved so well. Now followed on in 
rapid succession, as settlers, the Daggetts, Smalls, 
Guptills (then spelled Gubtail), Wormells, Ingersolls, 
Bancrofts, Woosters, Ingalls, Newton, and others. All 



16 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



of these were from the old colonies of the States; but, 
cherishing a patriot love for the old English flag, sought 
their homes on British land, although that land was a sea- 
girt isle, and that period presenting but few attractions 
to any less than the hardy and adventurous pioneer. 
Daggett erected a grist-mill at the head of tidal water at 
Grand Harbour, near the present residence of Mr. John 
Daggett; and Wooster, wife equal industry and per- 
severance, Jbuilt a tannery, and began the manufacture 
of boots and shoes; but fish were numerous and too 
easily taken to encourage raising grain for the grist-mill; 
and so, too, the tanning of hides had to give place to 
the capture of fish. Those were the days when herring, 
cod and pollock would rush into Grand Harbour in 
such immense schools that the ebbing tide would leave 
them in countless numbers on the shore, "knee deep," 
in the phraseology of those times. In justice to others, 
first settlers, the names of John Kent, Dr. Faxon, 
Franklin, Smith, Bryant, Blake, Blanchard, Bingham, 
Benson, Southwick, Rasor, Rich, Moon, Flagg, Russell, 
Morse, Sprague, Chapman, Richardson, Kemble, Fisher, 
Fry, Barker, Kimball, Shepherd, Woodberry, Drake, 
Cameron and Standwick may be added — others adding 
steadily, such as Josiah Winchester, from Nova Scotia, 
also, Daniel McLaughlin from Nova Scotia r of whom 
further mention is made on another page. 

The present inhabitants of the island, on reading over 
the names as above recorded, will find that but very few 
of the original settlers have left descendants — many of 
the persons, whose names are here before us, have 
passed away from the cares and trials, the joys and 
sorrows of this life forever — -the present residents of the 
island, many of them, knowing little, and caring less, 
about those who redeemed this beautiful island from its 
occupancy by the Passamaquoddy Indian, and opened 
up a bright, and fair, and prosperous inheritance for 
them, and their successors, through untold generations. 
But so it is. Nevertheless: — 

''The waves of time may devastate our lives, 
The frosts of age may check our failing breath; 

They shall not touch the spirit that survives 
Triumphant over doubt, and pain, and death.' 1 

In addition to the names of the earliest settlers on the 
island, we find, Waller, Gaskill, Thomas, Dixon, Burke, 



In Charlotte County, New Brtmsicick. 



17 



Ebaig, Drugan, Redmond, Evan, Kendrick, McLennaiij 
McCarty, Boyle and others. Cochran Craig and 
Thomas- Redmond taught school for several years, and 
earned for themselves, among the inhabitants, an esteem 
and a reputation that will blossom and bloom in the 
memory of surviving friends with perennial freshness, for 
years and years. Another name, Siiell, merits mention 
— he too, taught a school on the island; and his kind- 
liness, of disposition, and other winning qualities, have 
endeared him in memory to those who, when in their 
teens, received instruction from the good old man, who 
now, "after life's fitful fever, sleepeth well." 

The settlement of Seal Cove dates about the year 
1785. It is to be regretted that no better acount can be 
given of one of the origin ah settlers, if not the first one, 
which it seems he was, than that he was a fugitive 
from justice. His name was Wheeler, and he may be 
justly considered as the father "skedadler" of all the 
"skedadlers" that followed after, from time to time, even 
to this day. Connected as he was with a gang of coun- 
terfeiters — Ball, Gates, and Woodbury — who had their 
head-quarters at Devil's Head, on the bank of the St. 
Croix River, not far from the little village on the 
opposite side of the river, known as the Ledge, and 
there coined counterfeit silver quite extensively. Suspi- 
cion, well-grounded, soon sent officers of justice to arrest 
the gang, and Ball shot the officer who attempted to 
arrest him. The murderer was subsequently arrested, 
tried, convicted and executed in the State of Maine. 
Woodbury, being also arrested, and convicted of 
counterfeiting, had his ears "cropped," which must 
have seriously affected him auricularly. Gates eventu- 
ally found his way to Nova Scotia, living to old age ; 
but, as if the curse of false coin haunted him even to 
grey-haired years, he committed suicide at Granville, N. 
S., by hanging himself in an orchard to an apple 
tree ! The present light house keeper of Gannet 
Rock Light, Mr. W. B. McLaughlin, when a boy, had 
often seen Gates, and heard him relate much of Grand 
Manan history. 

Wheeler was lucky enough, for the time, to get to 
Grand Manan, and, as has been stated, settled at Seal 
Cove. How fared it with him? Let us see. All around 



18 



Bay of Fiindy Islands and Islets, 



the cove at that time, a thick wilderness of woods pre- 
sented a well-chosen retreat for Wheeler ; but, only for 
a brief period, for he literally starved to death ! His 
remains now lie, secure from all arrest, on a hill on Lot 
No. 46. At his death, his emaciated, starving wife, 
with a woman's true devotion under the most trying 
circumstances, travelled over sharp and rugged rocks 
from Seal Cove to Harbour Island, to obtain assistance 
to bury her husband. A hop vine, planted by his guilty 
hand, still marks the spot wbera his log cabin sheltered 
him and wife. Thus ended the mortal career of those 
counterfeiters, wdio having commenced their nefarious 
business at Devil's Head, ended their guilty lives 
under the devil's influence. Surely, the "way of the 
transgressor is hard." 

It may not be uninteresting to state that the dies 
used by those wretched counterfeiters, were committed to 
a watery grave by casting them out of their boat near 
the centre of Seal Cove Sound, between the red cliffs 
near W. B. McLaughlin's residence, and Hardwood Hill 
on Great Wood Island. The crucibles were discovered 
and recovered a few years ago, nigh the spot where 
Wheeler's log hut stood — most probably hid by him for 
future use. After the death of Wheeler, two brothers, 
John and Joseph Blanchard, came to the island from 
the States, and made their permanent settlement at Seal 
Cove. Next followed Henry Kemball and James 
Parker ; and in the year 1800, Doctor John Faxon came, 
settling at Seal Cove Creek, on Lot No. 46. The 
Doctor brought his family with him; and, under the 
influence of his enterprising spirit, Seal Cove seemed 
to start, as if by magic, into new life. With a mind 
capable of comprehending the resources lying dormant 
all around his new and chosen location, he was 
keenly alive to the advantages already ripe for develop- 
ment, and at once commenced action, by having a 
passage opened through the " sea wall " into the cove. 
This accomplished, a splendid little high water harbour 
w T as at once ready for small vessels and boats ; and the 
fishermen and coasters, who make the Seal Cove Creek 
Harbour their safe and convenient haven, should ever 
remember with gratitude the name of the good and 
energetic physician-, Doctor John Faxon. Connected 



In Charlotte County, New Brunsicick. 19 

with the arrival of Dr. Faxon at Seal Cove, is a circum- 
stance which cannot well be omitted. The Doctor 
brought with him a Scotchman by the name of John 
Tar. As he was a sailor by profession, nothing could be 
more appropriate than to call him i ' Jack Tar," for 
so in name and verity he was. Now this Jack Tar had 
sailed under the flag and command of Captain Paul 
Jones, and as Paul Jones had been hi storied as a pirate 
captain, so our Seal Cove emigrant, Jack Tar, must 
have been, as one of the crew, a pirate too. It was the 
boast of Jack Tar at Seal Cove, especially, when "on a 
spree" — under the influence of liquor — that he fought 
under Paul Jones on board the Bon Homme Richard > 
in the bloody engagement with the British frigate 
Serapis, Captain Pierce. 

Jack Tar, was exceedingly vain of this battle, and, 
when on his bacchanalian riots, would vaunt on the 
carnage of that sanguinary conflict, with all of a sailor's 
enthusiastic volubility, and in addition, sing sea songs 
and songs composed by enemies of King George the 
Third. Dr. Faxon having brought Tar over to the 
island as his " man Friday," endured much of his bad 
conduct patiently for a length of time ; but that forbear- 
ance at last was exhausted, and, accordingly, when Tar 
in one of his sprees played up the old tune of Paul 
Jones and King George, and the Bon Homme and the 
Serapis, and the scuppers running blood, and the 
wild hurra of the pirate song, the Doctor, at the hour 
of midnight, and while a storm was raging without, put 
the old sailor out of doors to seek shelter where ho 
would or could. Tar attempted to get to James 
Parker's, about a mile distant from Faxon's ; but, in 
the storm and darkness, and in liquor as well, he fell 
over a cliff, and was found on the rocks beneath, the 
next morning, with his brains scattered over the stones ! 
His remains lie buried near the sea on Lot No.' 1, the 
same lot on which Cyrus Benson now resides. The 
cove, where Tar was killed is called Tar's Cove to this 
day. A rough stone, unchiselled and unlettered, taken 
from the beach, marks the spot were John Tar, the 
Scotch pirate, is shut in and shut out from battles acid 
from grog. 

Turning from such an unpleasant episode in our 



20 



Bay of Fundi) Islands and Islets, 



history, and referring again to the active Doc on. 
we find him turning his attention to shipbuilding ; and 
as ship timber of excellent quality was then abundant 
and easy of access, the Doctor had the keel of a ship 
laid, and between the years 1809-11, launched the first 
and only full-rigged ship ever built on Grand Manan. 
The doctor must have been cogitating on a name for 
his first-born ship, and so blundered and wondered 
himself into the story of good old Zacharias, who wrote of 
his first-born son, "His name is John ;" and so Faxon, 
very unseemly, called her — the ship — John. The John 
was about 500 tons burthen, and it i3 to be hoped that 
our Grand Manan ship may yet return t,j her native 
island, laden with spices from "Ceylon's spicy Isle," 
or — "costly gems from India's coral strand." Regret- 
fully, we must now bid adieu to the enterprising Dr. 
John Faxon, as he, on the declaration of war in 1812, 
hastily put all his property on the island into other 
hands, and returned to the States, never again return- 
ing even a "'flying visit" to his favorite Seal Cove, where 
many warm friends would have given him a truly hearty 
reception. His property, which was considerable, fell 
into the hands of the Ingersolls, Bensons, and others, 
who prosecuted shipbuilding afterwards for a time. In 
1845, the brig Wanderer of 130 tons was launched 
from Benson's shipyard. The Wanderer proved to be 
the last square-rigged vessel built on the island, although 
some very fine schooners since that period have 
been built here — so many that it would be tedious to 
enumerate them all ; and yet, as deserving of special 
notice, may be mentioned the Grape Shot, built by 
Captain Eben Gaskill at North Head ; also the Anglo 
American, built by Hart, Pettes, and Bancroft in 1866. 
Both those vessels were handsome models of naval 
architecture ; and the A nglo American won the 
deserved reputation of being the fastest sailing vessel 
along the coast of New Brunswick, or that of the State 
of Maine. Her tonnage was one hundred and two tons ; 
and as a "fruiterer" between New York and the West 
Indies, she made the quickest runs of any others on the 
line. The Anglo was a favorite with the islanders — all 
felt proud of her, for she was a trim craft, and could 
leave her "wake" for others to follow after. She sub- 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 21 



sequently became the property of a Boston firm, and 
was totally wrecked in the West Indies. 

In the American War of 1812, Grand Manan, from 
its isolated position, became a favorite rendezvous for 
privateers and piratical crafts, and British cruisers had 
many an exciting chase to catch them. On one 
occasion an American privateer entered Grand 
Harbour and seized a vessel in Bonny's Brook while 
quietly riding at anchor. As a cat catching a mouse 
only increases desire for another, so the privateersmen, 
having caught one vessel, felt eager for another, and 
with whetted appetite for a second prize pounced upon 
schooner Sally, owned by Wooster and Intralls, who 
with becoming forethought, anticipating a visit from the 
Yankee privateers, had removed a plank from Sally's 
bottom, which of course rendered the craft altogether 
unseaworthy. The privateers attempted to repair 
damages, but failed in the attempt, and Wooster and 
Ingalls were left in possession of their Sally. At 
another time Seal Cove was favoured by a visit from one 
of those privateers, who, calling on Joseph Blanchard, 
haughtily demanded a supply of potatoes. Blanchard 
refused to comply with the demand by telling the 
Captain of the privateer that as he was a British subject 
now, he would not afford succor or feed the enemies of 
King George. "However," said he, pointing to the 
potato field, "there are the potatoes, and if you are 
rascals snough to steal them — -you must dig them." It 
may have been the plucky spirit evinced by Blanchard, 
that saved him from further aggressions, for an enemy 
always admires true courage, even in his most inveterate 
foe. On another occasion, a British cruiser chased one 
of those privateers so hotly that the privateer ran ashore 
on the western side of the island ; the crew escaping to 
the woods and finding their way to Seal Cove, stole a 
large boat from Alexander McLane , and, as is sup- 
posed, landed safely at Cutler, Me. 

Deep Cove, which lies a few miles southward of Seal 
Cove, was first settled in 1816, by Wm. Henry Silas 
Card and Dyer Wilcox, and the year following by 
William Robinson, by birth a Dutchman and by pro- 
fession a British soldier. Robinson fought under 
General Braddock, and was with the army in the defeat 
4. 



22 



Bay of Fundi/ Islands and Islets, 



at Fort du Quesne, in 1755, and afterwards followed 
the fortune of war throughout the stirring events of the 
revolution. At the close of the w 7 ar, he located at Yar- 
mouth, N. S., subsequently removed to Grand Manan, 
at Deep Cove, and finally returned to Nova Scotia, 
where he died at the uncommonly great age of 110! 
What a life history -his must have been ! What a 
volume of 110 years' history between the cradle and the 
grave ! The greatest part of this ]ong life spent on 
battle-fields, amid human slaughter, the groans of the 
dying, and the blood of the brave ! But Robinson's 
next trumpet-call will be : ; 'Arise, ye dead, and come to 
judgment !" 

Daniel McLaughlin, also a disbanded soldier of the 
British army, came to the island and located at Deep 
Cove in the year lb29. He obtained his discharge from 
the Royal Artillery service at Halifax, N. S.; and, in 
common with hundreds of other discharged soldiers, 
received a free grant of land in a new settlement in the 
County of Annapolis, N. S., called Dalhousie Settle- 
ment, in honour of Lord Dalhousie, who was at that 
time, 1829, Governor of Nova Scotia. Those discharged 
soldiers had a generous provision given them by the 
British Government, to enable them to make a success- 
ful beginning for future permanent homes. Three 
years' rations, served monthly, with military regularity, 
consisting of flour, pork, peas, &c, — in fact soldiers' 
rations in full, for men, women and children — and 
what would be considered now-a-days a most horrible 
thing, a ration of rum, also monthly. Time, indeed, 
many drunken sprees occurred — certainly once a month 
— and as there w r as no enemy to fight, they must needs 
have something monthly more practical among them- 
selves, than a sham fight. In addition to the rations 
each man had given him an axe, hoe, spade, billhook 
and handsaw. Cross-cut saws were served out — one to 
a certain number of men, also a whip-saw to a certain 
number. Notwithstanding all these encouragements, 
it seemed impossible to manufacture farmers out of the 
red coats. While rations and rum were provided them 
gratis, many of them managed to erect small log huts, 
and cut wood enough to keep warm in winter ; but, as 
soon as the meat and the drink stopped, scores of them 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 23 



sold out their land for whatever they could get for it, and 
scattered throughout the country in every direction. It 
must not be understood, however, that there were no 
exceptions to this class of settlers, for many of them 
proved industrious, temperate and quick to learn the 
method of clearing up a new farm in the forest. Some 
of them, too, had drawn poor land, and, as it often is, 
those who less deserved good land, not caring to till it, 
were the persons who drew the lucky ticket : but on 
their selling out, the industrious and frugal settler 
bought such lots at a mere trifle. 

Daniel McLaughlin maintained a character in the 
settlement for strict sobriety ; but as his lot proved to 
be barren soil, he very reasonably left it, and being like 
Sir Walter Scott very fond of a dog, and Robin Hood 
very fond of hunting, he threw pickaxe and spade to the 
winds, picked up his trusty fowling-piece, whistled up 
his dogs, took his amiable wife and two children with 
him, and turning his back on Dalhousie Settlement left 
it at once and forever. As has been stated, he found 
his way to Grand Manan, and located at Deep Cove. If 
ever there was a truly loyal subject to the British Gov- 
ernment, and they can be counted by millions, Daniel 
McLaughlin was one. He was proud of the name of 
"British soldier." In fact his whole bearing was mili- 
tary. His common attitude was as if in the ranks and 
on parade. To see him was to know that he had been a 
soldier. It was an unfortunate day for the wild sea-fowl 
that visited and frequented the waters around Grand 
Manan when the Halifax artilleryman came too, for his 
aim was almost and ever an unerring one. He loved 
his trusty gun, -and doted over it with the fondness of a 
mother for her lost child. 

The writer would here remark that the first and only 
pistol he ever owned, carried, or used, was given him, 
when quite a young boy, by Daniel McLaughlin. His 
son Daniel became a thorough seaman, and has com- 
manded large ships from time to. time between San 
Francisco, New York, Boston and other American ports 
and Europe. Another son, he to whom the writer is 
indebted for much material for the present history of 
the island, is the keeper of Gannet Rock light, and the 
eldest son is the present keeper of Head Harbour light 



24 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



on Campobello. The youngest son is settled at Seal 
Gove, and has much of the warm-hearted friendliness of 
his father. His widow, that faithful wife and affection- 
ate mother, resides with her son Walter ; and although 
the rosy cheek and the coal black hair of her youthful 
days have been furrowed and whitened by length of 
years, yet the kind old lady never wearies 'in deeds of 
hospitality and attention to strangers. She has two m 
daughters married and settled on the island, one in 
Eastport, Me., and one in Massachusetts. The hus- 
band and father, having fought life's battle, is at rest. 
It is well. Our friends, they are not dead, but sleep. 

It may not be uninteresting to the reader to take a 
pen excursion at this stage of our history of Grand 
Manan to a few of the islets adjacent thereto, and form- 
ing a part of the parish. Nearly opposite Seal Cove, 
and a mile or two distant, an islet of considerable size, 
called Inner Wood Island, forms quite an extensive 
defense from southerly winds to Seal Cove. Outside 
this island lies another, of smaller area, known as Outer 
Wood Island.* They were first settled by a man called 
Gerralil, and subsequently the inner island became the 
property of William Boss, who it is said put a man by 
the name of William Green in charge. John Eoss 
owned the Island of Grand Harbour vicinity, and 
aftervvards left the island and resided in St. John City, 
where he died. He lived, and died as he lived, a 
bachelor ; and as one of their sisters married a Thomas, 
whose son Joseph became a resident at Whale Cove, the 
heirs of William Eoss, after the lapse of years, began to 
institute their claim of heirship in that island ; but as 
Eoss had never disturbed the occupant, nor exacted rent, 
Green remained in peaceable possession until he died ; 
and after his death his sons continued to hold the 
property by possession, and so became not only the 
occupants but owners of that valuable island, without 
money and without price. 

Inner Wood Island is now divided in ownership be- 
tween two families, Green and Wilcox — or rather Greens 
and Wilcoxes, as there is a plurality. Like the French 
Canadians, they shut out, as by a Chinese wall, all 
others from participating in any share or lot or part of 
the land. The land is of very good quality where tilled, 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick, 



25 



and a large part of it is covered with spruce and birch, 
which prove useful for fencing and fuel ; but were there 
no standing wood, there could be no difficulty in obtain- 
ing from the shore at high water-mark and above it 
abundance of drift-wood, as the supply seems inexhaust- 
ible. 

Grass grows luxuriantly, and generally proves a 
heavy crop of hay. Oxen, cows and sbeep have happy 
times on those islands. The oxen grow fat and strong 
from their calf-hood, having little or nothing to do ; the 
cows go and come as they please, with grass to their 
knees in summer, and hay plenty in winter. 

The sheep are as wise as it is possible for sheep to be 
in tbeir day and generation. They have sheltered nooks 
at all parts of the islands, and no matter which way the 
wind blows, the hard-headed old father of the flock leads 
off for a lea retreat ; and blow high or blow low, those 
harmless ones are safe from all harm. At low water 
they march over the rocks, slippery with sea-weed, with 
th« steadiness of goats climbing cliffs, and feed on some 
kind of particular sea-weed with a zest and a relish 
equal to an epicurean seated at his viands. The owners 
of those sheep say that they would keep fat through the 
winter without any other food but that which they get 
among the rocks at low water. Those are the sheep 
that need no shepherd — nor care for sheepfold built by 
man. No wild beast to destroy, nor even dog to annoy, 
they live to old age — those that are not sold to butchers 
— at peace with themselves and their only neighbours 
the sea-gulls. 

Mentioning sea-gulls reminds us of a singular habit 
they have. Like all water-fowl, webfooted, out unlike 
all webfoo ted- fowl, those sea-gulls frequenting the outer 
islands, and making them their homesteads, build their 
nests, like crow T s, in th§ trees. It is strange, almost unac- 
countably strange ; and the only cause assigned for it is 
that their nests among the rocks were continually robbed 
by those who would rather steal eggs than buy them ; 
and the poor gulls, after long and serious consultation, 
concluded to do as never webfooted-bird ever did before ; 
and so build their nests, and lay their eggs, and hatch 
their gull-chicks, high up on a tree among the limbs ! 
The truth of the sea-gull thus building its nest on a tree, 



26 Bay of Funcly Islands and Islets, 



is asserted as a fact by the residents of the islands. What 
a creature must a human creature be, when even a wild 
sea-fowl has to resort to means at variance with its 
natural instincts, to escape the rapacity, the ruthless - 
ness, the cruelty, the raiding propensity, the inhumanity 
of man to gull ! Yea, even 4 'Man's inhumanity to man. 
makes countless thousands mourn. " 

A small group of five small islets, or islands, lie to the 
southward and eastward of the Wood Isles, at a mile or 
two distant. They are generally termed Three Islands. 
The largest of the group is known as Kent's Island — 
having been first settled by Captain John Kent, whose 
son, Jonathan Kent, was, at one time, keeper of the 
Gannet Rock light, of whom more will be said on 
another page. The names of those five small islands 
are Kent's Island, Sheep Island, Hay Island, and the 
two smallest in area called Green Islands. There are 
some spots of good tillage on the first named, and ex- 
cellent pasture for sheep. There are two rocky islets, 
called Green Island and the White Horse, lying directly 
south of Outer Wood Island — one standing, as it were, 
at each end of it, like ocean sentinels, to guard the 
passage into Seal Cove. 

Gannet Rock seems deserving of a more extended 
notice. This noted rock bears from it to the south-west 
head of Grand Manan a north-north-west course : 
distance Q\ miles. It rear3 its head defiantly above the 
stormy waves of the bay ; and, as far as stony head and 
heart can take delight, appears to preside over the 
fearfully dangerous shoals and ledges w r ithin its watery 
domain with the pride and the destructive pleasure of a 
Nero ! The Indians called it Menaskook. It is a 
concrete of flint, pebble-stone and sand, conglomerated 
into a solid mass, forming an acre, more or le3S, in area. 
It has been the scene of many a dread disaster. It has 
its death-record as well as the Goodwin Sands or Sable 
Island. The moaning winds and the monotone of the 
surging sea, even when the raging storm is sleeping and 
at rest, seem to sing in plaintive wail a requiem for 
the lost ones, who, far from the old homestead in their 
native land, met death in its direful form at Gannet 
Rock, whelmed in the angry sea. But let them sleep 
on on their ocean bed. 



In Charlotte County. Xeiv Brunswick. 



27 



The sea will have to yield up from its great grave of 
many fathoms deep the forms of those, once so dearly 
loved on earth, to meet again and re-unite where nodis- 
tructive elements can ever separate them more. It is a 
happy thought, this resurrected meeting and greeting of 
century-separated dear ones ! 

One of the first shipwrecks, authentically related, as 
having occurred at Gannet Rock, was a brig bound from 
Boston to the River St. John, N. B., in the year L759. 
There were, independent of officers and crew, nearly one 
hundred persons, intending settlers in New Brunswick. 
A number were drowned, whose bodies were never re- 
covered. The survivors, passengers and crew, after 
temporarily repairing the only boat saved, landed at 
Deep Cove, where they remained until the next spring, 
when they were taken to L'Etang in a small sloop. 

In 1831, the brig Rosemont, bound for St. John, 
X. B., with a general cargo, met her doom at Gannet 
Rock : and in November 18-15, the barque Mary, of and 
from London, was also wrecked here, and the second 
mate drowned. 

It was in the year 1881 that the commerce of St. John 
City having largely increased, and, as a consequence, 
the shipping of the port increased in equal ratio, that 
the enterprising merchants deemed it necessary, for the 
protection of the commercial interests, to crown the head 
of Gannet Rock with a shining light at night. The 
necessity of the case calling for action, the citizens of 
St. John City, with a business activity (for which they 
are noted up to date, and will probably as long as Fort 
Howe looks down upon them, or Hazen's Crows Nest 
smiles in approval), began the work of erection as a 
Government work. It seemed to the Gannets an undue 
interference with time's vested rights to them ; for 
thousands of sea-fowl had been the undisturbed posses- 
sors of Menaskook for centuries. Poor Gannets ! 
Dispossessed and summarily of your fair inheritance, 
at once and forever. 

The name John Purvis is identified with Gannet Rock 
lighthouse as the builder; while Joseph Hogg merits 
mention as the one who put up the lantern, or light- 
room ; and, to make the trio complete, a Captain Lamb 
paid due respect to Christmas-eve, A. d. 1831 3 by 



28 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



lighting his lamps, as the first lighthouse keeper, on 
that once celebrated home of the Gannets. It was a 
welcome sight to the sailor navigating the Bay of Fundy. 
The wild scream of the sea-gull had departed, and the 
human voice took its place, and the art of man 
triumphed. May its luminous gleamings never grow 
less. 

For four years our favourite Lamb was monarch of 
Gannet Bock. Ever tender and gentle as a lamb, he 
became pensive on his isolated location — weary of the 
barren rock and its stormy surroundings ; so much so 
that, in 1835, he got transferred to a smaller rock off 
Quaco Head; but as it is near the mainland, the City 
St. John, and enjoying facilities for participating in 
society's social enjoyments, no wonder he felt pleased to 
leave the Gannet, where neither spring nor summer, 
the gentle rain nor the warm sunshine can vegetate a 
blade of grass or any green thing ! A Mr. Miller 
succeeded Captain Lamb with an assistant. Both 
Miller, the principal, and his assistant were drowned 
in the summer of 1837, when Jonathan Kent, son of 
old Captain John Kent, already mentioried, received the 
appointment, remaining in charge until October, a. d. 
1843, at which period he resigned for an inshore station. 
Henry McLaughlin, the present keeper of Campobello 
light at Head Harbour, succeeded Mr. Kent. The 
successor of Mr. Kent kept the situation until the year 
1853, when he, too, resigned for an inshore station. 
Walter B. McLaughlin, brother of the then keeper, 
entered upon the duty on the rock; and having been 
an assistant previously, from 1845 to 1853, was well 
instructed in the performance of the responsible care 
and duty of keeper on such an exposed situation, one 
ever surrounded with danger. In 1845, a stone wall of 
immense thickness was erected around the tower, in 
order to protect the erection from the fury of the great 
storms so prevalent in the Bay of Fundy. Of the 
respective keepers of the Gannet Eock light, none, as 
the above record shows, kept it half the length of years 
that the present keeper has.. True, he has had assist- 
ants from time to time ; so had they ; but as principal, 
he must ever keep watch and ward over this isolated 
rock's light. Mr. Walter B efficiency 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 29 



'"and zeal as lighthouse keeper and fishery officer are too 
well known and too w T ell appreciated by the Government 
departments to require any additional credit ; but yet, 
in penning a history of Gannet Rock light, his name 
merits honorable mention, and we would not withhold 
it. 

Grand Manan up to the year 1854 remained singu- 
larly exempt from toads, frogs, serpents, or snakes — 
not even the sharp bark of the fox was ever heard in 
its deep valleys or on its hill-tops. The island was as 
highly favoured as was Ireland, when the good and the 
great Saint Patrick banished, in his righteous indig- 
nation and by virtue of the power in him vested: 

"Toad, serpent and snake 
From bramble and brake." 

Our Gannet Rock lighthouse keeper took a different 
view of such things altogether ; for to him belongs the 
praise or the blame of introducing that ugly creature, the 
toad, to the island. And, whether wittingly or un- 
wittingly, it seems a remarkable coincidence that the 
introduction of the toad by Mr. McLaughlin was on the 
12th of July — the day celebrated by Orangemen, in 
remembrance of the Battle of the Boyne ! Not content 
with peopling the hitherto toadless island with toads 
he followed it up, by bringing over from the mainland 
foxes and frogs in August 1874. It does seem strange 
that the importer of toads should have permitted over a 
score of years to roll on, before he turned his attention, 
with paternal affection, to the frog and the fox ! For want 
of better data, it can only be inferred that he wished to 
provide the islanders with cheap music by night to sing 
them to sleep, after the manner of oriental princes, and 
to raise young Reynards for the trapper's trap and 
sportsman's gun. Although his stock of toads only 
numbered four all told, yet so prodigiously did they 
increase, that in less than twelve years they were found 
on all parts of the island ; and, when the rate of travel 
of his toadship is taken into consideration, it must have 
required a long time to hop the toad-hop from the 
vicinity of Deep Cove at Southern Head to Eel Brook 
at North Head, over twenty miles, attending to toad-pro- 
creation in the meantime. 

John Wilson, Esq., of Chamcook, Parish of St. 

5 



30 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



Andrews, brought over deer to the island about the 
year 1845, and they multiplied rapidly. Indians, and 
whites as well, killed them at all seasons of the year, 
until by Legislative enactment this wholesale slaughter 
has been prohibited. And yet the stealthy Indian, as 
hungry as a panther for venison, will occasionally shoot 
down a deer, and paddle away the meat to Pleasant 
Point, near Eastport, Me. 

The American hare (rabbit) was introduced here from 
Nova Scotia by William Green — the same person, who 
so fortunately, became proprietor of Inner Wood Island, 
near Seal Cove, by being put on it as occupant-in-charge 
by good old William Ross, as already related. About a 
quarter of a century has passed away since the rabbit 
obtained firm foothold on Grand Manan soil ; and, like 
the toad, they are now numerous on all parts of the 
island. 

Haying detained the reader the while at the southern 
end of the island and its adjacent isles, it is necessary 
to move along and tarry a brief hour or two at Grand 
Harbour, with its contiguous White Head and smaller 
isles adjacent to it. 

Grand Harbour only requires more depth, sufficient 
depth of water, at all times of tide, to make it deserving 
of the name "Grand" in its widest use. The view sea- 
ward is delightful, and the harbour is long and broad 
enough to receive quite a fleet, did not the tide at low 
water leave such a breadth of beach. It is an irremedi- 
able obstacle to vessels of large tonnage as a desired 
port for ingress and egress at all times of tide, and yet 
a considerable trade is carried on at Grand Harbour. 
Isaac Newton, Esq., prosecutes a large share of the 
mercantile business of the island, has a convenient wharf 
extending from his store, and large-sized schooners load 
and discharge cargo without difficulty. The handsome 
and large residence, built by Mr. Newton a few years 
ago, and costing some three thousand dollars, will bear 
a favourable comparison with many a wealthy merchant's 
mansion, of suburban elegance, of architectural style and 
finish. There are several fine houses at Grand Harbour. 
Turner Wooster, Esq., of Her 's Customs, 

owns and occupies a very fine c )f buildings. 

Allen Guptill, John D. Guptill, a 3rs, including 



In Charlotte County, Neiv Brunswick. *31 

Mr. John Daggett, have convenient and tasty dwellings ; 
and the evidences are all around there, that plenty for 
man and beast is the order of the day. 

There is a new schoolhouse here, which, having been 
recently erected, is a most creditable acquisition to 
Grand Harbour. 

The Free Will Baptists have a neat place of worship, 
and the congregation numbers, perhaps, the major part 
of the residents of the harbour and vicinity. 

The Episcopal Church is a stone edifice, and the Rev. 
W. S. Covert is the present missionary ; whose urbanity 
and kindness towards the people, generally, have won 
him many friends outside the people of his charge He 
takes a lively interest in the cause of temperance, and 
lectures or debates on the platform with an earnestness 
only surpassed by his pulpit ministrations. 

The first Episcopal Church at Grand Harbour was a 
wooden structure ; and of the circumstances attending 
its destruction, we would fain draw a veil over them; 
but, as narrating events connected with the island's 
history, the withholding of the particulars would be suf- 
j ficient to subject the writer to holding a pusillanimous 
pen — a charge not intended to be deserved. 

Regretfully, then (from a sermon preached by the then 
Rector, Rev. John Dunn, on the 13th October 1839 at 
Grand Harbour, on the 15th at North Head, and on the 
. 16th at Seal Cove — a copy of which sermon, in print, is 
now before the writer), the following particulars are here 
presented. It may be neither uninteresting nor un- 
necessary to quote from a "statement of the proceedings 
arising from the burning of the church/ ' as follows : 

"Whereas, on the night of Wednesday, the 9th of 
October 1839, at about 12 o'clock, the whole interior of 
St. Paul's Church in this parish was discovered to be in 
flames, which in about one hour consumed the building; 
and, whereas, certain circumstances (particularly the 
suspending in front of the church, from a triangle, a 
figure, in which w T as found a paper, containing 
language which betokens premeditated malevolence 
and hostility against the Bishop of the Diocese, against 
the Rector of this parish in particular, and four other 
persons of this county) prove it to be the work of an 
incendiary; its destruction also attempted by fire at 



32 Bay of Funcly Islands and Islets, 

: ; ^ 

Easter in the previous year, 1888, prove that the burn- 
ing of the church with the atrociously aggravated 
circumstances attending it, demand the expression of 
an unqualified abhorrence of the deed and its perpe- 
trators." 

The above, as quoted from the statement, is sufficient, 
without copying it entire. The statement thus ends its 
closing paragraphs : "A list was attached to the fore- 
going, containing the names of the wardens and vestry, 
fourteen in number, with 124 others. 

"With the church were consumed the gown, surplice, 
books and pall. Within the week the offerings of female 
friends, amounting to nearly thirteen pounds, were 
presented to the minister for the purpose of replacing 
his gown and surplice. And ere the ashes of the ruined 
church were scarcely cold, a subscription paper was 
opened for the erection of a new church, which within 
three days embraced 125 names, amounting to over 
two hundred and sixty pounds. 

"And the last and not least interesting circum- 
stance, showing the zeal and warm feeling which this 
most deplorable event has produced .among all classes 
of persons in this parish, was the presenting a subscrip- 
tion list from forty Sabbath- school children, with their 
collection, amounting to about twenty shillings. 

"'(Signed) John Dunn, Rector. 

^Philip Newton, j Wardens." 
Thos. Redmond, J 

The afflicted pastor evinces so much of the spirit of 
Saint Paul under trial and affliction, that it would not 
be doing justice, under the circumstances, to leave this 
painful subject without presenting several extracts, as 
elucidating the spirit of the pastor on the occasion — 
selecting for his text part of the 9th verse of the 6th 
chapter of Micah, which reads thus : "Hear ye the rod 
and w 7 ho hath appointed it." 

In the opening paragraph of his discourse, the grieved 
pastor said : "I stand before you, under circumstances 
so highly aggravated in their nature, that I believe the 
record of the Christian Church furnishes but few, and 
in this country no parallel. 

"This is a picture of extreme hi of heart, per- 



In Charlotte County, New Brunsivick. 38 



verseness and rebellion against the Almighty. Selfish- 
ness, some imaginary pleasure, or unholy gratification, 
are the sources of all vice and crime, and such as are 
actuated by these base motives can scarcely be restrained 
except by Divine judgments." 

The preacher, while progressing with his discourse, 
expatiated on the instructions contained in his text, 
applying them to those under bereavement by the loss of 
their Church, and impressing them with God's dealings 
with His people ; that afflictions are sometimes permitted 
to overtake and visit them, as reproofs and corrections 
for sin, lukewarmness and backsliding. One sentence, 
cited from the sermon in the preacher's own wtfrds, will 
suffice on this part of it. 

"And whether God afflict His creatures in love or in 
wrath, whether He afflict them for instruction or for 
correction, our first duty under the rod is to become 
sensible of His justice, and that He willeth our good." 

After thus deducing arguments from the text, for the 
inculcation of pious resignation, humility and penitence 
under the trying dispensation, the preacher approaches 
the subject of the deed and the perpetrators of it in this 
wise: 

"And what can I say? What need I gay? Your 
eyes behold a deed has been done, brethren, at our very 
doors, before our eyes, at the bare hearing of which the 
heart of every Christian man and woman must sink 
within them ; — a deed the sight of which, in the hour of 
midnight darkness, was terrific and appalling beyond 
description, which none can fully imagine, but those 
who beheld that devouring flame, which completely 
filled those consecrated walls ; who saw those naked 
beams, and watched that tower, whole and unscorched, 
slowly and solemnly inclining and settling through the 
rafters into the furnace kindled by the sacrilegious 
hand of man ! Truly, it fell as if it were saying to its 
destroyer, who might have still been within sight of it, 
'Look at me, behold me falling, and let it never be 
effaced from your vision ; let it descend with you to your 
grave, and rise with you to judgment.' " 

And now the preacher waxes warm while on this part 
of his discourse. He feels, as it were, the whole weight 
of this diabolical midnight act pressing upon his 



34 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



troubled soul ; and like one of the olden prophets, 
zealous for the Lord of Hosts, and the honour of His 
name, and the sacredness of His temple on earth, thus 
proceeds : 

"A deed has been done — what shall we call it? 
Against whom hag the offence been committed ? Against 
the living God — the Witness of all deeds, open and 
secret, against the Majesty of Heaven the attack has 
been made ! Tthe God whom Christians worship, has 
been insulted and profaned. And, thought, fearful 
and alarming, is he among us, that hardened man, who 
neither fears God nor regards man, he who did this 
deed now composing a part of this congregation ? If he 
is within the sound of my voice, surely he must possess 
the spirit of a fiend, else bis blood must chill in his 
veins. God forbid, my Christian hearers, that our- 
selves, our families, and our beloved sanctuary should 
have been within the influence of such a pestilence." 
After indulging in such anathema of righteous indig- 
nation, the preacher turns his weeping eyes towards the 
scene of the sacrilegious fire ; and, touching plaintively 
the tender theme of woe and bereavement, says : 

"The altar before which some have knelt to receive 
from the highest order of our ministry, and renewed their 
baptismal covenant ; the altar around which husband 
and wife, parent and child, have knelt side by side, have 
devoutly received the emblems of the body and blood of 
their dying Saviour, have eaten and drunk thereof, and 
had their souls nourished by faith, as their bodies are by 
food ; that desk, from which has ascended the sacrifice 
of praise and prayer ; that pulpit, from which so many 
sermons have been delivered w r ith the view of instilling 
the pure doctrines and. salutary truths of the blessed 
Gospel into the hearts of the hearers ; and, lastly, those 
walls, which have enclosed the mortal remains of those 
near and dear to many of you — these, brethern, are the 
objects which you have lost, which were rendered so 
valuable and dear from various associations. 

"That edifice, consecrated to the worship of God. 
What has become of it ? Over its ashes you sigh, you 
mourn, you shed the silent tear ; that temple, with its 
altar, its bible, books of devotion, and its vestments, 
have fallen a sacrifice in the space of one short hour, to 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 35 

I 

the sacrilegious incendiary." And now the preacher in 
his concluding paragraphs, turns to the re-building of 
another house, wherein to worship the God of their 
fathers. The appeal, it seems, was not in vain. With 
the zeal of an Apostle, and the courage of a martyr, he 
says : 

"If the friends of the church will hold up my hands, 
by their cheerful, sincere and consistent countenance ; 
by their united and earnest prayers to their Heavenly 
Father, and by using their own exertions (unless I 
fall myself a prey to the midnight incendiary or as- 
sassin), and if God continues my health, in twelve 
months from the night in which the blaze and smoke of 
our late church ascended to the heavens, the incense of 
prayer and praise shall ascend from the altar of another 
church, to that God who giveth and who taketh, who 
ruleth in the armies of Heaven, and amidst the children 
of men." 

The preacher's hands were "holden up," the "friends 
of the church" did lend cheerful aid, they did "use their 
own exertions," and God did continue to the pastor 
health, and did bless the efforts made to rebuild another 
edifice to His worship, and the preacher's resolve was 
fulfilled, and his heart was gladdened, at seeing the top- 
stone of the present stone church at Grand Harbour 
brought forth with joy and thanksgiving. Thus endeth 
the account of the burning of the church on Grand 
Manan, October 9th, 1839. 

It is refreshing to turn from such a painful theme 
and description as the one just related, to speak of the 
present improved condition of Grand Harbour, in com- 
mon with all parts of the island, as compared with it in 
its earlier periods. It is only a very few years since 
lobster factories became a business. The first opening 
of this branch of fishing industry was the work of Mr. 
John Cook, who had previously followed the profession 
of a druggist in Carleton, St. John. It was about the 
year 1858, some eighteen years ago. His factory was 
near the residence of Philip Newton, Esq., of whom he 
bought the privilege, built a dwelling-house, erected 
suitable buildings for the canning of lobsters, and gave 
employment to many hands. Those canned lobsters 
were exported to Scotland, via St. John, N. B., and the « 



86 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



business becoming remunerative, Mr. Cook in a few 
years accumulated quite a handsome competence, re- 
paired the losses of an unsuccessful drug-shop, and 
returned from the island to Carleton, where he enjoyed 
up to the time of his death the fruits of his industry on 
Grand Manan in the lobster trade. 

One of hie sons, following in the footsteps of his 
father, entered into the same business on Deer Island- 
but not with that success attending it which his more 
judicious parent experienced. Another son, having 
married the daughter of Cochran Craig, Esq., undertook 
the business on this island ; but not prospering in it, 
abandoned the lobsters and opened a photograph saloon 
at Woodward's Cove. Not succeeding, according to his 
expectations, in dealing with the "human face divine,' 9 
he soon disposed of his materials, and emigrated, 
whence he had come, to Carleton, St. John, N. B. He 
was a very unassuming young man — mild as a lamb, 
gentle and kind — too gentle to throw live lobsters into 
a boiling cauldron. Mr. Cook, the ex-druggist, having 
thus introduced the cooking and canning of lobsters, and 
having proved it under his management a success, it was 
not to be expected that the business would be allowed to 
die out; consequently, in a short time, another lobster 
factory was started at Seal Cove by Bradford & Hartt, 
which gave employment to many and became a source 
of profit to the proprietors. A firm in Boston, Under- 
wood & Co., having learned of the successful operations, 
felt a desire to have a hand in the trade ; and having 
purchased a lease-privilege from Turner Wooster, 
Esq., which was admirably situated for carrying it on 
extensively, this Bostonian activity soon erected a 
cluster of buildings, outstripping all previous facilities. 

Mr. Mitchell, a Scotchman, the superintendent and 
agent, became much esteemed ; and lobsters, in tons of 
weight, were brought to Wooster's Wharf at Grand 
Harbour to exchange their green jackets for red, and 
then stripped by the nimble hands of youths and maidens, 
pressed into tin cans, and being hermetically sealed, 
packed in boxes and sent off to satisfy the almost uni- 
versal desire of the lover of shell-fish with canned 
lobsters. Mr. Mitchell gives employment to four tin- 
smiths, twenty-four men and boys, and fifteen girls, 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 37 



total fortv-three hands in the factory. Until the advent 
of Mr. John Cook no idea was entertained of the im- 
mense numbers of lobsters frequenting the shores of 
Grand Man an. It would seem almost incredible that 
such vast multitudes of them were in the waters around 
the island ; but the "traps" settled the matter, and the 
rocks and ledges, the coves and inlets proved the harvest 
fields, from which was fished up by the trap-system 
those delicious greenbacks which, by a remarkable coin- 
cidence, average betimes 80 cents to the hundred lbs. — 
just about the value of a greenback dollar. 

The lobster factory at<xrand Harbour is yet in progress, 
and probably will not be discontinued until the supply 
is exhausted, which may not be in the present day and 
generation, nor for centuries. In one season the Grand 
Harbour factory received 625,559 lbs. of live lobsters, 
and canned from them 125,865 lbs. 

The shells of the lobsters are carted aw r ay from the 
factory and spread over grass-ground, and prove very 
valuable as a top-dressing fertilizer. True, w T hile sub- 
ject to the decaying process, olfactorily considered, one 
w r ould hardly feel strongly inclined to partake of the 
meat late encased in such a shell. Sometimes the 
shells are spread over the ground and ploughed in ; 
either way, those shells are excellent for crops. 

Grand Harbour has many of the means within itself 
to form a neat, pretty village, were the houses and other 
buildings more compact — for instance, its church, meet- 
ing house, schoolhouse, customs house, magistrate's 
office, stores and lobster factory. It lacks a black- 
smith's shop, hotel, cordwainer's shop, &c, to fill up 
the village requirements. The schoolhouse is the 
best on the island. Its schoolrooms are on the 
ground floor, where they ought to be. As it is, 
however, Grand Harbour, as being located at nearly 
the central part of the island, must command a promi- 
nent position. 

The customs office originated here during Sir John 
A. Macdonald's premiership, and while our present 
Lieut. Governor, Hon. S. L. Tilley, w r as Minister of 
Customs at Ottawa. The appointment of customs 
officer was offered to Isaac Newton, Esq., who thought 
fit to refuse it, and the present officer, Turner Wooster, 
e 



38 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



Esq., having accepted it, keeps himself in good fellow- 
ship both with the people and the department. 

The islanders, from its first and earliest history, had 
bought and sold and traded with a freedom from 
restraint which their peculiarly isolated position fully 
justified, and which seemed to every thinking mind as 
meet and right they should. Following the laborious, 
precarious and hazardous vocation of fishing, it seemed 
ungenerous and severe to compel the poor fisherman to 
pay a tax on his flour, pork, molasses, tea, cotton, and 
the various other articles of food and clothing — even to 
the pipe in his mouth, the tobacco to fill it, and the . 
match to light it. 

Grand Manan, situate as it is miles away from the 
mainland — shut-out for a great part of the summer 
from a sight of it, and in the winter separated for days 
and weeks by the fearful storms which sweep over the 
bay, thus debarred from participating in the various 
facilities enjoyed by residents on the mainland — to tax 
those islanders, or to saddle their overburdened backs 
with a customs officer, to make them pay tribute to 
Caesar, was not thought of until the confederation of the 
provinces. But as oar Dominion of Canada is increas- 
ing in population — its public works and its salaried 
officers increasing — taxation must needs increase too. 
From the Governor General, down to the poor char- 
woman who dusts the desks of witless scribes in the 
Governmental offices, money, money, money must be 
paid ; and as the people of this great Dominion must 
pay the money to the taxgatherers, to this great end the 
people of the islands in the Bay of Fundy must pay too. 
And Money sings: 

"In the nation's halls I proudly stand, 
For I hold the price in my good right hand 

Of member, minister, senator, all — 

I buy them up, both great and small. 
I buy their honor, manhood and truth — 
They'd sell what they call their souls in sooth. 
And their empty lives at my feet would fling, 
For I am Money, and money is King." 



ider ex- 



It is their loyalty that keeps them passive unc 
treme pressure ; and although those islands possess 
unequalled facilities for landing goods of all kinds 
clandestinely, yet so conscientious are the people, gener- 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 39 
v _ — . 

ally, especially the traders, that when goods are landed 

at any part of the Island (Grand Manan") the importer 

starts off for Woodward's Cove and the "receipt of 

custom" with the speed of Weston, the walker, or 

Goldsmith Maid, the trotter! The islanders will 

neither eat nor drink nor wear any contraband articles. 

So are they the truly loyal subjects of the Dominion of 

Canada. Let the reader, if not an islander, go and do 

likewise. 

woodward's cove. 

Leaving Grand Harbour and arriving at Woodward's 
Cove, quite a village-looking settlement is here. Here, 
is Small's large house, where food can be had by the 
hungry, lodging for the sleepy, drink for the thirsty. 
Here are two blacksmith shops, a schoolhouse and a 
temple. Here are several stores, well filled with a 
general assortment of provisions, clothing, and "stores" 
of all kinds to meet the wants of the fishermen. Only 
three or four years ago Mr. John Fraser, of St. Stephen, 
who had been engaged a long time in that town in 
mercantile business, relinquished his extensive trade 
there and came to Grand Manan and opened a trade at 
Woodward's Cove. Mr. Fraser is a remarkable man- 
totally blind, having lost both eyes about twenty years 
ago and an arm by blasting a large stone in St. Stephen. 
He took up trading on a small scale, but by persever- 
ance, good business tact, and an indomitable resolution 
to succeed, prospered under the smile of kind Providence, 
and became a well-to-do-trader. He has purchased real 
estate at the cove, put up and carries on a large trade 
in a large building. Besides, has erected smoke-houses, 
built a wharf, a unique schooner — the E. A. Fraser — and 
made other improvements. Why he elected the island 
in preference to the commercial metropolis of the Saint 
Croix Eiver, is a domestic, commercial or political 
problem which no one can solve as well as himself. At 
all events, his emigrating here has given an impetus to 
trade at the place of his location which must have a 
beneficial effect long in the future. His son keeps the 
post-office at the cove in his father's store, and that 
of itself is no trifling accommodation to the people of 
the cove and its vicinity. Another large store, well- 



40 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 

filled, is kept by Nelson Small, a naturalized American, 
who came here about the time the southern war was 
raging, who began trading on a small scale ; but by dint 
of perseverance and ingenuity has run the race of com- 
petition successfully with Mr. Fraser. There is also a 
cooper shop at this cove, under the skillful care of an 
industrious man by the name of George Anderson. 

In 1867, quite an exciting scene was witnessed at 
Woodward's Cove. A whale that it seems had become 
exceedingly anxious to breakfast on some nice fat 
herring had quite unwittingly entered within the pre- 
cincts of a brush weir, built for the very purpose of 
catching herring and all such comers. His whaleship, 
once in the weir, and having regaled himself to his 
heart's content, and touching bottom occasionally, began 
to feel apprehensive that all was not right, and so 
turned tail to the village and headed for the deeper 
water's of the bay. The stakes and the brush felt the 
unusual pressure, but refused to give way. He had 
entered as a great intruder, a bold robber, a rapacious 
monster of the deep, and, if possible, must be held in 
durance vile and be made pay the penalty of his 
temerity. The news spread over the island with aston- 
ishing rapidity that a whale was caught in a weir 
at Woodward's Cove and there was more excitement, 
more "hurrying to and fro," than there was in 
"Belgium's capital by night," where fair women and 
brave men had whirled in the voluptuous dance, till 
startled by the war trumpet's blast calling — "to arms, to 
arms!" Our islanders went for the whale on the run from 
many points of the compass. The late Lorenzo Drake made 
for the scene of action with the coolness and yet the 
speed of a regular whalesman. Armed with a harpoon 
— that weapon which art has made the most suitable 
wherewith to pierce the blubber-flesh of this monster 
of the deep, the whale — a large number of people having 
collected, the battle began in terrible earnestness. The 
harpoon struck the whale, he lashed mightily his tail, 
the weir gave way, oars were in play, he made for sea, 
boats gallantly headed him to the shore, where bleeding, 
he breathed no more. This great fish was towed up to 
high water mark at the cove, cut up, and the oil, when 
divided among the stockholders, proved to be quite a 



In Charlotte County, New Brunsivick. 41 



'handsome dividend. This brief fish story is unlike 
many fifth stories — it is true. 

The temple, of which mention has been made, de- 
serves more than a passing notice. It was erected by 
the efforts of a Mr. Cook, Baptist Minister, aided by the 
exertions of the zealous island ladies who are ever 
foremost in all good works. Subsequently it became 
the property of Mr. Joseph Lakeman, of Woodward's 
Cove ; and about that time Elder George Garraty, the 
present pastor of the * 'Christians or Disfeiples- of Christ" 
Church, Duke Street, St. John, N. B., came to the 
island and soon made several converts to his faith, 
among whom was Mr. Lakeman — perhaps the most 
zealous of them all. The temple was dedicated by Elder 
Grarraty, and was afterwards known as Garraty's Temple, 
and by others, and with more propriety, as the Chris- 
tians' Temple. Then another change came o'er, not the 
"spirit of the dream," but the spirit of some of the 
people. Elder Garraty left the island, and a new sect 
arrived — preachers of the Joe Smith creed, professing 
to possess the gift of tongues, power of healing and 
other gifts, such as the prophets and apostles of old 
possessed. Mr. Lakeman now became a convert to this 
religion, and having much natural talent, fair education, 
fluency of speech, a mind enriched by reading, study, and 
a retentive memory, and deeply imbued with pious 
feeling withal, he was a "chosen vessel" among the 
prophet's disciples, and was soon ordained to eldership 
among those Latter Day Saints. The temple now be- 
came known as the Mormon Temple ; but until Elder 
Lakeman embraces polygamy as part of his faith, the 
name Mormon is illegitimate ; and, therefore, in keep- 
ing with its present sectarian position, it may be 
regarded as the Temple of the Saints. Independent of 
the various changes of Elder Joseph Lakeman's religious 
opinions, one opinion is entertained of him by all his 
acquaintances — in kindness, uniformity of moral 
excellence, an untarnished integrity, and good fellowship 
and Christian love and charity towards all mankind, Mr. 
Lakeman has remained unchanged. It would be well 
for Brigham Young and all the Salt Lake Mormons, if 
they could exhibit as unimpeachable a record. 

The temple is a large building, having no outward 



42 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets. 



decorations-^— a plain specimen of the plainest style of 
architecture — unadorned by any paint or paintings 
within or without — and yet its site can hardly he excelled 
on the island. On high ground, about one fourth of a 
mile eastward from the qove village, it overlooks many 
of the smaller islands and a large portion of the Bay of 
Fundy ; and as a central stand-point, the eye sweeps 
around the entire island and the horizon. The belfry is 
in keeping with th« building, and although no bell ever 
sent forth a sound from it to call the church-goers to- 
gether for worship, yet this humble, unassuming cupola 
became the chosen location of a burglar, named Archibald 
Downey, in the latter part of the month of April 1875, 
where he deposited bread, milk, ham, pork, butter, 
dried apples, molasses, together with sundry utensils 
"and articles for bachelor housekeeping in the belfry. 
Downey had chosen a lovely, airy and healthy little 
home for himself: the outlook, too, was delightful; but 
he happened to look out at one time, at the wrong time, 
as will hereafter appear. Having on Saturday night, 
the 24th of April, made a raid on Mr. James Smith, by 
entering his house, and cleaning out the pantry of 
all its eatable contents, this accomplished burglar retired 
to the belfry with his heavy burden of provisions smack- 
ing his lips, doubtless, in anticipation of the rk-h feast 
he w T ould spread for himself on the coming Sabbath — 
perhaps flattering himself with the idea of dining on 
savory me^ts high up in his belfry home, while Elder 
Lakeman would feed his flock with spiritual food below. 
There is not much streteh, if any, of the imagination in 
this, for Downey the burglar was well read and fond of 
reading. Besides, on his examination trial at North 
Head, he stated that on Sunday morning and previously 
he had "got a book up in the belfry, which he read, and 
knew it was a Mormon book/' As a specimen of his 
ready wit, the following may be given. On the magistrate 
asking him how he could see in the darkness of night 
to collect such a variety of articles in Smith's pantry, 
he replied — "By the aid of the elementary light, called 
moon." The Sabbath morning following the robbery, 
and while several men were searching for the robber, 
Downey hearing voices below looked out of his sacred 
storehouse ; and on some one looking up as he looked 



In Charlotte County, Neiv Brunswick. 48 


I down he became 'the observed of the observers. An ascent 
I was soon made to the belfry, and there was the tenant, 
I surrounded with many of the good things of this life, 
t which he had obtained without money, but not without 
• price — the price of incarceration — as having been arrest- 
ed, tried and convicted, he was sent to the penitentiary 
for two years and six months. Thus en,deth the reading 
of the temple. 

There is a brisk trade at almost all seasons of the 
year here ; indeed, its central location, as well as Grand 
i Harbour, is admirably situated to command a large 
share of custom. White Head Island, having quite a 
large and an increasing population, contributes largely 
to the trade of Woodward's Gove. It is sometimes called 
Fisher's Cove, as "Old Squire Fisher," as he was 
familiarly termed, long resided and died there. 

His son, John Fisher, w T as born on Grand Manan and 
is well known and highly respected in Eastport, Me., as 
proprietor of an express agent office and other business 
affairs. He cherishes a warm feeling for his native 
island and is ever ready and pleased to attend to any 
' requests from any of the people of the island who require 
his counsel, direction or services. 

A grandson of Old Squire Fisher, a few years ago, 
left Eastport, Me., and established a henery on High 
Duck Island, which had been the property of his grand- 
father. Young Alexander, perhaps, in his henery 
enterprise has accomplished more real good than his 
namesake of olden time, who rode the conqueror of 
battle fields, trampling the gory victims of his mad 
ambition beneath the iron-shod hoofs of his proud 
charger, Butephalus. Our Alexander, in keeping with 
the name of his island, has added ducks to his poultry 
yards, and the crowing of roosters, the cackling of hens, 
the quacking of ducks and ganders and geese make 
quite a lively scene and a noisy one withal on High 
Duck Island. The multitudinous throats of Alexander's 
feathered bipeds have completely drowned the screams of 
the gulls around High and Low Duck Islands, which 
bloodless victory is worthy of all praise-; the ducks 
holding high carnival on High Duck Island. 



44 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



WHITE HEAD. 

Of White Head much could be written. It is 
peculiarly situated, geographically, with the main island 
of Grand Manan. For about two hours before low water, 
and at the first two hours flood nearly, access can be 
had to White H«ad without boat — the ledges and sand- 
bars permitting travel on foot, although there are narrow 
places whe v e the water runs shoal and somewhat swiftly, 
but presenting no greai; obstacle to a safe and speedy 
tramp from Grand Manan to White Head. At all other 
times of tide, boats must bemused ; and then White 
Head is an island, being completely surrounded by 
water; but before low water and at the first of the flood, 
as already stated, the ledges and sand-bars form a little 
isthmus ; when the White Head island that was, is, for 
the time being, a peninsula. Such is the anomalous 
geographical peculiarity of White Head of Grand 
Manan. 

The residents of White Head are under many disad- 
yantages, which the inhabitants of the main island 
enjoy ; and of them all, the want of proper mail accom- 
modation is not the least. The people there feel strongly 
the need of a regular postal delivery of newspapers and 
letters ; and although Isaac Newton, Esq., of Grand 
Harbour and parties at Woodward's Cove are always only 
too happy in efforts to forward papers, letters, parcels, 
&c, to them, yet the forwarding is precarious and 
uncertain ; and even when conveyed by one of them- 
selves, they may be taken to a house far from their 
destination, on White Head, remaining for days until 
chance takes them on. It has been mooted from time 
to time, to stir up action on the part of the postal 
powers that be, towards having direct and regular 
postal communication with White Head, in common 
with other parts of the island ; and as hope, if not too 
long delayed, is as an anchor to the soul, so the people 
hope on, in cherished anticipation that the White Head 
of Grand Manan will be duly reverenced, and not only 
reverenced but accommodated with a post-office. Then 
will the silver-sprinkled head of the Post-Ofiice Inspector 
be honored by all the White Headers, and mutual 
happiness exist. 




' The principal fishing at White Head is the herring 
fishing in weirs. Those weir-herring are principally all 
smoked, and, consequently, the preparation of so many 
thousand of boxes of smoked herring, from the time they 
are taken out of the weirs, all shining and silvery-scaled, 
until they are ready for the gridiron, keeps many hands 
busily and profitably employed. 

There is a Free Will Baptist meeting house here and 
also a schoolhouse. The people, generally, are moral, 
| honest and industrious. Circumstances occasionally of 
| an unpleasant nature occur, but, in praise of White 
| Head, it may be said ihat they originate chiefly with 
fishermen and others who visit the place only for a|me, 
and not the permanent residents. 

This state of things may be regarded as an index to 
other parts of Grand Man an — indeed, to the island and 
its islands generally. The introduction of many new- 
comers have introduced as well, many unpleasant 
episodes in the history of Grand Manan at the present 
| clay ; but as an increasing population ever adds its bad 
| with its good, arid too frequently in corresponding ratio, 
to keep the field wholly free from the thistle, brier, 
and hurtful weed cannot be, It is too much to be 
expected. 

White Head obtained its name, doubtless, from its 
white appearance, which bears some slight resemblance 
to the white, chalky cliffs of Albion. Viewed at a dis- 
tance from a deck at sea, it presents a dreary and 
uninviting aspect, and to a mariner a dread, with a wish 
that no fortuitous event may ever cast him on its grim- 
looking rocks. \ nearer approach, however, soon dispels 
those unfavorable impressions, and the verdure of little 
fertile spots, comfortable cottages, smoke-houses, and 
j the merry laugh of childhood ringing out like the sweet 
chiming of Sabbath-bells, the lowing of cattle, the 
1 bleating of sheep, and the numerous white sails of 
i sharp-shaped boats, dotting every nook, cove and inlet, 
| fills the heart of the weather-beaten tar with thoughts of 
former days and boyhood scenes in his own land ; and, 
| heaving a sigh of regret at their departure, would fain 
land and live at White Head. It is from a point of 
land jutting out at the eastern part of Grand Harbour 
that foot passengers to White Head take their departure 

•7 



46 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



— two islands, Harbour Island and Green Island, lying 
between the said point of departure and White Head. 
This important part of the Parish of Grand Manan will 
ever hold a prominent position in the progress of the 
parish, and must commend itself to governmental con- 
sideration too strongly to be disregarded. 

On leaving Woodward's Cove, and coming on towards 
North Head, about two and a half miles, brings you to 
a pretty little straggling village called 

SINCLAIRVILLE alias CENTERVILLE. 

It may have obtained its first name after an -old 
Englishman, John Sinclair, who had resided there, and 
where his sons and their families yet reside, although 
Sinclair lived on the western side of the island at Dark 
Harbour for about a quarter of a century — a sequestered 
and dark spot, indeed, for a man to spend the one-third 
and more of his allotted years. Centreville contains a 
store, a blacksmith shop, a saw-mill, a schoolhouse, an 
undertaker's shop and several farms in its vicinity. The 
Griffin Brothers firm of Eastport carried on quite a 
trade here some years ago, and also a Mr. Lawrence, 
now in Boston. This little village, progressing in 
common with other parts of the island, began to feel its 
importance ; and not choosing to be called Sinclairville, 
adopted the name of Centreville, by which substituted 
appellation it will probably ever be known. 

Centreville has now mail facilities weekly, and this 
convenience although not perfected has largely tended 
to give greater interest to a desire for reading, which of 
itself is no trifling consideration. It is a very pleasant 
place during summer sunshine ; but when an easterly 
storm sweeps the bay, the breaking of the sea against 
the shore, with the roar of the tempest, is simply, 
sublimely terrific. 

Centreville seems to be a favorite location for American 
squatters, and others from other shores. They seem to 
take to it as a duck to the water. What the attractive 
power is that draws them to it is unknown. Yet the 
fact is all the same. Upon the whole, Centreville has 
many advantages, and the people, being industrious and 
generally frugal, are quite comfortable. Before leaving 
Centreville, it may not be out of place to remark that a 



larlotte County, New Brunswick. 47 

convenient' edifice for religious worship would be a 
standing monument of their piety, and would free them 
from the inconvenience of coming to North Head, or 
going to Woodward's Cova or Grand Harbour or a 
schoolhouse. 

Wharf accommodation at some part of Centreville is 
much needed ; and if the money uselessly expended on 
lighthouses on the St. Croix Kiver and St. Andrews Bay 
was expended on wharves on Grand Manan and the 
other islands of Charlotte County, the benefit wo aid 
be felt even in the Government coffers. 

NORTH HEAD. 

This particular district of the Parish of Grand Manan, 
certainly calls for special notice. Her© is the general 
distributing post-office. Here is the main harbour of the 
island. Here is the Swallow Tail lighthouse. Here 
are three wharves at present — Gaskill's, O'Brien's and 
Dixon's, and & fourth one in course of erection by Capt. 
Gaskill ; and according to the progressive spirit of the 
people, as many more may be errecfced in as many years. 
Here is a splendid schoolhouse. Here a large Free 
Baptist Church. Here are millinery shops, pro- 
vision and clothing stores, groceries and confectionery. 
Here are farms, yielding the products of the soil 
abundantly. Here are fishing establishments, vessels of 
large tonnage, boats and dories all employed. Here 
are Flagg's Cove, Sprague or Pettes' Cove, Whale Cove, 
and the Saw-pit Cove. Here is where the steamers first 
come. Here where the mail-steamer lands her mail-bags 
filled with letters and the news of the world. On the 
arrival of the mail-steamer, the sight at the head of 
Gaskill's wharf, on the highway between it and the 
post-office (some sixty rods), and at the steamer (if 
high water aad she is alongside), presents as lively and 
as busy a scene as on and about the steamboat landing 
at Eastport, Calais or St. Stephen. It is no idle 
gathering either, for .large freights arrive with each 
arrival of the steamer. 

The amount of trade carried on here, taking the popu- 
lation into consideration, is astonishing. The fishermen 
must be amazing consumers. Here are respectable and 
comfortable conveniences for the entertainment of 



48 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



strangers. Capt. Jas. A. Pettes' house, a 'short walk 
from the steamboat landing, has all the accommodations 
requisite for the comfort of a limited number of guests. 
The table is well supplied with all that the hungry or 
the delicate appetite demands ; the rooms clean, airy, and 
spacious ; the bedrooms just what they ought to be, 
and where "tired nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep/' 
loves to hold its vigils. The lady hostess is so well- 
known, and so well appreciated by the travelling public 
to the island, that anything further in her praise would 
be quite superfluous. 

On the first settlement of this part of the island, as 
may be supposed, only two or three individuals pitched 
their tent here. Little did they dream of the future — 
the short future too. Drawing a straight line from the 
head of Flagg's Cove across to the centre of the sea wall 
at Whale Cove, leaves all the eastern part of North 
Head a peninsula — the strip of low land separating the 
two cbyes forming an isthmus ; .the western part form- 
ing our main land — shall we say (geographically) 
continent. On this peninsula we have at its extremity 
east, the Swallow Tail, and on the Swallow Tail a light- 
house, from base to deck, 45 feet ; and the point on 
which it stands, being 103 feet above high water, makes 
the elevation of the light 148 feet total elevation. There 
is a keeper's house, in addition to the lighthouse, and 
other smaller buildings for stores, tools, oil, &c, all 
painted white. The keeper, Mr. «Tohn W. Kent, being 
quite neat and tasty of himself, spares no pains to keep 
his buildings in trim also. The light reflectors cast a 
brilliant gleam over the waters of the bay and help to 
chase away the gloom of darkness, and it may be of fear 
from many a storm-tossed marines The view from the 
Swallow Tail, or west of the bridge, near the Saw-pit, on 
a clear day, can hardly be excelled. Part of the coast 
of Maine, of the north shore in Charlotte County, 
Campobello, the Wolves Islands, Pennfield, Chamcook 
Mountain and the numerous hill tops extending from ; 
St. George to St. Andrews are all visible to the naked 
eye. It is a standpoint from which the observer can see, 
too, the blue line of the Nova Scotia shore lying along 
the horizon as if pencilled there by a marine artist. Now 
a large square-rigger looms up, and another, and another ; 



In Charlotte County, New Brunsicick. 



49 



then smaller craft in scores. The smoke, too, of a 
steamer lazily floating along over the still waters gives 
rise to thought. Has she crossed the Atlantic, or is she 
from Halifax or Yarmouth or the States ? Or is she 
bound out to traverse the treacherous ocean, bearing a 
precious freight of human souls? If so, may the 
voyage be propitious a'nd free from harm over the wide 
waste of waters. No visitor to Grand Manan should 
leave it, if convenient at all, without a walk to the top of 
the highest land at Pettes' Cove, especially if the day be 
fine and free from fog. The scenery of land and sea 
from it will w-ell repay the time. 

By reference to the map of the island we find that 
the little isthmus, already mentioned, was glebe land 
many years since, w T hen subsequently it became the 
property of Ebenezer Gaskill. The course by the com- 
pass from Flagg's Cove to Whale Cove being north ten 
degrees east. 

Josiah Flagg was the original proprietor of 200 acres 
of the North Head peninsula, known as Lot No. 16, and 
adjoining the glebe lot. John Sprague was the early 
owner of Lot No. 15, adjoining the Flagg lot, and con- 
taining 225 acres — the line betw r een the lots extending to 
nearly the centre of Fish Head, and running the same 
course as the glebe line, north ten degrees east. A 
triangular piece of land formed by the line extending 
from Nett Point, north twenty-eight degrees west, 
twenty-eight chains, until it strikes the line at the 
highway, of the original Flagg and Spra,gue lots, became 
the property of Lieut. John Cameron on which reside 
his two daughters, his grandsons, Capt. Pettes, Peter 
Dixon^ and his grand-daughter, Mrs. E. A. Dixon, 
and other descendants, and numerous other families. A 
long, narrow strip of land runs longitudinally on the 
south of the latter line and highway, extending along 
the shore of Flagg's Cove to Drake's Dock and further. 
Nathanial Daggett succeeded Josiah Flagg in ownership 
of Lot No. 16 ; and James Small succeeded his grand- 
father, John Sprague, in Lot No. 15. 

From the above statements, the whole area of our little 
North Head peninsula — say from the present residence 
of Deacon Eodney Flagg to the Swallow Tail lighthouse 
— comprises about 450 acres. It would have been 



50 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



deemed fabulous, at the earliest period of the settlement 
of this romantic part of the island, to have sketched by 
pen or pencil its present appearance as it is in 1876. 
What a half-century, more or less, effects in a wild forest 
la id, possessing facilities for settlement and trade, 
can find as good proof at North Head as in almost any 
other portion of New Brunswick — and that, too, 
independent of railroads or telegraph wires. 

Two or three dwelling houses, and small and incon- 
venient withal, were the only hospitable roofs, say fifty 
or sixty years ago, to afford a night's lodging or a 
homely meal to any poor wayfarer who might perad- 
venture come along ; or to the hapless sailor cast, like 
a waif from the sea, upon the shore. But, how is it 
now ? Let the eye look over those 450 acres, and what 
do we nee ? Verdant fields and cultivated acres, 
handsome residences, garden plots, neat fences, vessels 
riding gallantly at anchor — some going to other ports 
laden with the islands exports, others coming in, 
bringing in like richly laden argosies the products of 
other climes ; fish-houses, stored with the finest of fish, 
ready waiting for the market; an ever increasing 
population of industrious men, economical housewives 
and intelligent children — and of the last named, about 
118 on the school register list of daily attendance ; 
Sabbath-day worship regularly by a stated ministry of 
the Episcopalian, Kev. Mr. Covert ; and the Free Will 
Baptist, Rev. Mr. Kenney, — both of those gentlemen, 
highly esteemed for their "works' sake" and other good 
qualities. 

We will leave North Head for the present, resuming 
a few additional remarks hereafter, and, in the mean- 
time, introduce the reader to the extremity of Northern 
Head. 

Here i3 the noted Eel Brook, which has gained a 
name on account of its copper ore — that valuable 
mineral having been discovered there in beautiful 
specimens. But Eel Brook, has obtained a notoriety of 
a far different kind than copper — no less than the scene 
of some of the most dreadful shipwrecks that have 
occurred in the Bay of Fundy. Since the occurrence of 
those dread disasters, a fog-whistle has been erected 
near the scene, at Long's Eddy ; and as no shipwrecks 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 



51 



'have occurred since, the warning voice of this fog- 
trurnpet may have prevented some fog -enveloped vessel 
from finding her voyage ended near Eel Brook. 

The following account of two wrecks at this place will 
convey to the reader an idea of the dangerous nature of 
the Northern Head for vessels in fog or storm, and the 
great necessity for using every precaution towards 
giving the fatal spot as wide a berth as possible. 

SHIPWRECKS.— THE LOSS OF THE SHIP LORD ASHBURTON. 

The narrative of this dreadful shipwreck and loss of 
life is strictly true, the writer having obtained the facts 
from one of the survivors, Mr. James Lawson, a native 
of Bronholm, Denmark, and who has been for many 
years and still is a resident at North Head, Grand 
Manan. 

The Lord Ashburton was a ship of over 1000 tons 
burthen, commanded by Capt. Owen Creary, a native of 
Pictou, Nova Scotia. His chief mate was a native of 
Brighton, England ; the ship's carpenter hailed from 
Portland, Me.; his name is thought to be Sweeney, past 
middle age, had a wife and two children, residing in 
Portland. The ship's crew, officers and men numbered 
29 all told. The Lord Ashburton sailed from Toulon, 
France, in ballast, on the 17th of November, a. r>. 1856, 
bound for St. John, N. B. Nothing unusual occurred 
during the voyage across the Atlantic. The ship made 
Cape Sable in the afternoon of Christmas-day, December 
25th, and in due time entered the Bay of Fundy, and 
sighted Grand Manan ; but encountering head winds, 
fierce and continuous, was forced to put to sea. Three 
times successively this doomed ship sighted the island, 
and by adverse, furious gales compelled to turn her lofty 
prow away from her destined port — that port which she 
was never to enter ! Battling with the storms of winter 
in the Bay of Fundy, the persevering mariners, with 
courage characteristic of the sailor accustomed to the 
perils of the sea, which proves how use doth breed a 
habit in a man, continued to urge on the Lord Ashbur- 
ton despite the raging waves, tempestuous winds, and 
gathering ice on deck and rigging, towards their anxi- 
ously desired port, St. John harbour. 

Hope grew strong in the breasts of Captain Creary 



52 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



and his men as they sighted Partridge Island light, at 
the entrance of the long-sought harbour, on the Satur- 
day night of the 17th of January, a„ d. 1857 — just two 
months since the ship sailed from sunny France, with 
full flowing top sails, for New Brunswick. A good ship, 
manned and officered by able searnen— all hopeful, of 
spending the opening of a New Year in the bustling, 
busy business City of St. John. Oh, could they but have 
seen on that 17th of November 1856, as they sank the 
sight of merry Toulon in the distance, a picture of the 
dread wreck of their good ship, so soon to be ; could 
they but have read in brief the harrowing story of 
death's intended work among that gallant crew on the 
shore of a far-off island, and so nigh their intended port, 
what anguish untold would have been theirs ! But let 
us not anticipate. The simple story of this tragic record 
of the bay is more than enough for the sensitive mind to 
dwell upon — the tender heart to feel. On the night of 
the 17th of January 1857, the wind blew a gale from 
the north-east, attended with a heavy snow and a tre- 
mendous sea — making up in all what is generally termed 
and so well known, "a violent north-east snowstorm." 
That is sufficient ; it tells its own story, it conveys its 
own interpretation, and can easily be" defined by 
dwellers on the land ; but, alas ! how much more so 
by those who go down to the sea in ships, who do 
business on the great waters — by those on board a vessel 
in the Bay of Fundy, or anywhere on the North 
American Coast, and at night ! The night under 
consideration found the Lord Ashburton in sight of 
Partridge Island ; but to get within the offing or ap- 
proach nearer, was impossible. Under dire necessity, 
the ship was hove to, hoping that daylight, the light of the 
coming Sabbath morn, would bring with it a cessation of 
the raging storm, Delusive hope ! Daylight came, but no 
abatement. That Sabbath morning, the 18th of Janu- 
ary, a. d. 1857, revealed a raging sea and a terrible 
snowstorm ! Sunday passed away, the ship lying- to ; 
and with its passing, Oh, how many of those 29 sailors 
thought of home— of the days of their childhood, of the 
prayers they lisped at their mother's knee, of the ringing 
and chiming of Sabbath bells, of parental love and 
instruction, of the companionship of brother, sister, 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 58 

* relatives and friends ! Are they all, or any, remembered 
now? And as the darkness of night again begins to 
fling its dark funereal pall over the bay, how many of 
them w r ipe the rolling tear with rope-hardened hand from 
the weather-beaten cheek, with presentiment of boding 
death ! God knoweth. Their manly breasts heaving 
with intense agony of spirit, as another long, dark, 
stormy night gathered in and over them. Is that 
gallant-looking ship, as she rises and falls on and among 
the furious billows of the angry bay, to outride the storm, 
and anchor in safety in the noble harbour of St. John ; 
or has fate sealed her doom by an irrevocable fiat ? We 
shall see. 

The Lord Ashburton, from the time she sighted 
Partridge Island light, was driven as wind and tide 
drove her— at the mercy of wind and wave. They had 
no mercy! "Before the boreal blasts the vessel flies." 
And now, refrain as we would, our pen comes to the 
recital of the heart-rendering, sickening details. It was 
about an hour after midnight, on that eventful Sabbath 
night, the 18th of January, that the Lord Ashburton 
rushed on impetuously towards the frowning cliff of 
rocks, near Eel Brook, at the northern end of Grand 
Manan, the summit of the cliff high above the lofty top- 
gallant masts, and looking down as if with grim visage 
upon the awful sight below ! The ship, speeding on to 
certain destruction, the seething waters all around her, 
struck the rocks abreast her fore-chains ! Captain 
Creary, taking in the inevitable, at once cried out : "My 
God, my God, we are all gone !" The chief officers 
gave orders to get out the boats — futile orders, no human 
being could obey them ; for 

"Striking the rocks, the storm confirmed its power, 
And soon the whitened waves flung bodies on the shore." 

Now came in terrible earnestness a battle for life. 
Hitherto, strong active men, now staggered and reeled 
like helpless children. The ship listed off shore, the 
foremast and mainmast went by the board — the mizen- 
mast soon followed — the crew and officers gathered aft 
on the starboard quarter ; and it was at this awful 
juncture that Death began his dread work in earnest. 
Yes, yes; it was then that — 

"The wild confusion in this fearful storm, 
And groans of men, was death in dreadful form," 

8 



54 Bay of Fundi/ Islands and Islets. 



— the captain and his officers and many of the crew 
being swept off by the dark, mounting, rolling waves into 
the merciless sea ! Ten of the crew, including ship's 
steward, flung themselves into the mad waves next the 
shore, and partly under the lee of the ship's quarter. 
Some got on fragments of the broken ship ; others, 
attempting to gain the beach by swimming as best they 
could, although every heaving sea broke over them with 
overwhelming force. One of the ten who thus fought 
for life against death in the raging waves was James 
Lawson, and desperate were his struggles and efforts for 
existence. 

Amidst the bowlings of the tempest, the roaring of the 
waves, and the wild shrieks and shouts of drowning and 
mangled shipmates, he struggled on ; sometimes nearing 
the shore and again carried back by the undertow. At 
length, when almost overpowered, his strength just gone, 
his feet touched land ! It was then about two hours 
flood tide, and gaining a footing, lie had just got out of 
tide's way, when he fell exhausted on the beach ! Unable 
to stand, he got upon his hands and knees, and endeav- 
oured to get further up the beach ; but being too much 
exhausted for that, and feeling the rising tide beginning 
to wash up to him, he called aloud for help ; and strange 
to say, in this his almost hopeless extremity, one of his 
shipmates, who had reached the shore in stronger con- 
dition than he, heard his cries, and coming to him, 
helped him to stand, and assisted him to, the base of the 
cliff, where he remained till daylight, the waves at high 
water washing up to his waist. While struggling in the 
sea to reach the shore, he lost both boots, and the sharp 
rocks on shore soon tore the stockings from his feet; and 
thus he stood for hours barefooted among the icy rocks. 
A few short hours more in that situation, and he must 
die. Another strong effort, strong in his weakness, must 
again be made for life, Clambering up the precipitous 
breast of rugged rocks before him is now the only 
alternative. With the effort he succeeded, and on 
reaching the summit a dreary prospect presented itself. 
No dwelling in sight, no road to guide to a hospitable 
roof; with frozen feet, and now all alone, a dreary wild 
i of rocks and snow and stunted trees before and all 
around him, it only remained for hirn to learn "what 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 



* prodigies can power divine make man perform and so 
in his exhausted and perilous condition he proceeded on, 
as best he could, knowing not whither, until he saw a 
building in the distance. Making for it, it proved to 
beian old barn at Long's Eddy, containing hay. 
(There is now a fog-whistle erected near the spot where 
the barn then stood.) This poor shelter he reached and 
entered — anticipating there to die ! But God had 
decreed otherwise. Close on his barefooted tracks in 
the snow, followed a fellow-creature to save him — the 
same person now in charge of the fog-whistle — who on 
entering the barn beheld poor Lawson, and soon he was 
conducted from the cold barn to a warm little cottage, 
occupied by a kind-hearted old couple, Mr. Bennett and 
his wife, where he was kept until next day, then 
removed to the residence of Mr. William Kendrick, of 
Whale Cove, receiving every possible care and attention 
under the circumstances. 

Early in February following, Lawson, with six others 
his rescued shipmates, were taken to the Marine Hos- 
pital at St. John. There he remained for five years 
and three months, having had both feet partly amputated 
by Dr. Boyd. On leaving his hospital home, he re- 
mained in the City of St. John about three years ; but 
feeling a very strong desire to re-visit the Island of 
Grand Manan, where he had suffered so much and 
where he had experienced so much of God's goodness, 
he yielded to the strong desire and came to the island. 
If he had ever been skeptical in the belief of an over- 
ruling Providence, the subsequent history of his life was 
and is more than sufficient to establish his faith in the 
verity of those w r ords : 

"God moves in a mysterious way, His wonders to perform." 

Thus was James Lawson saved on that awful night, 
or rather morning, of the 19th of January 1857, while 
all the officers of the ship and a large majority of his 
shipmates were hurled into eternity — into the swallow- 
ing gulf of waves of dark forgetfulness and deep 
oblivion ! — the thick falling flakes of tempest driven 
snow being the only flowers that strewed their watery 
graves, for the time, amid the awful roar of the hurricane ! 
Having landed on the friendly shore where eight years 
previously God had so mercifully saved him, crippled in 



56 Bay of Fnndy Islands and Islets, 

both feet, his hands unskilled in any mechanic art, and 
his tongue, although fluent enough in his native langu- 
age, the Danish, untrained in English, his disadvantages 
seemed very embarrassing, particularly on a foreign 
shore. The Danes are characteristically a mo<fc.l, 
industrious, frugal and persevering people, and James 
Lawson proved no exception ; for he soon manifested 
those national traits on his adopted island-home, 
securing for himself the sympathy and good-will of 
the inhabitants. 

THE SAILOR TURNS MECHANIC. 

Not being able to stand long at a time on his feet, he 
wisely elected to learn the shoe-making business, as 
being the most suitable under the circumstances ; and 
notwithstanding the fact that he cut and stitched and* 
pegged away, week after week, losing time and money 
withal, he persevered with a pertinacity of purpose not 
to be overcome, until he mastered the opposing forces, 
arriving at the accomplishment of his acme. 

His perseverance thus rewarded* and the knowledge of 
his new profession giving increased satisfaction to his 
increasing customers, he was, in a short time, the re- 
cognised boot and shoe-maker of Grand Manan 
such he is this day. 

THE MECHANIC TAKES A WIFE. 

James Lawson, having succeeded so well in acquiring 
by dint of self-instruction a knowledge of the art and 
mystery of shoe-making, felt encouraged to go further 
and take unto himself a wife. Having married a good 
help-meet by whom he had two children, a son and 
daughter, he soon built up for himself a local habitation 
and a name. 

In the dispensation of Providence, after a few years of 
married life, the* mother exchanged this mortal life for 
one of immortality ; and her bereaved husband, after a 
reasonable lapse of time, found it necessary to marry 
again — he and family residing about two miles from the 
scene of his providential escape from death. Having 
united himself with the Free Will Baptist Church at 
North Head, he sets an example of Christian consistency 
which it would be well if many older professing Chris- 



In Charlotte County, New Bruiisivick. 57 



tians would more closely imitate. We must now leave 
this part of our narrative, recommending* at our parting 
the history of James Lawson, as one worthy of thought 
and copying in part. That history proving what a 
stranger in a strange land can perform, under the most 
trying and adverse circumstances, when strengthened 
by sobriety, and an indomitable resolve to succeed. Go, 
doubting youth, and arm thyself with fortitude ; put 
thine own shoulder to the wheel, and Heaven will help 
thee to conquer every difficulty. 

THE LOST. 

Of the ten seamen who reached the beach, seven 
perished by the intensity of the cold, superinduced by 
tbeir previous exertions among the breaking waves. 
The news of the dreadful shipwreck was soon carried 
throughout the island; and during the forenoon of that- 
never-to-be-forgotten 19th of January, many people had 
collected at the scene of the awful disaster, although 
the drifted snow r was piled up over road and fields as 
one insuperable barrier. Seven were found in a sitting 
posture, and when approached by those who had come 
to succour and to save, they looked so life-like in their 
death, that it was supposed they had fallen asleep i And 
so they had ; but it was that sleep which knows no wak- 
ing ! It has always been considered by the men who 
saw the dreadful effects of that terrible catastrophe on 
that morning, as very extraordinary that not one of the 
ship's number of officers and men was missing ! The 
bodies of the captain and his mates, with seventeen of 
the crew, were all there ! What a sight ! Twenty-one 
lifeless bodies stretched before their eyes on that rock- 
bound shore. Humanity was astir that morning among 
the hardy fishermen of Grand Manan. The still small 
voice of unutterable sorrow whispered down deep into 
every heart ; and with trembling hearts, but strong 
arms, those dead strangers were soon lifted from their 
icy, rocky death-beds, to receive from sympathising 
strangers' hands a regretful and decent interment. 

THE GRAVE YAKD. 

With the exception of the captain's remains, those of 
the other officers and seamen were laid together ! Death 



58 



Bay of Fundi/ Islands and Islets, 



is a great leveller. In the graveyard at North Head, n 
long, lettered board reads : "Here lie the remains of 21 
seamen of the ship Lord Ashburton, drowned 19th Jan. 
1857." That tells the story ! Captain Creary's brother 
came subsequently, had the remains disinterred, and 
taken away to receive burial in his native soil and among 
those of relatives. It was a melancholy consolation — 
but even that was a balm to wounded hearts. Better 
than an unknown spot at the bottom of the ocean. Now 
gentle footsteps can walk by the grassy hillock ; and the 
hand of friendship strew flowers over him, and the tears 
of love and grief mingle together and weep in sorrow 
but in hope. It is noticeable to the residents of North 
Head that when a ship of Her Majesty's Navy or any 
other navy visits us, and the officers come ashore, they 
almost invariably find their way to the graveyard and 
then to the grave where rest the remains of the lost 
crew of the Lord Asliburion. How true it is that "fel- 
low-feeling makes us kind." The sailor wearing his 
epaulettes disdains not to mourn over the grave of his 
shipmate from the forecastle. Although those twenty- 
one strangers are buried far from the graves of their 
fathers, yet they are sleeping in British soil — the soil of 
a free land. "After life's fitful fever, they sleep well." 

THE LOSS OF THE SARAH SLOANE. 

The loss of this fine vessel, and the terrible loss of 
life with it, although far below that of the ship Lord, 
Ashbnrton, in tonnage, and in number of men, far ex- 
ceeded that dreadful wreck in its wholesale slaughter ! 
Strange, that two such great disasters should have 
occurred at almost the very same point of rocks — the 
distance of the wreck of the Sarah Sloan e being but a 
few rods from where the Lord Ashbnrton met her doom. 
But God's ways are inscrutable to man. It was Wesley, 
the poet and the divine, who, in describing death, wrote : 

"Ah, lovely appearance of death ! 
What sight upon earth is bo fair ? 

But had he been a spectator at Eel Brook at the time of 
the wreck of the Sarah Sloane, and beheld with shud- 
dering gaze the fragmentary portions of the bodies of 
the unfortunate sailors, he would not have asked the 
question: "What sight upon earth is so fair?" but 



In Charlotte County, Neiv Brunswick. 59 

I rather would he have touched the lyric string in words 
i like these : 

Oh ! shocking appearance of death I 
What sight upon earth so appalling ? 

The venerable Wesley must have had before him, 
imaginary or real, the sweet-face of some little cherub- 
\ child, whose spirit had just passed from its small 
j tenement of flesh to its God — leaving the imprint-smile 
of an angel's kiss upon its yet dimpled cheek when he 
penned the lines quoted. He could not have had 
! pictured before him the broken bones and mangled flesh 
| of man, cut down as in a moment, in manhood's strength 
! by the sweeping scythe of death — death in its most 
j appalling form ! 

Of all that hapless crew, but one, a young mulatto, a 
native of Baltimore, U. S., was left to tell the tale of 
woe ! His name was Charles Turner. Turner's en- 
durance of suffering was remarkable. How he lived 
through that fierce storm and the piercing cold, is only 
know T n to Him whose providence sustained him. The 
3^011 ng mulatto was conveyed to Capt. Eben Gaskill's 
| residence, where he received every attention and com- 
fort that could be administered under the circumstances. 
It was about two o'clock in the afternoon of the 12th 
of March 1872 that the Sarah Shane, Capt. Sloane, 
master, left St. John Harbour, bound for Cardenas, 
with a load of shooks and hay. The crew consisted of 
eight souls all told. By six o'clock that same evening, 
not one was living but the young mulatto ! 

With but one or two exceptions, the bodies were so 
! mangled, as rendered the sight the most horrible and 
sickening. The bodies, literally cut and ground into 
pieces by the action of the debris of the wreck, and the 
action of the waves among the sharp rocks common to 
that part of the shore. No better idea can be given of 
the appalling sight than to use the words of a fisherman 
who was present after the disaster, and assisted to gather 
up the detached remains and put them in boxes. "The 
pieces," said he, "of the poor fellows, looked for all the 
world like so many junks of raw pork!" What more 
than that homely-expressed description was necessary to 
convey the effects of the wreck of the Sarah Sloane ! 
No more revolting and distressing casualty of the sea 



60 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



can hardly be given. The mangled portions were care- 
fully collected, boxed up, and buried near where the 
remains of the Lord Ashburton's crew are interred 
while the body of the captain and supercargo were taken 
in the schooner F. Gould, Capt. Eben Gaskill, to St. 
John. Turner, the mulatto, was also conveyed at the 
same time to the Marine Hospital in that city, and had 
his feet amputated ; and after his convalescence was 
sent to his native city, Baltimore, U. S., where, it is 
presumed, he was kindly cared for by friends and relatives. 
Those shipwrecks, attended with such lamentable loss 
of life, not to speak of property, which must have been 
heavy, awakened the Government to the necessity of 
using wliat means it could towards preventing the re- 
currence of similar disasters; and as there was a 
lighthouse at Swallow Tail, it was considered best to 
erect a fog-whistle at or as near as possible the place at 
North Head where those dreadful shipwrecks had been. 
Consequently, Long's Eddy appeared the most suitable 
location, and there it is, bellowing forth a grum warning 
by night or by day, or throughout them both, piercing 
through the fog-gloom, to keep clear of the rocks near 
Eel Brook, and the precincts of the old "bishop," who 
sits on his rocky chair, overlooking wrecks and storms 
as grim and hard-featured as ever did the noted Judge 
Jeffries, the cruel. 

EEL BROOK. 

The scenery at Eel Brook Cove, and from the base 
and summits of the stupendous cliffs, is grand and 
picturesque in the extreme. Nothing conveys more of 
the sublimity of rock and wave, than the raging surf 
striking in wild fury against those embattled cliffs ! 
Nothing more calculated to impress the mind with awe, 
and the mighty power of the Almighty, who "walketh 
on the wings of the wind, and holdeth the waters in the 
hollow of His hand." 

There is quite a farm at Eel Brook, and large ranges 
of pasture where flocks of sheep roam and feast unmo- 
lested by any wild beast. Eel Brook has its source in a 
small lake about one mile from the shore, called Eel Lake. 
It is surrounded with a fine growth of hard and soft wood. 
On the brook, and not far from the beach, is a small 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 



61 



v saw mill, which cuts all kinds of short lumber — pickets 
and stuff for smoked herring boxes. Indians love to 
nestle about the mouth of Eel Brook. It empties into 
the bay through a deep gorge, and the aspect of the 
place is in keeping with the wild nature of the red man. 
They set eel traps at the mouth, and catch sometimes 
in one night a half barrel or more of large fat eels as 
they make from the brook to the bay. Hence the name 
Eel Brook. On approaching the mountain-like and 
precipitous cliff at the eastern extremity of Northern 
Head from the sea or bay, a singular resemblance of a 
human head, as if sculptured from the rugged rock, 
becomes an object arresting attention ; and as if to 
render the outline of the man-rock more impressive, it 
seems to represent a church dignitary with a cowl, but 
minus the crosier. It has long been honored with the 
name Bishop's Plead. By a strange freak of nature's 
rough carving on a rock at the Southern Head, and as if 
to off-set the Bishop's Head at Northern Head, stands 
the figure of a woman of giantess-size, which has at- 
tained the name of the Old Maid. Probably, even old 
dame Nature, in seating the Old Bishop at North Head, 
and the Old Maid at Southern Head, 20 miles apart, 
intended thus to represent the consistency of clerical 
celibacy, and the commendabili ty of the Old Maid's vows 
of virginity. However, whatever may have been the 
design of those two rocky resemblances to the human, 
there they are, and there they will probably remain, 
until the period when they shall "melt with fervent 
heat," amid the "wreck of matter and the crush of 
worlds." 

The public highway at present extends no farther than 
Eel Brook ; but it cannot stop there. Now that a fog- 
whistle is at Long's Eddy, the road must be completed 
to it ; and when so ready, there will be a splendid drive 
from Long's Eddy to Southern Head, nearly, which for 
beauty of rural and marine scenery may well challenge 
any other drive for the same number of miles on the 
Western Continent, 

The largest growth of wood on the island is found at 
the northern and western part ; a large number of the 
trees being well adapted for shipbuilding. James Bait 
and John Wilson, Esquires, formerly merchants in St. 
o 



62 



Bcty of Funcly Islands and Islets, 



Andrews, carried on quite a trade in the sawing of 
lumber and in ship-timber. Many logs cut at that time 
remained in the' little lake (Eel Lake) until a year or 
two ago, when they were taken from their beds of watery 
repose and manufactured into pickets in the tiny mill on 
the brook. 

THE SEA WALL 

at the head of Whale Cove merits attention and 
particular mention, chiefly on account of the variety of 
beautiful pebbles to be found there. The lover of 
mineral and sea-shore specimens, can be richly rewarded 
by wencfing his steps to 4 the pebbly-covered beach at 
Whale Cove, and collecting as many as he chooses to 
take away with him. Here are porphyry, agate, jasper 
and many other varieties. That noted head, called Fish 
Head, on the eastern side forms a stupendous break- 
water from the easterly storm, while the long line of 
frowning cliffs, extending, as one of nature's greatest 
ramparts, along the western shore to Eel Brook, shelters 
our spacious Whale Cove from the fury of a north-west 
gale, leaving the placid cove to wrap the drapery of its 
couch around it,' and sleep on in pleasant dreams. 

In the year 1873, a large ship, the Humber, of some 
1600 tons, ended her voyage life at this sea-wall, and 
was a huge example of the cremation system of dealing 
with the remains of the dead, only that no kind hand 
gathered up the ashes to preserve them as precious 
relics of the dear departed ! The waters of Whale Cove 
were the urn to receive them. 

Leaving Eel Brook, and seeking other brooks, we 
find a pretty murmuring stream, east of the Free Will 
Baptist Meeting-house, coursing its never weary journey 
to the waters of the bay. Further an, southerly, another 
narrow but dashing # brook races for the bay, emptying 
itself into its swelling tides, a little south of Drake's 
Dock. At the eastern line of the old Winchester farm, 
another pretty stream runs for salt water ; and, like a 
twin sister, another near it on which is a gaw-milL 
Near the Isaac Meigg's farm, we cross another gurgling 
stream which turns a mill, passing on, like all the 
rest, as if eager to commingle with salt water. There 
is a lovely brook at Grand Harboar, running down past 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 63 

Turner Wooster, Esqr's, place and the lobster factory 
establishment. , 

The stone church, new schoolhouse, parsonage, grav8 
yard, &c, are all clustered around here and in the near 
vicinity of the bridge which spans this pretty stream. Its 
pellucid waters, as if allied to the church, sing a 
sweet cantata, as they glide swiftly on to unite their 
destiny with the mighty deep ! The Jehu who drives 
over the road on arriving at Mark Hill t must hold his 
rein to allow his Arabian to slake his thirst at the water- 
ing trough, for sweeter, purer waiter neither man nor 
beast can hardly find in any country. Passing Mark 
Hill, and nearing Seal Cove, there is a very fair sample 
of a good saw mill, a few rods from the highway side, 
owned by Mr. William Russell, postmaster at the cove, 
and who cultivates a fine farm and keeps a neat and 
well-filled %tore withal. 

The brook at Seal Cove empties into that safe little 
haven, made by Dr. Faxon's enterprise, and is spanned 
by a bridge, which seems to look up over the high hill- 
tops, as if waiting a visit from the Commissioner of the 
Board of Works to whom it will tell all its grievances. 

The angler who wishes to hook trout weighing over 
two pounds each, must go to Lake Utopia, Lewey's 
Lake, the Magagnadavie or other noted trout waters to 
catch them. Having such a variety of salt water fresh 
fish, just outside low water mark, the. Grand Mananites 
are content with small trout. 

LAND BIRDS. 

Of the land birds which visit the island from time to 
time there may be enumerated the following : 

Eagles — White-headed, sea, red kite, orange-legged 
falcon, hobby falcon, kestrel. 

Owls — Great and lesser horned, snowey, barn grey, 
small screech. 

Crows — Raven and common carrion. 

Swallows — Chimney, window, bank, purple martin. 

Cuckoo — Yellow-billed, king-fisher, butcher bird. 

Fly Catchers — Spotted grey, pied, blue-winged jay. 
, American Wood-thrush -Robin, rice bird, or black bird. 

Warhlers — Of these pretty little songster-s of the trees, 
there are some 60 varieties in New Brunswick — all 



64 



Fundy Islands and Islets, 



migratory — such as black cap, white-throated, white- 
breasted, yellow-winged wren, coal tit, chatterers, wax- 
wings, sparrow, pinefmch, crossbill, broan tree creeper, 
&c, &c. 

JYood-peckers — The great black, three-toed, spotted 
and small. 

Tlie American Pigeon is also migratory. On the 8th 
of March 1875, a turkey buzzard was shot at Whale 
Cove. As this bird is common to South Carolina, its 
appearance so far north as Grand Manan was a rare 
occurrence, which may never occur again. 

Cranes — The grey crane, heron. 

Plovers — The grey, golden, dotterel, sand plover, and 
little plover. 

Sandpipers — The ash-colored, purple, pectoral, curlew, 
little sandpiper. 

SEA-BIEDS. 

Great curlew, whimball curlew ; snipe, crake, bittern ; 
thick-billed goose, barnacle goose ; shell duck, mallard 
duck, teal, wigeon, eider duck, scoter, surf scoter, harlequin 
duck; divers, ring-necked loon, black-throated loon; razor- 
billed awk, little awk or ice-bird, cormorant ; terns : 
common, Caspian, arctic, black-breasted, gull tern ; 
gulls : great black-backed, swallow-footed, silverv, 
white- winged, green-billed ; pirate bird, long-tailed do. 
(arctic), shearwater ; Wilson's petrel, storm petrel, sea 
pigeon, &c, &c. 

The above list of land and sea-birds has been kindly 
handed to the author by our Grand Manan ornithologist, 
Capt. John T. C. Moses, a native of England, but long 
a resident of Charlotte County, New Brunswick, retain- 
ing ever an enthusiastic love of fatherland and the old 
flag. He makes birds his specialty and his pastime. 

The wild animals of^he woods on the island are very 
few — deer, rabbit, fox. With the exception of sly 
Keynard's love for the poultry yard, what few wild animals 
are on the island are perfectly harmless, and a child is 
safe in sleeping on any part of it — free from attack of 
anything larger than a black-fly or musquito.' 

It has been observed by many sportsmen as some- 
thing singular that no partridges are to be seenghere. 
As there are plenty of birch, and considerable wilderness 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 



65 



land, it does seem strange — but so it is. The entire 
western side of the island, from end to end, being un- 
inhabited, presents a goodly range for land-game of beast 
and bird, but we have them not. 

OUR ISLETS, 

on the southern side of the island, are not only 
picturesque and beautifully ornamental to it, but useful 
as well, forming so many natural breakwaters, protect- 
ing the shore of the main of the parish from much of 
the fury of the sea in a storm. Long Island protects 
Flagg's Cove and Centreville. Great, High and. Low 
Duck Islands and Nantucket protect Bancroft's Point 
and Woodward's Cove ; while White Head and its inner 
islets form a barrier from the sea in favour of Grand 
Harbour. And the Three Islands and Wood or Inner 
Islands, opposite Seal Cove, throw up the shield of 
protection there ; so that it would appear, as Nature, in 
her wise provisions for the general good, had an eye to 
the w T eal of Grand Manan — and governed herself 
accordingly. It may well be imagined that the Parish 
of Grand Manan, being as it is a complete sea parish, 
and totally separated from the mainland by a channel 
some nine miles wide, should command special con- 
sideration in the Marine Department at Ottawa. 

When the present population is taken into proper 
consideration and the certainty that as years and seasons 
roll on, the population will be augmented, and vvith the 
augmentation of population, the trade, wealth and 
fishing pursuits of the island, will also increase, there 
can be no more fitting time than the present for the 
Government to encourage and aid the island industries. 

THE STATISTICS 

of the parish are the least credentials in its favour. 
The list of electors, alphabetically arranged and here 
subjoined, exhibits the respectable position the parish 
holds on a general polling day, and gives a good idea of 
the real estate in possession. The number of freehold 
voters may be recorded thus : 

A's 3, B's 49, C's 50, D's 40, E's 9, Fs 37, G's 55, 
H's 18, 1's 21, J's 5, K's 13, L's 18, M's 38, N's 6, O's 
5, P's 5, K's 19, S's 29, T's 11, U's 7, W's 34, Y's 4, 



68 Bay of Fundy Islands end Islets. 

Z's 4. Total number of voters in 1876, 480. It is 
easy to see that a parish polling 480 votes is an im- 
portant portion of Charlotte County, especially to the 
candidate aspiring to a seat in the Local Legislature ; 
and how much more important to the aspirant for a 
seat in the House of Commons ! 

It is hut simple justice to the Charlotte County 
Islands that they should be represented in the Local 
Legislature by one of the islanders ; and it cannot be 
expected that the people of those islands will be satisfied 
unless they are so represented. The total population of 
the Parish of Grand Manan at present, taking the last 
census as guide to it, may be safely estimated at two 
thousand four hundred souls, and, if slowly, surely 
increasing. 

Referring to the protection afforded Grand Manan by 
its outlying islets from the fury of the sea, satisfactory 
proof was experienced on- the 4th of October, a. d. 1869, 
when the great tidal-wave rolled on and along the Xorth 
American coast, with the besom of destruction. 'Tis 
true Grand Manan felt at its different points some of 
the effects of that awful wave, but nothing in comparison 
to other parts. Even the steamboat wharf at the town 
of St. Andrews, N. B., was swept by that tidal wave, 
carrying away a part of the block on which the tower 
and lighthouse keeper's dwelling stood ! The whole 
seaboard of the Atlantic Coast for hundreds of miles was 
more or less denuded of wharves, buildings, vessels and 
boats. The town of Eastport presented a melancholy 
sight ; and some of its most enterprising business men 
were left almost destitute in one short hour ; and yet, 
Grand Manan passed through the ocean ordeal com- 
paratively unscathed ! Its islets helped to save it. Even 
the Swallow Tail light— the base being 103 feet above 
high water mark — suffered much injury, but it had no 
outer island to protect it. 

From the report of W. H. Yenning, Inspector of 
Fisheries, for 1870, to the .Department at Ottawa, the 
following data appears respecting the Fisheries at Grand 
Manan— namely, that in that year there were employed 
875 men, and the total value of the fish caught 
amounted to $102,351. There were some 50,000 boxes 
of smoked herring and about 80,000 barrels of pickled 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 



67 



Sierring. Since that period large acquisitions have been 
marie to the fishing business. The island had no 
bankers then — it has now ; the fishermen did not trawl 
then — they do now. 

While speaking of trawling for fish, it is not necessary 
to go back to the treaty of 1818 to find, in its interpre- 
! tation, cogent reasons to urge the necessity of more 
stringent regulations than at present exist for the pro- 
tection of our inshore fisheries. 

The amount of tonnage of the island coasters and 
freight vessels will average over 500 tons, while the 
tonnage of vessels engaged in fishing in the bay and on 
| the banks, will far exceed that number. Of large two- 
! sail fishing boats and boats of smaller size, and skiffs, 
| and dories, they can be counted by hundreds. Thus 
progresses the productive developments of that in- 
exhaustible storehouse of unbounded wealth, the sea. 

At North Head village there is a large building of its 
land erected for smoking fish, which is doing an 
extensive business in that branch ; also another at 
Dixon's wharf, and one on the western side of Flagg's 
Gove. Centreville, too, contains smokehouses, and 
cures large numbers. But at Woodward's Cove and at 
White Head — White Head particularly — are found the 
principal places for smoking herring for exportation. 
The Duck Islands, Long Island, and the two inner is- 
lands at Seal Cove also contribute their quota of boxes of 
smoked herring. Indeed, the smoked herring of Grand 
Manan have become as well known in provincial and 
foreign markets, as the famous red herrings of Nova 
Scotia, known as "digby chickens." 

The reader must by this time, having carefully per- 
used our island history from its earliest settlement to 
the present period, possess a sufficient knowledge of its 
attractions, advantages, wealth and importance, to give 
to it its proper estimation as a portion of the Dominion of 
Canada. Although the whole Atlantic coast from Cape 
May to Cape Tormentine is dotted with summer resorts 
for tourists and visitors who seek the invigorating sea 
breeze, and love to lave in the swelling tide, yet Grand 
Manan, as it becomes better known, becomes better 
appreciated, and those lovers of salt water spray and the 
healthful breezes from the sea, find their way here, and 



m 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



liere recuperate their impaired health, recruit their flagging 
spirits, returning to their respective localities with buoy? 
aiicv of spirit and agility of limb, such as was 
experienced by the cripples from the Pool of Bethesda ! 

With the increase of summer visitors, hotel accom- 
modation must keep pace. A good hotel will he required 
at Woodward's Cove or Grand Harbour, and another at 
Seal Cove, or in the vicinity of Deep Cove, near the 
residence of W. B. McLaughlin, Esq.; and should Jjr, 
McLaughlin convert his fine private residence into an 
hotel — with his well-known desire to please — the enter- 
prise would be a success. To dine on a rich leg of mutton, 
and then visit the Old Maid »of Southern Head, and 
return before tea — how pleasant! The Old Bishop at 
North Head would never write its pastoral. 

minerals. 

This island presents a fair and an extensive field for 
a more thorough investigation of its mineral resources 
than it has as yet received. Its geological researches 
have sot been adequate to its deposits. Lumps of cop- 
per ore, ane weighing several pounds, in its native 
purity, have been picked up at different places from time 
to >ime, in the vicinity of Eel Brook, Fish Head and 
around the shores of Whale Cove ; and yet, strange to 
say, those tangible proofs of this valuable ore existing 
here remained disregarded, until, in 1862, Moses 
Bagley made a new discovery of copper at the western or 
back part of the island, near a small cove called Sloop 
Cove. 

Parties from England, attracted by the report of this 
discovery, visited the place and began mining operations 
in 1870. The ore is known as grey copper and contains 
90 per cent, of pure copper. This mining party ppne- 
trated 210 feet into a ciiff, near the beach, finding as 
they progressed the prospects of the ore in quality and 
quantity increasing. Why the party discontinued and 
returned to England cannot be well accounted for. The 
statement has been made, and it remains uncontradicted, j 
that the soil of the island covers a strata of copper. 

Baryta, combining the sulphate and carbonate acids, 
is found to abound plentifully near Pettes' Cove and in 
the Fish Head vicinity. It is a very valuable mineral, 



In Charlotte County, Neiv Brunsivick. 69 

and only requires a little capital and more enterprise to 
make it yield a large return for all outlays. The time 
may not be far distant when the hammer of the geologist 
may strike the blow that will set the miner's pickaxe at 
work in true earnest ; and then the cheery song of the 
fisherman, as he nears the rocky shore with his boat 
| load of fish, will blend merrily with the ring of steel 
I striking the shining metal from its bed of ages ! Thus 
will land and sea contribute in making Grand Manan 
shine brighter and brighter as one of the gems of the 
bay. 

HORSES AND CATTLE. 

The number of horses at present on the island may 
be counted up to 70, and horned cattle, oxen, cows and 
young stock upwards of 150, while sheep are numbered 
by hundreds. It is becoming quite common now for 
our youths and maidens, instead of visiting their friends 
or amusing themselves in sail or row boats, to step into 
a covered carriage or open wagon — of the newest stjde 
from Dewoife's factory in St. Stephen or from Nova 
Scotia — and "take a drive." The " saddle" is too old- 
fashioned, and the "sulky" is not sufficiently pleasing. 
That very welcome vehicle, too, the meat cart, makes its 
appearance up and down the island; and no person 
relishes a nice beefstake or mutton-chop with greater 
zest than a sturdy, hungry fisherman. 

In concluding the present history of Grand Manan, 
the author candidly confesses that he has not done full 
justice to the subject. With a willing hand, and an 
earnest desire to do justice, he is notwithstanding con- 
scious of having left much undone of what ought to have 
been done, and, it may be, of having done what ought 
not to have been done. The small price of the work 
would not justify elaborate details. 4 

A glance at the past and the present relative to Grand 
Manan, will convince the most sceptical that this fine 
island has kept steady march on the road leading on- 
wards and upwards, towards independence ; and if not 
oppressed and overburdened and crushed by and beneath 
the weight of taxes from outside herself, she will prove 
the nursery of a brave and able population of men, to 
10 



70 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



aid the Government that wisely governs her with strong 
amis and fearless hearts. 

What the past half-century has witnessed in the im- 
provement of this island, the next half-century, under 
the protecting care and blessing of Him who ordereth 
and disposeth according to His will, will see yet greater 
improvements — will see Grand Manan grand in the 
prosecution of her fisheries; grand in her agricultural 
industry ; grand in the development of her mineral 
resources ; grand in the temperate habits of her hardy 
sons ; grand in her churches ; grand in her schools ; 
grand in all that ennobles humanity ; and as a bright, 
diadem in the coronet of her grandeur, — grand, ever 
grand in the expansion of her native intellectuality. 



In Charlotte County, New Bru/nsivick. 



71 



CHAPTER III. 

MACHIAS SEAL ISLAND. 

^^^felllS island, lying as it does in the mouth of 
the Bay of Fundy, and being under the 
Marine' Department of the Dominion of 
°l '^pP?* Canada, and having a little history of its 
own, it may not prove uninteresting to 
give it some attention in the present history of the 
islands of Charlotte County. 

Its distance is about 13 miles from Gannet Rock ; 
and as Gannet Rock is 6^ miles from the south-west 
head of Grand Manan, the distance of Seal Island from 
Grand Manan is ascertained. It is a little over one 
mile in circumference, and at its highest part has an 
altitude of 28|- feet. Mr. John Connolly and his sons 
— his successors — residents at present of St. Andrews, 
resided on that lone and dreary island some 37 years. 
The experience of this Connolly family of the fogs and 
the storms and the isolation of living on a lone, desolate 
rock, amid the fury of the elements, for 37 long years, 
must have been bitter indeed. Surely the Marine De- 
partment of the Dominion would be justified, and not 
only justified, but in duty bound, in consideration of 
such a life-long exile from all human society, save their 
own, to grant them a suitable salary during the re- 
mainder of their hitherto wasted years. 

A SHIPWTIECX. 

On the 9th day of January 1889, John Connolly and 
his brother, Obadiah, saw a brigantine nearing the 
island, and soon saw her strike on a rocky islet, called 
Gull Rock, about one-fourth of a mile distant. The 
vessel proved to be from Sackville, N, B., bound to 
Barbadoes, with lumber and hay. The Connolly 
brothers started at once for the scene of the disaster, 
at the risk of their lives, and succeeded in rescuing the 



72 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 

captain, officers and crew from a watery grave. The 
captain's name was Thomas Blanche ; the first mate, 
Charles Bent, N. S.; the second mate, Elijah Chase, 
Sackville, N. B.; and six seamen. 

The rescued mariners were conveyed to the residence 
of the keeper of the light, w r here they were kindly 
cared for for four days, w4ien they were taken to the 
mainland in the schooner Dolphin, of Cutler, Me. 

Thus were the Connolly's instrumental in saving nine 
fellow-creatures from a watery grave — and that of itself 
is sufficient to entitle them to the consideration of the 
Government. It seems the island was called Seal 
Island, by reason of the great number of seals frequent- 
ing those rocks and islets. Little Gull Island, J mile 
distant from Seal Island, and Sw r ean's Kock, about two 
miles distant, — a barren rock low out of w&ter with 
ledges, — form a favourite resort for the porpoise and the 
seal ; while wild fowl make it their chosen lodgings when 
they fold a weary wing. During the long voluntary 
exile of the Connolly's on this most desolate abode in 
the Bay of Fundy, there were seven disasters, and, no 
doubt, had not the sailor's bright star of mercy been 
lighted night after night on that dreary rock, the num- 
ber of wrecks and of lives lost within that 87 years 
w r ould have numberd seventy times seven. There are 
now two lighthouses on Seal Island, and in addition a 
powerful steam fog- whistle, which can be heard in 
moderate weather at a distance of 15 miles, in stormy 
weather from 5 to 8 miles, and with the w T ind from 20 
to 25 miles. 

The keeper's dwelling has had necessary repairs, and 
the establishment is as w T ell prepared as possible to 
warn vessels of danger, and to provide for the comfort 
and security of those who, to provide for the susten- 
ance of the body, isolate themselves from all society but 
that of figh and fowl. 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick, 73 



CHAPTER IV. 

INDIAN ISLAND. 

^^&HIS lovely little island-gein rests in the 
ifSJII wa ^ ers °^ t'he Passamaquoddy ; but subject 
f'^^^^g to the rushing tidal waters of the Bay of 
1 Fundy, in common with. Deer Island, 

and all the smaller islands adjacent to 
them. . It has been known by almost as many names as 
a lord, dufce or earl, or even a prince of royalty, The 
red rover of forest and stream called it Jeganagoose ; 
then it received the name of Fish Island ; anon Perkins' 
: Island ; again LeArterail ; finally, to stop this erratic 
| love of aliases, it obtained the present name Indian 
Island, which sounds a little more euphonious than 
Jeganagoose ; and yet it is rather singular that civiliza- 
tion delights in thus complimenting the descendants of 
those savage tribes by naming towns, villages, islands, 
and even railroad stations after them. 

Indian Island has Campobello on its south-east, Deer 
Island on the north-west, and Moose Island on the west 
and south-west. It holds about a central position 
among them. Nothing «an surpass the beauty of its 
situation ; and the view of the surrounding islands— 
i the Passamaquoddy Bay, the towns of Eastport, Luhee 
and the bee -hive hamlet at Wilson's Beach on Campo- 
bello from this island — is exceedingly delightful. A 
view of Indian Island, too, from Fort Sullivan, the 
i American fort at Eastport, and which, with lofty head, 
overlooks the surrounding waters (for Eastport is built 
upon Moose Heai Island, as New York is upon Man- 
hattan) and the islands in them, enables the beholder to 
look over it to advantage. Its form is oblong, extending 
j about a mile in length, and contains in area about .150 
acres. 

Although compared in size to Moose Island, Campo- 
bello, or Deer Island, it may appear too small to demand 




74 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 

more than a passing notice, yet we find that Indian 
Island has a history of its own — a history entitling it to 
an equal position, at the least, on the page of history. 
Gathering up the scattered leaves, and binding them 
together, they read our little island's history great in 
importance, greater far than many an island greater in 
area. 

It was probably first visited by Frenchmen who ac- 
companied DeMonts or Champlain, about the time that 
Annapolis Royal, in Nova Scotia, then called Port 
Royal, was settled by the French. Indeed, there can 
hardly exist a doubt about it, or that the hand of the 
white man's art had been there and cultivated a portion 
of the soil ; for at the time that the earliest English 
settler, Chaff ey, landed on the island, which was in 
1760, one hundred and sixteen years ag£, he found 
several openings in the woods, resembling garden plots, 
fringed with rows of currant bushes, having all the ap- 
pearance of having been cultivated — many of them then 
growing and fruitful. In addition to those evidences 
that the white man had been there, and had cultivated 
vegetables, fruits and flowers, despite the presence of 
savage tribes, Mr. Chaffey had also discovered the 
foundations of fallen chimneys, w T hich ruins were seen 
by his youngest child, who yet has a vivid recollection of 
having wandered among them in childhood, although 
now over eighty years of age. 

The descendants of James Chaffey claim that he was 
the first Englishman that ever wintered among the is- 
lands in the Passamaquoddy Bay, and that little 
Jeganagoose, lovely Indian Island, was the identical 
place on which he landed as his chosen location. It is 
not impossible, neither improbable, but that fishermen 
from Old York might have entered those waters, follow- 
ing schools of fish, as the porpoise, or the whale, 
pursuing them even up the Saint Croix River during 
the spring and summer months, and so have had 
summer residences on the islands ; but the chances and 
circumstances are at present in favour of James Chaffey 
being entitled to the name and the fame of b^ing the 
first white English settler on Indian Island. As such 
the claim is his and his descendants, until set aside 
by stronger proofs to the contrary. The disputing 



In Vltarhtte Coiuitu, New Brunswick. 75 

claimant might probably go into it with the determin- 
n of the "Tichborne claimant/' and with similar 
results — all but Newgate ! 

Our Indian Island Robinson Crusoe, James Chaffey, 
was born in Somersetshire, England, went to London, 
learned the trade of a goldsmith, and, with the love of 
adventure strong in his bosom, determined to leave his 
native England, and see the new wtfrld, and gain a" firm 
foothold for himself on the western hemisphere, the 
great continent of America. He first found his way to 
Philadelphia. Had that city, at that time, presented to 
the eyes of the young adventurous goldsmith, the amaz- 
ing world of wealth and the world's productions, as in 
this, ths Centennial exhibition of them, it may be 
easily presumed that he would have become one of its 
citizens. But Philadelphia in 1760 was not the Phila- 
delphia of 1876 ; and, after a brief sojourn there, with 
the spirit of travel, adventure and trade within him, he 
came down east, settled, as has been said, on Indian 
Island, and at once entered into the fur trade with the 
Indians. Neither Deer Island nor Campobello ( and 
venturing the assertion, until successfully contradicted) 
nor Moose Island (Eastport) can boast, as can lovely 
little Indian Island, of having the first house erected on 
it. The first house and the first store that astonished 
the wondering eyes of the Passamaquoddy Indians were 
built by James Chaffey, the Somersetshire boy and the 
London goldsmith, at that time, the Indian fur-trader 
of Passamaquoddy Bay. 

An unmarried man at the time, with no white as- 
sociate of either sex to cheer him in his solitude, it must 
have required an uncommon share of courage and love of 
adventure to reconcile him to an isolated existence, 
surrounded by day and by night with the wild whoops 
of treacherous savages made yet more wild and frightful, 
situated on the little forest island, and surrounded with 
the rips, and tides, and fogs of the ever-changing, ever- 
eddying, ever-whirling, rushing, foaming, seething waters 
of the Passamaquoddy ! 

As fortune is laid to follow the brave, so Chaffey was 
destined to experience a change in his condition. In 
the year 1768, a man by the name of John Lefontaine 
came from Port Pioyal to the island. Lefontaine, or, as 



76 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



now is, Fountain, had been at tlie taking of Quebec in 
1759, and served on board of one of the British ships as 
a sailor. Like the adventurous Charley, he, too, chose 
Indian Island as his future home. It was providential 
for Chaffey, as Fountain had a very comely daughter, 
and good as she was comely. No wonder that the fur- 
trading bachelor, after having been associated with the 
sight of savage fac£s for eight long years, should have 
been captivated at beholding a handsome white maiden 
stand, like a bright star on a cloudy horizon, on Indian 
bland. 

Our Passamaquoddy fur-trader saw and loved, and 
loved and wedded. By this happy union of too fond 
hearts, Chaffey was the father of eleven children ; but ot 
all of that large family, not one liveth at the present day 
but the vouncfest, who resides on the island, and nuru- 
bers the years of the octogenarian, of whom mention 
has been made on a previous page. Following Foun- 
tain, several others came on in fishing smacks, remain- 
ing during the summer, and returning in fall and 
winter. A few, however, remained and settled on the 
island, and others, also, on Moose Island and among 
the other islands. 

Indian Island seemed to sit supreme among the other 
surrounding islands — the little sea-nymph of the hay : 
for here was the head quarters for all the other islands, 
Chaffey was the trader. He carried on extensively in 
fish and fur, and wielded great influence among the 
Indians. He seemed to possess a power over them 
without manifesting any desire to exercise an arbitrary 
power. In his long business intercourse with them, he 
always maintained an inflexibility of purpose unswerving 
in his manner, of great decision and uncompromising 
firmness. The red man feared and admired this white 
man. His very fearlessness brought them to become 
his obedient traders, and they respected where they 
dared not resist. One instance of the power his moral 
courage possessed over those savage tribes may be given 
here.* It reads as follows: During the American 
revolutionary war of 1776, Colonel Allen sent a party of 
Indians to Chaffey to make him say he loved General 
Washington. Chaffey was confined to his bed at the 
time by illness. The savages approached his bed-side, 



In Charlotte County, Neir Brunswick. 77 

jSoarished weapons, and ordering Chaffey's wife to give 
them the best in the house to eat, with uplifted toma- 
hawks, and drawn knives, threats and threatening 
gestures, ordered Charley to obey. True to that firmness 
of resolve which had ever distinguished him, he passed 
triumphantly through the trial of his courage and 
national fidelity ; and the Indians, as if kept at bay 
and ruled by an invisible power, left the house without 
accomplishing their purpose ! 

Through the influence of Chaffey, a man by the name 
of Goldsmith (in happy agreement with the name of the 
trade lie learned), established salt works on the island — 
or rather was agent and manager for a company formed 
for the purpose. It was no inconsiderable enterprise, 
as the salt was manufactured from sea- water boiled up in 
large kettles. The business was prosecuted until all the 
wood on the island was consumed in boiling the kettles, 
and so had to desist. The island at the beginning of 
those unfortunate salt-works was clothed with a magni- 
ficent growth of all kinds of wood common to the 
country, and Chaffey's aid in thus denuding the island 
of its valuable trees has beeji a source of regret to the 
people of the island, even to this day. His death oc- 
curred in 1796, leaving a widow and a large family in 
bereavement. Hon. William Todd (deceased), of St. 
Stephen, N. B., married several years ago a descendant 
of .Mr. Chaffey. Mow Indian Island began to receive 
^resh and new acquisitions. A Scotchman by the name 
of Daniel McMasters, from St. Andrews, established a 
fish store ; then, Col. Thomas Wyer, also of St. 
Andrews, prosecuted the same business, then the late- 
John Wilson, of Chameook, traded in fish and lumber ; 
then a Mr. Freeman did a large business ; and about 
this time a Mr. Henderson, who had been Collector of 
Customs at Snug Cove, Campobello, was removed from 
his situation to Indian Island, and sat, like a modern 
Matthew, at the receipt of customs there. This was 
about the year 1811. This was the important embargo 
epoch ; and, the new customs' officer is said to have per- 
formed his duty with vigilance and impartiality — never 
deviating from the strict line % of rectitude. It was then 
that flour, principally, and goods of all kinds were mys- 
teriously (a secret known only to expert smugglers) run 
ii 



78 Bag of Fundi/ Islands and Islets, 

over from Eastport to the island on dark nights ; and, 
where naked beaches and sea-walls were at sundown, at 
sunrise next morning and long before it, those beach 
and sea-walls, were covered with immense p : Ies and 
heaps of goods. Collector Henderson, on seeing such 
sights, would playfully tell" toe men near by : 'Must 
clear away a path for me to walk through, so that I will 

Then it was that men ran great risks for the reward 
of great wages. Ten, fifteen, twenty, thirty and even m 
high as forty or fifty dollars a night for running contra- 
band goods from Eastport to Indian Island — a very short 
run ! The stern voice of the American sentry hailing 
the smuggler, with the imperious "Heave to that boat," 
followed by the sharp crack of the musket, were common 
through the darkness and stillness of the night : and 
yet the boat glides on, with muffled oar, for Indian Is- 
land's welcome beach. Many are the thrilling stories 
related of those eventful times — sufficient of themselves 
to form a romantic and tragical history of facts, as 
intensely fascinating as the most exciting novel of im- 
aginary" marvels. In 1812, the first day after the 
declaration of war, a privateer arrived at Eastport, 
There were also three schooners at anchor in the fcove 
at Indian Island. Two boats from the privateer, filled 
with men armed to the teeth, came over to capture the 
schooners. A few of the men of the island hastily col- 
lected on Chaffey's wharf, and as the armed boats 
neared the schooners, the Indian Islanders pointed their 
muskets at them, warning them not to come nearer at 
the risk of life. The privateersmen replied that they 
would return and bring over the privateer.' The boats 
accordingly returned. Two of the schooners slipped 
their cables, and ran ashore on the beach, it being ebb 
tide ; and the other schooner, owned by Merritt, of St. 
John, N. B. ? started for St. Andrews. The privat.er 
got under weigh ; but instead of crossing to the island, 
she gave chase to the .schooner, and captured her just as 
she was entering St. Andrews Bay. Merritt, the owner, 
was on board and the vessel had a full cargo of goods 
and produce, which proved a valuable prize to the 
enemy. ^ Had he slipped his cable, as the other 
schooners had, he would not have slipped into the 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 79 

ST 

hands of the Yankee ; but such is ait instance of the 
fortune of war. 

Another incident, by way of reprisal, may be men- 
tioned. A scow, loaded with barrels of tar, was lying at 
Eastport, which was brought oyer to the island, ran the 
blockade, and was moored at a wharf. Several boats, 
full of men, crossed over to re-take the tar, when 
Joseph Freeman, Cant, of Militia, with a small band of 
his men, fired into them. The Eastporters, instead of 
catching the tar, it seems, caught a tartar ! An old 
Irishman, by the name of John Doyle, was one of Capt. 
Freeman's firing party, who, elated with the result of 
what .was in reality a bloodless victory, gave vent to his 
patriotic enthusiasm in a poetical effusion of forty lines. 
As a specimen of the whole, we give the following : 

"My gun being not well-loaded 
It gnapp'd, being all in vain; 
The balls came whistling round my ears 
Just like a shower of hail. 
But still we drove them to their boats 
Y/ithout either dread or fears, 
And quickly we were re-inforeed 
By Deer Island volunteers, " 

The poet Doyle in the following verse feels it his duty 
to compliment the Campobello lads also on their readi- 
ness to assist in the tar-y conflict ; and thus he sings : 

"The Campobello heroes, too, 
Behavedkwith courage bold, 
Commanded by George Anderson, 
Who scorned to be controlled. 
He is a valiant soldier 
For his King and country's cause, 
And he made the Doodle Dandies 
Submit to British laws." 

And then the Irish melodist goes on to sing of the 
"Deer Island boys," "health to" Capt. Lloyd, to Capt. 
Freeman, to Capt. Anderson," to the "Bucks of Garry - 
owen," and to the "Indian Island boys." 

It is a truly patriotic song, and had our poet hero, 
John Doyle, only lived to have presented it to the 
British Grenadier Band, to be sung in Boston at the 
time of the great "Musical Jubilee," his bliss, earthly, 
would have been complete ; but it is to be hoped his 
song now, no longer of earth earthy, is one of the sweet 
anthems of Heaven ! — of triumph over death and the 



80 Bay of Funcly Islands and Islets, 



It was about tke period of this exploit that Eastport 
was taken by the British forces, and held in possession 
until the close of the war. It was not long after the pro- 
clamation of the cessation of hostilities, before the angel 
of peace spread her healing wings over the late contending 
parties and business intercourse revived. In 1818, 
Alfred Armstrong was appointed sub-deputy treasurer 
for West Isles and Camnobello, by the then deputy 
treasurer at St. Andrews, Thomas Wyer, Esq. — the 
office to be kept at Indian Island. In 1820, the sub 
was honored by the Legislature with full deputy, in 
which capacity he acted until 1822, when the office was 
closed, by the misrepresentations of interested parties, 
until the following year, 1823, when Alfred's brother, 
Richard, received the appointment. It was during the 
treasury-reign of Eichard Armstrong, and under his 
auspices, that the big dwelling house, with custom 
house attached, was erected on Little Thrum Cap Islet, 
only separated from its kind mother, Indian Island, by 
a narrow channel a few yards wide. In 1824, he left 
the big house, the custom house and Little Thrum 
Cap behind him, removing to the City of St. John. 

Another deputy treasurer, C. H. -Jouett, Esq., was 
sent to take the vacated office ; and seating himself in 
the office, in the big house, on Little Thrum Cap, 
looked with wonder and delight over the sparkling 
waters around him, and felt he was monarch of all he 
surveyed — all but Eastport, Moose Island, and depen- 
dencies — with the exception that he acted under certain 
restrictions, such as- from entering any vessels except 
coasters. In 1826, however, permission was granted 
him to enter foreign vessels. This was the harvest 
period for Indian Island. The trade was extensive and 
profitable, and a large number of vessels were engaged 
in the West India trade, carrying thither cargoes of fish 
and lumber, and bringing in return sugar, molasses, 
rum (not "white eye"), &c, which were re-shipped in 
large quantities on smaller vessels, which ran as 
packets, and sent to St. John and other ports for sale. 

Then it was that the West India trade of Indian 
Island, West Isles, and Campobello exceeded by one- 
half that of St. Andrews ; and the duties then paid into 
the Government treasury by the Parish of West Isles 



ill 



In Charlotte County, Neiv Brwiswick. 



81 



nd Campobello, were nearly one-half' of the whole of 
the duties paid by Charlotte County. The principal 
business of those islands was then in the' hands of J. 
H J.. Chaffey and Charles Ghuay, at Indian Island ; by 



Patterson, Cadw 



Curry, and Win; McLean, at 



Campobello, with a, few smaller traders on each island. 

The following list of vessels, owned at Indian Island, 
in 1827, will afford the reader of to-day a good idea of 
its prosperity almost 50 years since : 



NAME OF VESSEL * 

Indian Queen 
; Elizabeth Mory 
Mary. Stubbs 
Eliza Ann 
Lady Douglas 
Indian Chief 
Mollis 



TONS 

122 
103 
107 
898 
197 
177 
154 



OWNED BY 

J. & J. Chaffey 
J. Patterson 

ft a 

John McKenney 
W. Hatheway . 
Eben Scott 



TRADE WITH 

West Indies 



ari( 



A very short time after the above period there were 
dded to the above list — the following : 



AME OF VESSEL CLASS 

Queen of the Isles Brig 

Cavatier Jouett " 

Papvoose " 

Eugenia " 
Lord of the Isles 



OWNED BY 

J. & J. Chaffey 
Chas. Guay 

ii ii 

John McKenney 



TRADE WITH 

West Indies 



Le'Aterail 



Schr. Chas. Guay 



Here was a fleet of thirteen vessels, aggregating say 
2000 tons, engaged in trade between little Indian Island 
and the West Indies half a century ago. Where are 
they now ? And echo answers— where ! Has the 
glory of those past days forever departed ? Is there not 
vitality enough in the Governments of^the present day 
to breathe new life over the islands of the bay ! 

In addition to this fine little mercantile fleet, numer- 
ous srSall coasters were busily employed in plying their 
vocation, principally with St John and border ports. 
But the sun of prosperity which had shined so brightly 
over those islands for years, ripening them into the 
maturity of independent competence, became dim — a dark 
cloud appeared in the marine horizon, betokening coming 
ill to Indian Island and her sister isles. The West 



82 • Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



India ports were opened to American vessels, and soon: 
the disastrous effects to the little Indian Island fleet 
became apparent. The West India market had found 
new channels of trade, the little fleet grew less, business 
declined; and, as if to consummate the ruin of the 
trade, death came, too, and snatched away from anions 
the living the most active, energetic, leading merchant 
of the island, John CfaafTey. This event, deplored by 
all the survivors, for all felt his lo?s, occurred in 1835, 
If no church bell toiled his demise, his • death was the 
death-knell of an expiring trade, as in a very brief lapse 
of time only one vessel, the Brig Chaffey, remained as a 
solitary witness of the departed fleet. Nor was that lone 
star in the gloomy horizon long to shine. The Gliaffey 
was wrecked in 1849. ^'Slfc- ' - 

Since the death recorded of Mr. John GhafTey in 1835 
very little" else but fishing has been the business pursuit, 
and that so quieth' that a passer-by would almost con- 
clude that the fishermen, have transmigrated into 
somnambulists ! ' 

Returning to the deputy treasurer, C. H. Jouett, 
Esq., it may be right to say that when he removed to 
St. John, in 1838, Capt. Thomas Moses received the 
appointment. He, too, sat at the receipt of custom, 
like his predecessor, in the big house on the little islet. 

The. government, after- a time, united the treasur- 
ership and the collectorship into one ; and then Capt. 
Moses came down from his Thrum Cap pinnacle, stepped 
across the narrow channel, entered a gallant craft, with all 
the pomp and state of Cleopatra, and landed at WelchpGoi, 
Campobello, as collector and treasurer. Capt. Moses 
retained this joint office until his death, which occurred 
in 1881. In July of the same year, J. E. Dixon, Esq., 
of Indian Island, received the appointment of deputy 
treasurer and collector for West Isles and Campobello, 
the Government removing the office to Indian Island, 
but not to the big house on the Little Thrum Cap! 
Mr. Dixon was not so elevated. The house, like 
Solomon's Temple, fell ! 

In 1886, Campobello became the honored and happy 
recipient of a separate office .and a separate collector, 
as Welchpool felt its dignity insulted by Little Indian 
Island sitting in majesty and ascendancy over it. 



In Charlotte County, Net 



The history 



oar 
atts 



; INVASION. 

"sland would be incomplete 
^enian invasion of 1866, It 
iat the Province of Ontario, 
:he scene of its marauding 
old be confined to it. It 




year had hardly opened, when 
'regate at Eastport, Me., as a 
'zvous, and in large numbers, 
a fellow by the name of Xiiliam 
10 load a band of ruffians, they 
on a sandy beach, at the foot of 
few rods above Dog Island ; and 
j opposite Indian Island, their 
ere observed quite clearly. The}' went 
" at that place, from which they 
hated British flag flying at the 
an and his braves, eager to win 



could plainly see 
Dm house. ~ 
3e as heroes, without losing any blood in the attempt, 
eiw a good opportunity by taking that flag. According- 
ly, on the night of the 14th of April 1866, they crossed 
over to Indian Island, proceeded as stealthily as Indians 
on the white man's trail, and surrounding the residence 
of the customs' officer, Mr. DixSn, they knocked 
violently at the door for admittance. Mrs. Dixon was lying 
very ill at the time ; and as there were ladies in the 
room watching with the sick lady, one went to the door, 
without opening it* asking who was there. A voice 
replied: ".We want that English flag. Give it quickly, 
or we will burn down the house." The collector, Mr. 
Dixon, was up stairs at the time ; but hearing an unusual 
noise below, at once hastily dressed, and went to the door. 
Hearing the threats outside, he opened the door, when 
pistols were levelled at him, with a demand to give 
* the flag. At this time he heard others trying to tear o 
the window shutters. 

Taking in the inevitable, and the danger to Mrs. 
Dixon by this midnight attack, he thought, and thought 
wisely, that prudence in this case was the better part of 
valour, and surrendered to those worse than Italian 
banditti, the flag that had waved over the custom 



84 Bay of Fund/if Islands and Islets, 

m : . 

house. Those valiant Fenians, having performed such 
a gallant exploit, returned to E ast port > taking with them 
the British flag, as a bloodless trophy of unparalleled 
heroism. No wonder that flag was sent on to New 
York, to the "Head Centre" office, to be displayed there 
as the first flag taken on the battle field : 

A day or two previous to this cowardly act, an Eng- 
lish man-of-war, the Pylades, Capt. .Hood, arrived at 
Welchpool. On Sunday morning (the flag was taken on 
Saturday night) the circumstance was laid before the 
captain of the Pylades ; a telegram was sent to Beverly 
Eobinson, Esq., St. John ; the tocsin of alarm was 
heard from St. John to St. Stephen. St. George, St. 
Andrews, and even Bocabec felt the insult and the 
outrage, and the old lion of old England began t§ stir 
himself, even among the colonists. 

The newspapers took up the cause ; and the largest 
capitals of the largest type admissible in the columns of 
a newspaper, contributed to 'extend the report of this 
Fenian outrage, and a call to arms ! 

The taking of this flag w T as accepted as a warning 
note to prepare to resist invasion ; and it was pteasing 
proof of British pluck to witness the alacrity w r ith which 
that warning note was taken up and acted upon. Only 
one week passed ^way ere a band of those night-fight- 
ing Fenians again visited Indian Island. 

On the night of April 21st, they landed at Quay's 
wharf, on which stood four lame stores — two of them 
having been built a very short time previously. They, 
set fire and burned those four stores to ashes ! The 
Queen's warehouse was in one of them, containing a 
large quantity of liquors and other goods — brandy, rum, 
gin, wines, whiskey, tea, tobacco, &c, &c., w T ith a large 
supply of salt. All was consumed by the hands of those 
incendiary braves ! 

Capt. Hood of the Pylades had been notified the pre- 
vious evening of the apprehended danger, with request 
to send a guard for protection ; but the man-of-war 
captain disregarded the fears and the application as too 
trifling to require precaution. The event proved the 
necessity. 

The flames had been seen from the Pylades, and 
Lieut. Vidall with a boat's crew crossed over to ascer- 



until, New B> vnsicick. 85 



tain particulars. Another war vessel, the Duncan, had 
arrived from Halifax, bearing the flag of Rear Admiral 
Sir James Hope, and having General Doyle on board. 
On the afternoon of the day after the fire, Admiral 
Hope, General Doyle and Capt. Hood came to the 
•island and visited the scene of the late conflagration, 
and made strict enquiry of the taking of the flag from 
the custom house. A guard of marines and sailors 
from the war ships were sent over, and the new school 
house was placed at their disposal, and did good service 
tag a guard house. Troops and volunteers now poured 
! into all the border towns ; intense excitement prevailed 
j all over the province — -especially in Frederic ton, St. John 
and the frontier towns and rural districts adjommg. 
! Governor Gordon telegraphed to Indian Island, to have 
I the books, papers and all documents appertaining to the 
i collector's office removed to Welchpool : but, after a 
guard was put on the island, the order for removal was 
, countermanded. 

A gunboat next came to add to the fleet of war 
: vessels — the RosaHo — bringing a civil engineer, Mr.- 
Innes, to inspect and report on the erection of fortiflea- 
| lions; and a crew of men from tlie H(<$<c)'io were 
directed to throw up embankments around the school 

■ise (guard house), and to intrench it with a stockade, 
e ships relieved each other, by sending their portion 
crews as guards — one from the Pijladcs, the Niger 
I (Lieut. Boxer), the Fciwh (Capt. Hall), the Cordelia, 
(Lieut. Ogilvie); and after those ships left our waters, 
j Lieut. Wilmot arrived from St. John with a deta.ch.ment 
I of volunteers ; and following after, Lieut. Chandler with 
volunteers from St. Andrews and Fredericton. 

An attempt at a night attack by two large boats, fully 
armed, was made on one occasion, which was summarily 
j disposed of. A sentry of the St. John volunteers dis- 
l covered the boats, and at once tired into them. The 
rifle report soon brought out the guard, and a general 
rush was made, in true volunteer style, too impatient 
for a fight to wait to "fall in" with military precision, 
for the scene of action. The quick, sharp rattle of 
musketry was heard at "Welchpool ; and from the Niger, 
Lieut. Boxer's ship lying at anchor there, went up sky 
pockets, blue lights and signals. The Niger* slipped 

:l it - . 13 



86 



Bay of Fundi/ Islands and Islete, 



her cable, and came on in full speed of steam, with her 
fighting-lamps all aglow — officers, marines and sailors 
eager for a fray ! While thus speeding on for ac- 
tion, the Fenian armed boats passed the Niger un- 
detected, hasting on for Eastport, their harbour of 
refuge. 

A British naval officer, Capt, Napier, would not wait 
for his boat to touch the beach in order to land ; but, 
with his blood up, jumped for the shore from the bow of 
the boat, and landed in pretty deep water, although not 
cooling his sanguine hopes of a fight with Mr. Fenian 
and Mr. Killian ! 

This attempt of another, Fenian raid, after the taking 
of the flag and the burning of the stores, was the last 
one by them. Like birds of passage, only earlier, they 
began to take wing and go south to New York ; and 
before autumn, the excitement began to subside, gradu- 
ally declining, until it finally died oat altogether. 
General Meade, of the U.S. army, had been sent on to 
Eastport and Calais, to put a stop to the designs of the 
Fenians. But the tardiness of the apparently kind 
interference was too visible to blind the eyes of the 
provineialists. Had the English war vessels, the regular 
troops of the British army, and the volunteers of New 
Brunswick not put in an appearance until General 
Meade came, the Fenians could have had things all to 
themselves and in their own way. The town of East- 
port relied always to a great extent on the trade of the 
very islands attempted and intended to be invaded by 
those blood thirsty Fenians ; and it did seem to come 
with an ill grace from them towards those provincial is- 
lands to permit the Fenians to rendezvous among them 
— to open their hotels, and in many cases their private 
houses to them, and to sanction their organizing and 
drilling on the outskirts of their town for the avowed 
purpose of invading their friendly neighbours and pro- 
fitable customers, the people of Campobello and West 
Isles. After all, in justice to the good people of 
Eastport, perhaps, they were, in the case of the Fenians,, 
more sinned against than sinning ; for Killian and his 
hundreds of brigands would care little for the people or 
authorities of Eastport, unless supported by their 
Government, which support was not forth-coming until 



In Charlotte County , Xew Brunswick. 87 

General Meade and his "boys in blue" put in their dis- 
claimer against Fenian invasion. 

Before quite dismissing the subject-matter of this 
intended invasion, it may be well to remark that the 
American Government ought to have known, and did 
know, that there was a friendly intercourse and a bond 
Iff commercial amity existing between the town of East- 
port and those islands ; and that Government ought to 
have known, and did know, that the perpetration of 
villainous outrages on those islands, by lawless hordes of 
Fenians, would destroy that friendship — would cancel 
that amicable bond, and light the torch of antagonism 
that after years would hardly extinguish. The provin- 
eialists have never, since 1866, given the American 
Government credit for promptitude of action in efforts 
t^ suppress the hostility of provincial enemies, especially 
(luring the Fenian excitement. The tardiness evinced 
too much of indifference. 

Indian Island, as we have seen, from its earliest 
history to a very recent period, has been the mart for all 
the surrounding islands, not only the mart of trade, but 
for all else. Here was the chosen spot by the red man 
us a charnel-house for the dead. Here the mournful, 
plaintive "ugh" of savages, over the remains of one of 
their tribe, would blend in strange cadence with the 
moaning surf-song of the whirling tides. There is a 
circumscribed spot, yet extant and plainly visible, known 
as the Indian Island burying ground to attest to the 
fact that the Indians brought their dead from the ad- 
joining islands to Indian Island for interment . Even 
chose savages had an eye for rural scenery and a love for 
a rural cemetery. 

As the Province of New Brunswick progressed, and 
members were elected for the House of Assembly, the 
election law of those days gave no less than fifteen days 
wherein to complete the great work ! The inhabitants 
of those islands, even to Grand Manan, had to attend 
the polling at Indian Island ! The last four, elected 
under that dear old law (dear in many ways) w r ere Wyer, 
Hill, Clinch and Brown. And here, too, under the old 
militia law, the male population of the surrounding- 
islands mustered to learn their drill, the art of war. 
Three days consecutiveiv were devoted to that all im- 



H8 



Bay of Fnndy Islands and Mcts, 



portant duty, and under tbe leadership of Colonel 
McKay of St. George, and succeeding him, Colonel 
Hatch of St. Andrews, the militia of those sea-girt 
isles succeeded amazingly in acquiring a proficiency Sri 
keeping step together, by treading on one another's 
heels to such a degree that the poor militia man, af- 
flicted with chilblains, learned to endure punishment 
with the stoical silence of the red man about to suffer 
death. 

Those days are frequently alluded to as the "good old 
days" when West India rum flowed like milk, and West 
India sugar was sweet as honey; when everybody treated 
everybody ; when everybody got merry ; wdien every- 
body would sing, swear, dance and light ! 

On those election days and militia days, it was that 
little Indian Island held high carnival. It was at those 
eventful, now historic periods, that the people of the 
various islands of Charlotte County congregated, and 
revelled in unity of drink and soni>", if not in sentiment, 
'renewing annually the friendship of log for saltwater. 

Eetrospectively, since the period when the enterpris- 
ing James Chaffey, whose history in brief is before the 
reader, up to the present day, what changes ! The old 
merchants — where are they ? The goodly West India 
fleet of merchantmen — where are they ? The fish and the 
fur trade — where? The big house on Little Thrum Cap 
— where ? The large stores — where ? All gone ! But, 
consolatory thought, the dead but sleep — they will 
rise again ! And the loved island, that once" knew 
them, yet remains to remind the living of the virtues of 
the departed. 

Indian Island although shorn of much of its pristine 
glory, yet stands out in beauty, surrounded by the same 
rushing, eddying, sparkling waters that erst w r ashed its 
shores, reflecting all around it the goodness of Him who 
smiled upon it, as one of His handiworks, when the 
"morning stars sang together and all the sons of God 
shouted for joy." 




In Charlotte County, Neiv Brunswick, 



CHAP TEE V, 

DEER ISLAND. 

r i f^^^^Tt earliest history of this fine island obtain - 
r ^^^'(^l||| able at the present time, dates back some 

^^Ipg 60 years, and the changes effected in a 
1 ^IpS* new and sparsely inhabited country in even 
a century are not few ; arid Deer Island, 
within the last fifty or sixty years, as will be t seen, has 
kept good pace with her sister isles of the Bay of Fundy 
in the march of improvement. 

Looking at Deer Island, then, through the dim vista 
of years, what do we see ? The flowing tides marking 
its coast-line and washing its coves and sheltered inlets, 
without, perchance, even an Indian's bark canoe to 
relieve the monotony of the scene. The island, covered 
chiefly with forest pine — tall, straight, sound and large 
enough for shipbuilding purposes — seemed to wave their 
lofty tops invitingly for the introduction of the white 
man's axe. 

The time was just at hand when civilization 'was to 
effect a change, and squatters pioneered the introduction. 
The rude log hut, speedily erected and nestled among 
the stumps of the fallen princely pines, became the cozy 
home of the hardy woodman; and ships were built to 
navigate far distant seas, never more to re-visit that 
Deer Island the place of their nativity. Situated as 
Deer Island is in the margin waters of the Bay of Fundy, 
it is justly entitled to be classed as one of its islands. 
Although a large portion of its shores is washed by the 
waters of Passamaquoddy Bay and St. Andrews Bay, it 
may also lay legitimate claim to those noble sheets of 
water as well. Deer Island stands at the head of all 
the other islands which comprise the Parish of West 
Isles, and is in fact greater in area and business import- 
ance than all the others combined. No wonder, then , 
that once within the range of civilization it soon assume ! 



90 



Bay of Fundi; Islands and Islets, 



an important position and its population rapidly increas- 
ed. It could not be otherwise. Lying at the mouth of 
the splendid River St. Croix, and open to the Bay of 
Fundy, at all seasons of the year ; covered with a growth 
of stately pines, even to the margins of its coves and 
harbours ; teeming with fish around its coast, and 
presenting such an inviting field for artisan and fisher- 
man ; — no wonder that it soon became a favourite resort 
for industry and enterprise. That the aboriginal red 
man had, at some previous time, pitched his wigwam 
among the sheltered valleys of the island, was clearly 
enough to be seen — the squatters having discovered 
numerous heaps of clam shells adjacent to some running 
stream or living spring. The traces of Indian life were 
discernible ; but nothing to justify the conclusion that 
the French, daring their earlier occupation of the country 
to the English, had ever made for any of themselves a 
home on Deer Island. It does not appear that the 
island at any period was ever much of a hunting ground, 
for at the present time nothing more than a few wild 
water fowl, rabbits and patridges offer sport for the 
sportsman's gun. And, going back 50 years, no game 
in addition to the present were seen except the fox, who 
at the advent of the squatters would yelp out his sharp 
fox-bark through the stillness of the night, as if in 
concert with the discordant hooting of the owl. But as 
white men multiplied, and poultry increased, it was 
found expedient and necessary to exterminate the hen- 
thief as best they could ; and as trappers were not there 
to entrap the wily foe and depredator, recourse was had 
to poison and to the entire destruction of the fox : 
so that now and for years past the rooster can crow and 
the hen can cackle over her fresh laid-egg, all undis- 
mayed at the apprehension of a raid by Reynard on 
their peacful and happy domain. 

Deer Island has an irregular and broken coast or 
shore line, some thirty miles in extent, its greatest 
length about seven miles, and averaging four in its 
breadth. Its area may be computed at 14,000 acres. 
Taking Chocolate Cove as a starting point (this cove is 
immediately opposite the small but lovely island called 
Indian Island at its north end) and following along the 
eastern cost is Bar Island, then North-west Harbour, 



In Charlotte County, Nav Brunswick. 91 

Lord's Cove, Lambert's Cove, Northern Harbour, and 
passing a high head land called Clam Cove Head, is 
seen Fairhaven, and lastly Cummings' Cove ; thus mak- 
ing the circuit of the island along its shores, are eight 
commodious and well-sheltered harbours, where coasters 
can find havens of refuge from the perils of the sea. 
With such natural facilities for trade, the islanders 
themselves have not been neglectful to take advantage. 
A well-filled store is kept at Cu minings' Cove, another 
at Bar Island, while Lord's Cove lords it over the others 
by having two stores, with one at Fairhaven. In addi- 
tion to those live stores, considerable trading in small 
articles is carried on in private houses. 

Education, the hand-maid of religion, is well sup- 
ported and encouraged here. There are six schools 
under the local inspection of Charlotte County located at 
the principal coves and harbours ; and several young- 
teachers of ability have already found* their way from a 
Deer Island schoolhouse into other parts of the County, 
reflecting credit on their birth-place, their teachers and 
themselves. The spiritual welfare of the people are 
carefully attended to by Campbellite, Methodist, and 
Free Will Baptist pastors. The Campbeilites have a 
pretty firm foothold at Bar Island Harbour ; the Metho- 
dists are gradually increasing ; but, at present date, the 
Free Will Baptists are in the ascendant, outnumbering 
all others by large figures. 

Like the other islands in the Bay of Fundy, its shores 
are rocky ; but, with the exception of Clam Cove Head 
and a few other high bluffs, the land presents but little 
difficulty in obtaining safe landing at all parts. The 
island, baving been shorn of its proud pineries, produces 
now a mixed growth of hard and soft wood, very well 
adapted to the building of small vessels and fishing 
boats. The soil, where cultivated, produces good crops 
of potatoes, grass, oats and vegetables ; and garden 
flowers, skillfully cultivated, bloom luxuriantly, and 
many a pretty bouquet is made up and presented by fair 
hands to her favoured swain. Dame Nature, too, at the 
proper time affords an ample supply of ripe and delicious 
berries, which find a ready market on the island and in 
Eastport, especially on Independence Day. 

The fisheries in the waters all around the island, and 



92 Bay of Fundy Islands and t$m, 



outside of its vicinify afford employment to a large and 
an ever-increasing* population of a hardy and an 
industrious people. Fairhaven seems to betheprim ; / 
port of the island. At all events, it carries the lead in 
sending out four large coasters and two bankers, besides 
several vessels of smaller size. About 25 years ago, 
Cummings' Cove carried off the palm, as a shipyard was 
established there which turned out several large ships, 
and as a consequence, large houses were erected in the 
vicinity ; but, for several years past, a business mildew 
has passed over it. Shipbuilding is no more, and the 
imposing edifices are dilapidated; for those who erected 
them have passed away to that ' ' silent bourne whence 
no traveller returns," while those who have inherited 
their property do not seem to have inherited with it 'the 
business activity and enterprise of their worthy ancestors. 
But such valuable characteristics do not come within the 
range of legacies mid bequeathments, neither are they 
hereditary. 

The island is well watered with running brooks, and 
a few of them afford amusement for the juvenile angler, 
in catching the speckled trout. Numerous springs of 
excellent water are found on almost all parts of the 
island. There are also several tiny lakes, w T ith but one 
meriting special notice, which is known as North West 
Harbour Lake, taking its name from its location. It is 
about two miles long and one mile broad ; and, contrary 
to reasonable expectation, contains no fish — an exception 
to almost all other fresh water lakes. 

There are no minerals, nor any indications of ores, so 
far as geological investigations have extended ; but 
although nature may not have deposited any of her 
precious eggs in Deer Island soil, yet Captain Kidd, or 
some other piratical rover of the seas, may have buried 
pots of doubloons and Spanish dollars on its wild unin- 
habited shores in some of its many secluded nooks, 
where a "triple tree grows from -a single trunk," or a 
' cairn of stones" raises its mysteriously hydra-headed 
watch-guard over the spot which hides the precious coin. 
When such strange sights are seen, then the dreamer of 
buried pots of gold and of silver may begin to dig, with 
every reasonable prospect of being disappointed. 

The roads on the island are generally dry arid good : 



Iii Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 93 

but what strikes a stranger as something strange and 
peculiar is the number of gateways to arrest his progress 
on his travel. To have to halt and open and shut 
gateways, take down and put up bars, every mile (less 
or more, as the case may be), seems a tax unnecessary 
on time and patience. One consolation is, however, 
that you have the privilege of working your way onward, 
as no toll-gate keeper stands with open palm to take 
loose change from you. A change may be effected by 
road commissioners in the future, and the gate system 
on Deer Island will only then be spoken of as a thing of 
the past. 

The largest part of the the travel is, however, from 
cove to cove in boats ; and, as a consequence, there are 
but few horses, wagons, bridles, saddles, whips or spurs, 
in requisition. It would be a rare sight to see a young 
lady and her beau cantering along the road on horse- 
back. The more healthy exercise of walking, when not 
boating, is indulged in ; aifd the robust appearance of 
both sexes is undeniable evidence of the superior claim 
of pedestrianism over all other modes adopted for health- 
ful recreation. 

The tide, as it rushes in on the flood from the Bay 
of Fundy and among the small islets and ledges and 
points of land jutting out from the islands, keeps the 
rising waters in one continual whirl of agitation — and in 
many places the utmost care is required to save small 
boats from destruction. The most dangerous place 
around, or among the West Isles, is at the southern ex- 
tremity of a point of land extending from Deer Island 
between Chocolate Gove and Cummings' Cove. On the 
flood, and especially at half-flood, it is extremely dan- 
gerous for boats to approach near the point, as the 
whirlpools rage furiously, like an immense boiling- 
cauldron, in the ricinity, attended with fearful noise, 
which of itself is alarming, but proves a friend to boat- 
men on dark nights by its timely warning. The boatmen 
of Passamaquoddy Bay, familiar as they are from 
boyhood with the tides, eddies, ledges and whirlpools, 
have but little difficulty in avoiding all danger, and a 
fatal accident among them seldom occurs. About 25 
years ago, three brothers named Stover, were unfortun- 
ately drawn into those \^iirlpools, and despite their 



Bay of Fundy Islands and. Islets, 



most desperate exertions to save themselves, were 
shallowed up, boat and all, in the yawning gulf of 
seething waters. They were distinctly seen at the time 
of the lamentable disaster by men on the deck of an 
Eastport schooner ; but it was impossible to render 
them any assistance. A boat when once fairly within 
the merciless yeast of roaring waves is beyond the reach 
of aid, and the destruction is as swift as it is certain. 
At the most dangerous time of tide, large two-masted 
boats would have but slender chance of escape, if once 
within the power of those whirlpools. Like dealing with 
the celebrated and dreaded Maelstrom on the coast of 
Norway, the surest way to avoid danger is to keep at 
prudent distance, or in sea-term, give them a wide berth. 
At other times of tide than the flood, not much risk, if 
any, is run by passing through those waters, which are 
then as harmless as they are noiseless. Before closing 
the notice of those whirlpools, it may not be altogether 
out of place to refer to a circumstance connected with 
them, possessing a little of the ludicrous. A person, 
now deceased, who during his latter years resided on 
Deer Island and adjacent to Chocolate Cove, was in the 
habit of visiting Eastport, almost every week, crossing 
over in a small boat by himself. Prone to partake of 
that which does inebriate, he would seldom leave East- 
port on his return-trip free from the influence of his 
favorite, beverage, and as he neared the frightful whirl- 
pools, which raged almost within his course for home, 
he, not unmindful of the danger, would commence to 
sing a hymn suitably worded for one in extremity, and 
so continue to sing plaintively and in pious strain until 
he passed the whirlpools and felt assured that danger 
was past in the passing. He would, even in sober con- 
versation on the subject, attribute his preservation to his 
hj 7 mn-sung-prayer, and not to any skill in steering his 
tiny craft clear of the ra'ging waters. It may have been 
so. Who dare gainsay it ? At all events, the whirl- 
pools never caught him. 

The many romantic islets adjacent to Deer Island are 
not the least of its attractions. They are various and 
varied. There is the White Horse — not quite so white, 
however, as the white horse King William rode, when 
crossing the Boyne water. % This noted small island is 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 95 

situated almost at the centre of the mouth of the 
Le'Etite passage, which runs swiftly on the flood into 
St. Andrews Bay. The White Horse is a bold rock, 
with some short grass clothing its summit. Sea-birds 
are the only living thing that resort to it. The water 
is bold all around it and it would be difficult to find a 
skeltered nook large enough to protect a small boat in a 
storm. It is a good guide, however, to the entrance of 
the Le'Etite passage. In closer proximity to Deer Is- 
land, are Pope's Folly (where poor Pope, in 181*2, 
established a trading post and lost all), Casco Bay 
Island, Spruce Island, Sand Island, and White Island. 
Cherry Island may be termed Little Thrum Cap's twin 
sister, being so closely allied to it and so similar in its 
appearance. Those several little islets clustered around 
the eastern part of Deer Island are very picturesque, and 
some of them would suit admirably for pic-nics, amd 
gatherings of social parties, who enjoy the sweet shade 
of pretty umbrageous trees, with the dash of the salt 
water wave against the base of their verdant repose. 
The history of Deer Island in the past is so interwoven 
with that of Indian Island, that the reading of the latter 
may serve for the former, so far as the settlement of 
those islands by the whites is concerned. 

The proximity of Deer Island to the towns of St. 
George and St. Andrews, as well as to the American 
town, Eastport, renders it conveniently situated for trade, 
and affords close communication with those towns, en- 
abling Deer Island, to a certain extent, to participate in 
their advantages. 

A son of Mr. John Cook, the person who introduced 
the lobster factory business on Grand Manan, started a 
similar establishment on Deer Island. It could not be 
the paucity of the material that caused the relinquish- 
ment of the factory, as the large lobster factory 
enterprise in the town of St. - Andrews has always been 
well supplied with lobsters ; and } r et the shores of the 
islands, and the north shore . generally, seem to possess 
an inexhaustible supply. 

The salubrity of the island speaks loudly in its fav- 
our. A medical gentleman, taking up a permanent 
residence on Deer Island, and depending on lancet, 
blisters and pills, among the people, would have to forego 



96 Bay of Fundy Isl'in<U mid Tshfs, 

his vocation, and either follow the ex-lobster proprietor, 
Mr. Cook, by leaving the island, or try the hook-and- 
line among the rips for fish for a chowder. 

Deer Island, however, is not totally exempt from "all 
the ills that flesh is heir to" — that could not be. 
Doctor Gove, Junr., of St. Andrews, seemed to be the 
favourite physician among the Deer Island people. This 
young disciple of Ssculapius, became very popular on 
the island ; and he seemed to reciprocate the kindly 
feeling and high opinion so freely accorded him. Tour- 
ists and invalids could advantageously remain here 
during a part of the summer season, the one for 
pleasure, the .other for health. 

The Parish of West Isles must always maintain an 
important position in the County of Charlotte. In the 
cause of temperance Deer Island shines out luminously 
and nobly. No license-money for rum-selling goes 
from Deer Island into the county treasury box. Pro- 
hibition is hers. The flag of total abstinence waves 
proudly over her rocky hills and verdant valleys. Deer 
Island has set an example to her sister isles worthy of 
all imitation ; and Grand Manan, to her credit be it 
feaid, has sent up her disclaimer against a licensed blight 
upon her shores. If one thing more than another calls 
for the meed of praise for Deer Island, it is that firm 
stand she has taken in the cause of temperance. It will 
prove her polar-star to prosperity. It will keep the 
bloom of health fresh upon' the cheek of an industrious 
populace. And her bright example may be wafted 
over the Bay of St. Andrews, into the good old shire 
town, and permeate through its quiet streets, until 
"wholesale and retail" of bacchanalian drinks shall be 
banished forever. Then will the Jubilee- song of re- 
demption from the chains of the cruel tyrant, intemper- 
ance, be sung in sweeter strains of joyous melody, than 
the national and patriotic songs of Jeannie Watson, of 
Scotland, or of Kosa D'Erina, of her own loved Ireland. 

Should that happy era ever arrive, Deer Island's 
triumphant struggle for liberty will place her in the fore- 
most rank — in the vanguard-battalion of the temperance 
army that fought for the freedom of the nations. That 
will be the brightest jewel in the history of Deer Island, 
"shining brighter and brighter unto the perfect day." 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 97 



CHAPTEE VI. 

CAMPOBELLO. 

^^|f|^HE same authority (''Calkin's Geography") 
°T j ^(^i K whieh describes Grand Manan as 20 miles 
^iS^ltl and" 8 miles broad, also describes 

<i ^'zJ^ Oampobello as 8 miles long and 4 or 5 
miles broad. The reader of this little his- 
tory, as well as the writer of it, must bow acquiescently 
to Calkin's Text-book. But for the sake of courtesy, 
admitting its correctness, it will not do to be so credu- 
lous as to believe the Map of New Brunswick, 1867, 
whieh places Wilson's Beach, near Head Harbour, 
opposite Lubec ! The south-eastern coast-line of this 
valuable island is irregular and broken, presenting no 
sheltered harbour from Owen Head at the western pas- 
sage until quite up to Head Harbour at the eastern 
passage. 

Admitting the island to be 8 miles long and 4 miles 
broad, and that in configuration it is a right-angled par- 
allelogram, then its area would contain over 20,000 
acres; but from its broken coast line and large areas of 
water at W elchpool, Harbour de Lute, Wilson's Beach, 
Herring Cove and at Head Harbour, the total area of 
rock and soil cannot be more than, say 15,000 acres. But 
that number of acres, situated where they are, tell in 
forcible language the great value of this very important 
island. 

Its earliest settlement runs nearly coeval with that of 
Indian Island, and so closely identified that the narrator 
of the early settlement of Indian Island has almost 
unwittingly to himself written the history of Campobello. 

Located almost within gun-shot of the town of East- 
port, as may be supposed, it holds uninterrupted inter- 
course with it, not only daily but hourly. 

Welchpool and Wilson's Beach being the principal 
marts of trade on Campobello, they hold a commercial 



08 Buy of Fundy Island* and Islets, 

relationship with this most easterly town of the State of 
Maine, that keeps up a personal friendship each for each 
which nothing less than national hostilities could destroy. 

Campohello is delightfully situated, and seems to 
coquet with the waters of the Bay of Fundy on the one 
side and with those of Passamaquoddy Bay on the 
other. The shores all around the island are abundantly 
stored with fish, and the fishermen of Campobel'o are 
noted for their enterprising industry — for their courage 
and their dexterity in handling their splendid boats in a 
heavy sea. Perhaps those daring boatmen of Sambro, 
Nova Scotia, and the hardy fellows of St. Johns, New- 
foundland, would find their match in the fishermen of 
Campobello, and, indeed, of those of all the islands in 
the Bay of Fandy. 

WELCHPOOL 

presents qnite- a village aspect. Sheltered cozily from 
nearly all the storms that sweep over the bays, this snug 
little town-like village carries on quite a brisk trade. 
Possessing excellent facilities they are utilised by several 
enterprising traders, to the mutual convenience atfd 
advantage of vendors and consumers. There is a neat 
Episcopal church, having a lovely site on a romantic- 
looking hill, and near by a schoolhouse with all the 
modern improvements. Accommodation for visitors can 
be had at the village at moderate prices, and to those 
who prefer a very quiet lodging in preference to noisier 
places, Welchpool offers her hospitalities. Here is a 
goodly cluster of fish-houses, where pickled, dry and 
smoked fish are prepared for exportation in large quan- 
tities. Here at Welchpool is a mineral lead deposit, 
which a few years ago was worked with considerable 
activity ; but like many other similar enterprises, it fell 
through; and the sound of the miner's pick is no longer 
heard at Welchpool, blending in cheery unison with the 
boatman's song. If there existed a disposition among 
the people to cheat the custom house, no fairer oppor- 
tunities present themselves than are to be found at 
Welchpool. And nothing can better prove the firmness 
of the people to resist the temptation of illicit traffic, 
than the every day and every night opportunity, without 
the attempt. 



In Charlotte County, Nctv Brunswick. 99 

Here afc Welchpool Admiral William Fitzwilliam Owen 
resided. Admiral Owen owned tlie island. Welchpool 
was consequently the depot for all the naval stores on 
the station. The old Admiral could stand on elevated 
ground and look over his island domain and the busy 
population of it, and speak forth the words of command 
as authoritatively, as when standing on the quarter-deck 
of a man-of-war issuing orders to Lis gallant tars. 

In the summer of 1841, Her Majesty's steamship 
Colvziibia, Commander Cartwright, arrived from Eng- 
land, for the purpose of surveying the Bay of Ftmdy and 
its coasts, under the directions of Admiral Owen. Com- 
mander Cartwright and the old Admiral disagreed. The 
cause of the disagreement was best known to them- 
selves ; but it ended in Captain Cartwright leaving the 
ship Columbia and taking up his residence in the City 
of St. John, having received the appointment of resideri- 
tary hydrographer, in which capacity he acted. Com- 
modore Harding, R. N., was sent out from England to 



Mr. John T. C. Moses, now a resident of Grand 
?lanan, received an appointment, in the spring of 1842, 
as assistant surveyor in the service of this naval survey. 
■ The Columbia steamed over to Annapolis Soyal shortly 
after to regulate her nautical instruments, chronometers, 
&c., &c, and returned to Campobeilo to receive fresh 
orders from the Admiral. 

Commander Harding, with an efficient staff of survey- 
ors, went to the City of St. John, remaining about six 
months in those waters, surveying the harbour and the 
River St. John. The survey of the river betw r cen St. 
John and Fredericton was performed during the winter 
on the ice, and the men suffered severely from exposure 
to cold. These surveys being completed, the Columbia 
steaming to Grand Manan surveyed all the south-east 
portion of the island — the Murr ledges and the Outer 
Islands. St. Andrew's Harbour next received attention 
from the attentive Columbia. 

In 1843 the Government wharf and a large store were 
built at Welchpool, and yet remain (although dilapi- 
dated monuments) as evidences that the surveying 
steamer Columbia had been there ; and the venerable 
Proprietor of the soil, Admiral Owen, and after him 



100 



Fundy Islands and Islets, 



Captain Robinson-Owen, but that they have left the 
once busy scene of operations, and left it to return - 
never ! 

They di«d not on the battle- field; but slept 
A quiet sleep—in peace — while others wept. 

Sic transit gloria mundi ! Such are the fluctuations 
of human happiness- — such the fading of worldly 
glory! 

Three young New Brunswiekers — Forbes, Burton and 
Otty — joined the Columbia while on the Bay of Fundy 
survey. Young Otty subsequently joined a man-of-war 
on the Mediterranean station ; but was unfortunate! v 
drowned, just as his promising abilities began to bud for 
blossom! He was of the City of St. John, and had he 
lived, would doubtless have won fame for himself and 
his native city. 

The present lighthouse keeper at the southern Wolf 
Island, Mr. Edward Snell, was Queen's pilot on board 
the Columbia, and from his lone look-out now can find- 
food for reflection. 

In the summer of 1844, Admiral Owen w r ent to Eng- 
land in the Columbia, his family accompanying him. 
The old Admiral of Campobello and of the steamship 
Columbia hoisted his broad pennant on going into the 
harbour of Portsmouth, and felt no doubt something of 
the spirit within him which swelled the spirit of the 
brave Collingw T ood, when he wdth full flowing topsails 
carried his ship into action ! 

Captain Robinson, of the Royal Navy, subsequently 
arrived from England, and having taken one of the old 
Admiral's daughters as a life-prize, the son-in-law ulti- 
mately became the possessor, the proprietor occupant of 
Campobello, taking the name of Robinson-Owen ; hence 
afterwards, he was always addressed as Capt. Robinson- 
Owen. 

After Campobello became the property of the son-in- 
law, he received sundry applications by gentlemen of 
New York for the purchase of the island, and a surveyor 
was sent on to survey the entire island, preparatory to 
the consummation of sale. If the writer has been cor- 
rectly informed, the stipulated price was one hundred 
and fifty thousand dollars. And although that reads * 
large sum, yet, taking the island's wealth of broad acr' 



into consideration, its unbounded wealth of sea- fishery, 
its wealth of valuable timber and undergrowth of lovely 
young trees, its rich pasturage, its numerous leased 
plots of cultivated gardens and neat residences, its 
water-power for mill privileges, its minerals, its almost 
unrivalled beauty of location, and the very entrepot for 
commercial facilities and advantages with the most 
easterly town of the most easterly state of the United 
Sates of America, that amount of money, in comparison 
I with its intrinsic value, is a mere trifle. 

It seems rather singular that no sale was effected, as 
Captain Robinson-Owen was willing to sell, and another 
party was anxious to buy. The captain's terms, how- 
ever, were very likely cash down, and therein may have 
been the cause of no transfer. 

There is a portion of the island — Wilson's Beach and 
vicinity — that is freehold, independent of the rest of the 
island, which would restrict the purchase of Campobello 
to certain defined limits, and that, of course, largely 
interferes with a sole proprietorship. Head Harbour 
lighthouse, too, with its other erections belong to the 
Dominion of Canada ; and the time has not yet arrived 
when the Canadian Government will put any of her 
public works in the market for sale. 

The numerous lessees resident on Campobello are too 
warmly, too firmly attached to the British flag, to see 
any other hoisted over their heads, emblematical of a 
foreign lessor. Such as patriotic Major Brown would 
never consent to it. 

Campobello, in common with the other islands of the 
Bay of Fundy, is the nursery of a hardy, skillful and 
enterprising race of men, who, should the hour of need 
demand their services, would prove themselves able and 
undaunted sailors — men who would never surrender the 
. flag of their country but with their lives. Of such stuff 
is our islanders composed. 

At the time of the threatened Fenian invasion, Cam- 
pobello was loyal to the core. 

The western part of this lovely island approaches 
the shore of Lubec quite closely. The channel be- 
tween the American town, Lubec, and the shore of 
- Campobello is narrow, and at low water it looks to 
\?*he uninitiated as an easy task to wade , across. 

14, 



102 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



The attempt, however, would teach the lesson of its 
impossibility. 

At a noted head-land near by rises up from the 
rushing tide a high rock, which, from its singularly 
marked resemblance to the head of a monk, has received 
the name of Friar's Head. Old dame Nature seems to 
have had a special regard for Grand Manan and Campo- 
bello in way of carving out for them the representations 
of clerical dignitaries ! She may have intended the Old 
Bishop at Northern Head, and the Old Maid at Southern 
Head, Grand Manan, as representatives of Adam and 
Eve, but missed it. And, indeed, very few of the pos- 
terity of those two ancient worthies would be willing to 
accept those two rough -looking portraits of humanity as 
the pictures of the father and mother of us all ! 

Geographically considered, there is a dissimilarity 
between Grand Manan and Campobello. For instance, 
Grand Manan has on its south side, its coves and har- 
bours, and roads and villages. Campobello, on its 
south eastern side, has no harbour or sheltered cove, or 
roads, or villages. The western side of Grand Manan 
offers no favours to seamen or landsmen — in safe 
harbours, roads, or villages. The north-western side 
of Campobello has its harbours, its villages, and its 
gardens. Therein, is the dissimilarity. 

wilson's beach. 

This portion of Campobello is no unimportant one. The 
Wilsons, after whom it is called, carried on a large and 
lucrative fish trade at one time here, and were highly 
esteemed, as accommodating and liberal-minded traders. 
The beach opens out on the river which runs past it 
from the Bay of Fundy, and between it and Deer Island 
and Indian Island. It is called the eastern passage, 
between Eastport and Head Harbour. The tide at 
either ebb or flood rushes past Wilson' s Beach with 
astonishing velocity ; and a vessel, once in the tide, 
even in a calm, will be carried onwards with wonderful 
rapidity. The eddies along both shores perform a 
friendly work in counteracting many a disaster which 
the whirling tides might otherwise occasion. 

There is a Free Will Baptist Church at this place, 
and quite a population. After the Wilsons closed up 



In Charlotte County, Neic Brunswick. 103 



business, the fishermen traded principally at Eastport, 
but as there is a store there now, a large share of the 
custom remains there, which proves of great conveni- 
ence, especially in rough weather and during the winter 
season. . The denominational faith of the people is 
principally divided between the Episcopalians and the 
Free Will Baptists. Quackery either in preaching or 
physic is not sufficiently patronised on Campobello, for 
any adventurer to try the experiment. 

The postal arrangements of and for the island afford 
good encouragement to the business-man, and to those 
who Wish to hold daily intercourse with newspapers. 

The venerable mail-conveyancer, Mr. Rice, of Welch- 
pool, has been on the route between that pool and the 
town of St. Andrews for many long years, and the 
many conflicts he has encountered while conveying Her 
Majesty's mail-bags to and fro between those ports 
would form quite an interesting chapter. During the 
winter season, particularly, to navigate the turbulent 
waters of the Passamaquoddy River and the St. Andrews 
Bay in a two sail boat, and that without any additional 
assistance, must have tried the skill and nerve of the 
fearless mail-man, Mr. Rice. But he was never known 
to shrink from his duty on account of a storm. Perhaps, 
indeed, his zeal betimes would appear to out-run his 
discretion ; and when many a man would have let 
the mail-bags lay over until the storm abated, he would 
close-reef his sails, and grasping his helm with a 
practised hand, bear away for the good old shire town of 
the County of Charlotte. 

Welchpool, annually, is the scene of a Fish Fair. At 
the close of the summer and autumn fishing the fair is 
held. And competitors for prizes exhibit specimens of 
fish with as much of the spirit of competition as the best 
Agricultural Fair can -show. This fair proves a jolly 
time, and invitation cards are posted off in good season, 
away up the St. Croix, even to Upper Milltown, not 
omitting St. Andrews, St. Stephen and the American 
City, Calais, on the way. 

Newspaper editors or their representatives are there ; 
and doctors and lawyers and ministers — both ecclesias- 
tical and governmental — and ladies, all slippered .for 
the dance, do congregate at Welchpool on the happy 



104 



Bay of Fundy Inlands and Islets, 



occasion of the annual fish fair. Then it is that the 
fastest sailing boats spread their canvas wings to fly over 
the waves of the Quoddy, in daring speed to win a first, 
a second or a third prize. Then it is that many a heart 
heats high in glowing anticipation of being presen at 
the Campobello fish fair and the ball in the evening ! 

The ball opens and the spirit of merriment may be 
supposed to make its appearance ; and in the words of 
the Rev. John Skinner, author of "Tuilochgorum" and 
other songs, sings : 

"Lay aside jour sour grimaces, 
Clouded brows and drumlie laces; 
Look about and see their graces, 
How they smile delighted. 
• Now's the season to be merry, 
Hang the thoughts of Charon's ferry; 
Time enough to turn camstary* 

When we're old and doited." 

The samples of fish cured at Campobello are very 
creditable ; and the "Finnan haddies" from there, find a 
ready sale at remunerative prices in the American 
markets, and in the Provinces of Quebec and Ontario, 
and elsewhere. 

Welchpool has now regular steam communication with 
St. Andrews ; and that of itself is a great acquisition to 
its many other facilities and advantages. 

The Head Harbour light and the keeper's residence 
stands on a bold, rugged rock, on the extreme north-east 
point of Campobello, directing the mariner through the 
channel that leads to Eastport and Indian Island. The 
West Isles, lying opposite, is only separated from this 
rocky point and Wilson's Beach by this tide-river, which 
rushes at all times of tide with great velocity. Head 
Harbour seems an appropriate name for the Harbour 
here .found. The lighthouse points the way, and vessels 
seeking safety from a storm, if once within this harbour, 
can ride out a gale without feeling it. The harbour 
penetrates the island for a long distance, and with its 
little separative windings, affords calm security and a 
lee-shelter that cannot be excelled even by its near 
neighbor, the far-famed L'Etang. The banks and 
shores and extended land on each side of this splendid 
river-harbour presents a very pretty pastoral picture in 
summer, as flocks of bleating sheep with their sportive 
lambs enrich the beauty of the scene. The mother of 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 105 

♦ milk and butter and cheese, too, can occasionally be 
seen reposing on her verdant couch on a gentle knoll ; 
chewing her cud with the utmost complacency, and quite 
indifferent to the approaching stranger under canvas, 
But the stranger-sailor, while looking pleasingly at the 

/good-natured face of the dreamy cow, cannot say with 
Selkirk : * ' They are so unacquainted with man, their 
tameness is shocking to me/' 

There is a long, narrow stretch of sharp rocks, extend- 
ing from the keeper's house to the mainland, nearly 
resembling the back bone of a whale. Over this, when 
the tide leaves it, is the pathway to the island road. 
Quite a fair road runs through the middle of the island 
from east to west ; and along this road, here and there, 
is a small clearing and a small house, a small cow, a small 
lot of poultry, a few small chickens, with two or three 
small children. It reminds one forcibly of anew settle- 
ment on a small scale. To the lover of inland scenery 
— of Nature's handftvork in a quiet way — a drive along 
this central road through Campobello (or to those who 
prefer a good long walk) with shrubbery and rich under- 
growth of woods and tall, waving branches, composing a 
welcome shade from the heat of cloudless sunshine, this 
road will be found very pleasant. At some little elbow 
turnings, there are the prettiest alcoves imaginable, 
where the velvety grass and thick foliage of saplings, 
woo the passer-by to rest awhile. They seem, indeed, 
as though they were for "whisp'ring lovers made." 

On leaving this woody road from an eastern starting 
point, or entering it from the western part of the island, 
the broad basin-like waters of the Harbour de Lute, 
fringed at many parts of its here flat and there elevated 
shores with neat cottages and gardens, impress the be- 
holder with the happiness of those who make happy 
blending of rural with sea-life their happy choice. The 
residents of Campobello are thus happily circumstanced. 
On it is sufficient variety of landscape, to meet the desire 
of those who love to ramble through the woods ; or, if 
desiring more adventurous recreation, can climb to the 
top of a lofty spruce, free from apprehension that Bruin 
may catch him on his descent ; or take a stand on the 
edge of a precipitous cliff, and look out on the ever- 
heaving bosom of the Bay of Fundy ; or casting the eye 



106 Bay of Fundi/ Island* and Islets, 



downward, see the whirling tides and eddies lashing the 
rocks of ages beneath his feet. Around it, those who 
love boating, can enjoy that salt-water luxury to any 
extent ; for bay and river, cove and harbour, are all 
before them for the using. No doubt many a roving 
youth, and others, seekers of wealth in distant lands, 
have often thought when far away from their Campobello 
Island home, like adopting the words of the poet Gray, 
and say or sing : 

"Ah happy hills ! ah pleasing shade ! 

Ah fields beloved in vain, 
Where ones ray careless childhood strayed 

A stranger yet to pain. 
I feel the gales that from ye blow 

A momentary bliss bestow, 
As waving fresh their gladsome wing, 

My weary sonl they seem to soothe. 
And redolent of joy and youth, 

To breathe a second spring.' » 



In Charlotte County, Netv Brunswick. 107 



CHAPTER VIL 

HE CAPITULATORY AND CONCLUSIVE, 

^^gfp||N closing the present history of the principal 
n^5^M| Islands of the Bay of Fundy, in the County 
of Charlotte, in the Province of New Bruns- 
% \ wick, and the Dominion of Canada, a reca- 
pitulation may be indulged in, without 
subjecting the author to the charge of redundancy. A 
few minor omissions, too, may find their record in this 
chapter, to as much purpose as if they had appeared in 
their regular order. 

The population of Deer Island, Indian Island and 
Campobello ought to have been stated under the proper 
head. It is not yet too late to supply the omission. 
When the census was taken in 1871 there were in the 
parish of West Isles (which includes Deer Island, Indian 
Island and adjacent islets) 299 families ; a total popu- 
lation of 1,556 — 815 of them being males and 741 
females. 

Campobello contains a population of 1,073 — males 
571, females 502. The number of families on the island 
in 1871 was 202. 

THE BAY OF FUND"? 

Is too important to be omitted in enumerating points 
and facts connected with the history of our islands. 

The pen of the historian of North America, of what- 
ever age or nation, has never failed to chronicle the 
wonderful tides, which of themselves are sufficient to 
entitle this bay, on the page of history, to the fame of 
being the most extraordinary known in the world. 
When Cabot in 1498 — when the adventurous French- 
man DeLevy in 1518 — when Sieur de Pont Grave in 
1603 — when Champlain and De Monts in 1605 — and 
away back in the centuries of the past, when the Micmac 
or Algonquin Indian paddled his birch canoe along the 



108 Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets, 



shores, and up and down the rivers, the basins and the 
lakes of this Acadia — those tides rushed on, as is now 
their wont, in their unparalleled irresistibility. 

It seems almost a tax on the credence of the human 
mind to imagine a rise of water twice in twenty-four 
hours to the immense height each of 60 or 70 feet, and 
ret it has its verification in the tides of the Bay of 
Fundy. 

Other tides, in other parts of the world, pale into 
insignificance compared with those mighty swellings of 
our grand old Bay of Fundy. 

Cumberland Basin, Cobequid Bay and Avon River 
are the principal points where those tremendously rush- 
ing tides roll on in terrible velocity and sublimity of 
grandeur. At the last-mentioned ,place, Avon Biver, a 
horseman often- has the speed of his horse put to hard 
trial to escape the fury of the rushing tide as he crosses 
from Yarmouth to Windsor. When the tide is out, the 
flats are hard and dry, and "a short cut" across the flats 
from village to town is preferable to a round-about 
road ; but whip and spurs are required betimes to escape 
the fury of the "bore," as he madly spreads over the 
flats with a seeming eagerness to outstrip the horse and 
his rider for their temerity in thus obtruding on his salt 
water domain. And there have been instances where 
victims have been overtaken and drowned while attempt- 
ing to cross the flats, which a little precaution would 
have prevented. A person acquainted with the tides 
runs little risk ; while one ignorant of their amazing 
impetuosity, had better travel higher ground than the 
flats at the head of Avon Kiver. 

. In dealing witR the history of Grand Manan, it ought 
to be mentioned that, on following the Whale Cove road 
from North Head to Eel Brook, a very pleasing sight is 
presented ; but the person or persons wishing to see it 
must take a clear starry night, or even a dark cloudy 
evening, any time, indeed, after twilight, provided there 
is no fog to veil the view r . On rising a hill, from the 
top of which Campobello and the North Shore is visible, 
there is a certain spot of ground from which, as, a stand- 
point, the eye can see the Swallow Tail light, the 
Point Lepreaux light, the south-west Wolf Island light, 
the White Head (Bliss Harbour) light, and Head Har- 



In Charlotte C<nuity, Xew Brunswick. 109 

bour light. Thus, from the one stand-point, without 
changing position, nothing more than a slight inclination 
of the head, the lamps of five lighthouses are plainly 
visible to the beholder. It is well worth the trouble of 
a walk and the seeking for the spot of ground — the 
standpoint. The looking for what you are sure to find, 
has even in itself a sort of teasing charm ; but you must 
not step around, tan tivy- like, slow and sure, to see tlie 
five lighthouses. The distances from the Northern 
Head to Head Harbour light and the Wolf Island 
I light, are said to be about equal, and the distance from 
| Wolf Island light to Head Harbour light is equal to its 
I distance from Northern Head ; therefore the three 
I angles and the three sides are equal, forming an 
; equilateral triangle of a salt-water area. 

Among the many changes for the better, regarding 
| our islands in the bay, the militia drilling may be 
' classed. The men of Grand Manan must be considered 
j sufficiently skilled in military tactics, as there is no 
! training on it in these days. The superior mode 
adopted years long ago was admirably calculated to 
effect proficiency ; for instance, a valiant captain, 
, whose trusty blade, his good broadsword, now hangs 
| suspended on a rusty nail near a cook stove,, would 
. drill his company in this wise : ' ' Take hold of the head 
of your ram-rod, and ram it down briskly, if yoa please, 
gentlemen." A gallant colonel from St. Andrews, CoL 
Hatch, was present on one of these occasions, and hearing 
! the directions of the captain, smilingly reprimanded him 
by saying : 4 ' There are no such words, sir, in the Drill 
! Book as "if you please, gentlemen.' " The polite captain 
succumbed to his superior officer, the noble colonel. 

Another Grand Manan captain would order his men. 
in true fisherman-style, to "ship bagnuts," "unship 
bagnuts" (bayonets). No wonder the art of war was so 
' speedily learned, under such competent officers. But. 
those good old days have passed a way ; the remembrance 
of them, however, is not so soon forgotten. Woodward's 
Cove was the field where our hardy fishermen learned 
to "play sodger" 

And where many a potent drain 
Cau3'd a real fight, and not a sham. 

The fishermen, being so accustomed to ship and 
15 



110 Bay of Fundy Islands and Met$ 9 

unship their boats' rudders, were delighted at receiving 
orders from their militia captain in their own vernacular ; 
hence a leading cause in their aptitude to learn. 

Another object worthy of notice, especially by the 
curious in such matters, may be seen at Pettes' Co'-e 
(this cove has also the name of Sprague Cove). 
The object of interest referred to is a large opening 
through the base of a high cliff at the north -western 
part of the cove, which must have been the w T ork of 
centuries, formed and eaten through by the action of 
the tides wearing and tearing, and disintegrating by 
piece-meal this huge hole through the rock. At low 
water or before it, and at two hours flood, there is but 
little difficulty in passing through the cliff by this 
rugged hall-way. The actual measurement of this 
gigantic orifice through the massive cliff is 25 feet in 
length, 8 feet in height and 8 feet wide, so that at 
high water those who wish to pass through in a boat 
need find no difficulty, no matter which way the wind 
Mows. A tourist from the states, some few years ago, 
visited the island, and in a book of his travels describes 
this hole through the wall of rock ; and that, in the face 
of the cliff through which he had passed, saw a striking 
profile, # which, from its strong resemblance to the face 
of Washington, he named Washington's Cliff. 

The wri ter of this history, from his view of it, believes 
that the profile bears a stronger resemblance to the face 
of Wellington, and, therefore, as it is a Canadian cliff, 
it seems more seemly to name.it Wellington's Cliff, in 
honour of the British hero of Waterloo. In deep seame 
high over head, when in this canopy of rock, may be 
seen a sulphurous sediment, and by laying some of it on 
the palm of the hand and smoothing it with a knife-blade, 
it resembles yellow paint. A rich variety of mineral 
rock is found here, consisting of manganese, crystalized 
quartz, and baryta. A beautiful specimen was picked 
up on the last day of June, 1878, of the quartz, that 
weighs some 10 lbs., glittering and sparkling like the 
shining stars of the luminous galaxy of the firmament. 

Before quite leaving the Northern Head district, 
around which the narrator's pen loves to linger, the nev 
fish weir, erected at Long's Eddy by Lakeman & Com- 
pany, merits at least a passing notice. Where then 



2js to stand on, nclchng to tiie rail to keep 
rolling larboard or starboard in motion 
•ait. He sees nothing, lie hears nothing. 
l of the rolling wave against the sides of 
. the discordant gratings of the booms and 
and blocks rubbing their hard heads to- 
shlv that it seems" they do not wish to 

clearer and clearer — there it is clear enough to discern a 
speck upon the water rising and falling with the undul- 
ating waves. Now it becomes plainly discernable. The 
object seen is an Indian — -not an Algonquin, neither a 
Milicete, but a veritable Miemae. There he stands, 
with arms folded across his bronzed breast, his dusky 
features shining in the gleam of sunshine like a 
polished mirror : the birch canoe, rising and falling 



m 



112 Bay of Fundi/ Islands and Islets-, 

with the gently rolling wave beneath his moccasin ed 
feet, seems like little more than a sheet of hark to stand 
mx. But the M-fcmac knows his canoe, and the tiny, 
frail-looking thing seems to know its master. There 
stands the stoical Indian, as impassive as a pillar of 
marble, away out, miles from sh^re, a lone occupant of 
his frail home upon the deep. The beauty of the land- 
scape of surrounding islands, the tops of lighthouses, 
resembling the white spires of churches in the distance, 
have lost their usual attractions. The one object, the 
Micro ac in his canoe, only arrests attention. See ! he 
bends forward — now his right arm leaves its mate — the 
hand grasps the top of something — it is his faithful 
gun. Almost as quick as thought, it is at his shoulder. 
A sharp report goes booming over the glassy sea — a 
tiny .cloud of smoke lifts from over the canoe> and the 
Indian, with his long, coarse black hair streaming down 
his back, is seen speeding over the waves, with a haste 
as though life and death were the motive power of his 
propelling paddles. And so they are. Another moment, 
and the canoe rocks quietly on the wave, the Indian 
stoops, rising again instantly, and with his rising ir* 
comes into the canoe a porpoise dripping blood. The 
fat sea-pig of the bay, had unwisely exposed himself to 
the eagle-like eye of the Micmac — the unerring aim had 
been taken — -and the late stoical Indian had proved 
himself the impassioned rifleman of the Bay of Fundy. 
In a short hour or two, the porpoise, late piaffing in 
freedom among the rolling waves, will have his pelt hung 
across a pole by a wigwam, while the little papoose, 
almost as oil} 7 as the porpoise, is trying an attempt at a 
war-dance and a war-whoop over the carcase — a faint 
picture of the bloody scenes ot Indian warfare in the 
olden times. 

Ashore, and in proof of the facilik? of the soil at the 
Northern Head district, it is only necessary to state the 
fact, that about the middle of June, 1876, a cabbage was 
measured in the garden of Rev. Aaron \ Ken ney, which 
was found to be over thirty inches across from tip to 
tip of two leaves, potatoes as large as hens'" eggs and 
peas in pod half-grown. At Pettes' Cove beets, in the 
same month, eight inches high — the leaves broadly 
covering the rows, and in this case, free from the 



In 



Xeic Bnuisicick 



111 



euervat: 
excellin 
it wottlc 
sterility 



with 



(Iran d 
Sir ova 





Head 



Dread 



beauty 01 the p. 
North Head, 
raised towards 
undertaking. 



itiier 
v be 
the 



nan, 
very 



114 



Bay of Fundy Islands and Islets. 



few scores of years since the good old veteran pioneers 
in its settlement, Flagg and Sprague, pitched their 
tents, with the resolve each "here will I jive and here 
will I die;" and so they did, living useful lives, and 
dying peaceful deaths. 

The postal facilities, too, which this important island 
enjoys, presents a striking contrast with those of the 
past. Years ago, and not long ago, a small schooner 
would fly the mail -flag over, very likely, a dozen of 
newspapers and half as many letters 1 ;* and passengers, if 
any, would much rath er prefer a seat on the lumbered -up 
deck, although saturated with salt-water spray, than go 
below and enjoy the delectable oscillation of pitching 
and plunging in sweet harmony with Her Majesty's 
mail-vessel. Bet lines a small sailboat was brought into 
requisition. The salary to the mail-carrier would not 
justify him in indulging himself with the luxury of a 
fish-schooner, rendered delightfully odoriferous by the 
presence of old oil barrels, decayed fish tubs, and 
swashing bilge water. Then the wail of the mail-carrier, 
echoed by some sympathising friends, or the cry of a 
%orely grieved passenger, would reach the ear of the mighty 
and the merciful House of Assembly and the Governor in 
Council, and a few more dollars would be added to the 
salary of the Grand Manan mail-carrier. Things got 
better at last. 700 dollars were granted as an annual 
compensation, and a fast-sailing vessel, well fitted for 
freight and passengers, was put on the route as a regular 
packet. She was called the Carrier Dove, and the people 
of the island and others hailed her with joy akin to old 
Noah, when he received the dove into the ark. There 
w r as one vesse]<| previous to the Dove that merited the 
name of packet, the Grapeshot, built by Capt. Eben 
Gaskill for a packet, as he had had encouragement (by 
promises) to do so, but he had good cause to lose faith 
in the promises, and the handsome little Grapeshot 
turned her cannon's mouth in another direction than the 
post-office. The 700 dollars' grant was finally over- 
whelmed by 4000 dollars subsidy, to have a steamer run 
twice each week during the summer months and once 
a week the rest of the year, between St. Stephen, and 
North Head and Woodward's Cove, Grand Manan, 
touching at St. Andrews, Eastport (Me.), and Campo- 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 



115 



hello, with and for mails, and other males, and females, 
too, should they desire to step on board the William 
8,troud. This little steamer has been recently fitted up 
very creditably, and is now well provided with suitable 
•accommodation for freight and passengers ; and more 
than all, the mail-bags are not likely to be immersed in 
salt water/ at* they used to be betimes on board the 
sailboats, so much so, that newspapers and even letters 
had frequently to be dried before being read. Travellers 
intending to visit Grand Manan can always make close 
connections at Eastport, as the Stroud leaves there 
every Monday and Thursday forenoon for the island. 
Fare, one dollar, United States currency. 

Grand Harbour has two heaths in close proximity to 
the village which entitle them to distinction, by produc- 
ing a singular kind of fruit called '(perhaps .from a 
similarity in colour) "baked apple." The plant or 
stalk on which it grows is not over 5 or 8 inches in 
height. Only one "apple" on a stalk. The fruit is 
about the size of a large walnut cut in two. It makes a 
delicious preserve, and is a general favourite with the 
most fastidious epicurean. It is not only a splendid 
preserve, but is very pretty withal, and handsome arid 
nice enough to take a proud position on the table of 
royalty . Let any visitor enquire for "Gardner's Heath," 
and test the "baked apple." 

The sad disasters and shipwrecks of the Bay of 
Fundy have been numerous. Hundreds of human lives 
have been lost in the terrible storms that have swept 
over the bay from time to time. Not unfrequentiy a 
vessel has left her native port, freighted with men, 
women and children, all intent on a pleasure-trip, when 
in a few short hours they have been engulphed in the 
sea — the howling winds and the roaring, breaking 
waves singing their requiem as they went struggling 
down to their ocean graves. 

It has been the merciful work of some persons to 
have proved themselves instrumental in rescuing many 
fellow- mortals from impending death, even 1 along the 
shores, the ledges and the islets of Grand Manan. Mr. 
John Kent and his sons did much in this way, dating 
away back to the year 1810, when Capt. Burnham and 
3 men were saved by them ; in 1811, the ship Duke of 



116 



Bay of Fundi) Islands and Islets, 



Ken t, capt. and 39 men ; the same year, a schooner 
and 4 men and a brig and 9 men ; and so on, up till 1824, 
haying rescued from 1810 up to 1824, 93 men. This 
good work, after the death of John Kent, was followed up 
by his son, Jonathan Kent, ending with the year 1863, 
and numbering 80 lives saved — total 178 persons rescued 
from watery graves by "the Kent family; and in many 
cases relief in food and clothing extended the saved 
ones. 

But a brighter day has dawned over the waters of the 
Bay of Fundy, since the dark era of 1810, when no 
warning light threw its gleams of merciful interposition 
far over the treacherous rock and yawning wave. Mac- 
hias Seal Island light, Gannet Rock light, the Swallow 
Tail light ; with Long's Eddy f3g-whistle, all stand as 
faithful sentinels to warn the mariner of inpending 
danger. 

Grand Manan has thus her watchguards through the 
long dark hours of night, holding up her luminous 
lamps to the anxious sailor, as he looks longingly for 
the beacon-star to guide him on his course. 

The other islands, even to that little group called the 
Wolves, has on the most southern island a revolving 
light, flashing forth to almost all points of the compass 
its shining to the distance, in clear weather, of 20 
miles. And the Head Harbour red cross white light 
flings its bright sheenings away over the main channel 
that conducts the keel of steamer or of barque far up the 
silvery waters of the St. Croix River, even to the very 
head, of tide-water, where the hospitable and enterpris- 
ing town of St. Stephen, N. B., and the city of Calais, 
Me., are continually engaged in laudable rivalship of 
commercial industry. 

To return to the consideration of the principal pro- 
duct of our islands in the Bay of Fundy, and to give hi 
detail yearly statistics of the value of fish exported- — 
pickled, dried and smoked — would swell our little his- 
tory far beyond its limited pages. Such detail, if 
presented, #would carry the reader along through a 
regular ratio of progression, step by step, elucidating 
the steady and gradually increasing value of the fisheries 
in the bay. But as this is impracticable here, it must 
suffice for the present purpose to take the catch of two 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 117 

years ; lay fish, facts and figures side by side, in close 
1 proximity, and by this juxtaposition^vidence, see the 
ultimatum of the progressive principle. 

From an authentic record kept in the year 1829, the 
money value — in fact the money realized by the sales of 
all the fish caught on Grand Manan in that year — 
amounted to four thousand dollars. Now, passing over 
46 years (having to more than epitomize), and coming 
down to the year 1875, we find, by a similar authentic 
statistic, that the sales of that year's catch of fish on 
Grand Manan amounted to two hundred and eighty- six 
thousand eight hundred and forty-six dollars, which any 
arithmetician can soon ascertain to be a yearly average 
increase of over 6148 dollars. Surely that fact is 
satisfactory evidence of the steadv increase of the value 
of the fisheries of the parish of Grand Manan. A sum 
of 6148 dollars annual increase for the last 46 years. 
Were the products of the soil and the increase of live 
stock, cattle and sheep, to be added to the value of the 
fish, the figures would read a very handsome increase. 
And as it is with the Island of Grand Manan, so with 
those other islands of Charlotte County. Apart from 
exhibiting statistics, the proofs are manifest. The 
residences, the churches, the schoolhouses, the stores, 
the wharves, the boats, the vessels, the cultivated fields, 
the roads, the horses, cows, oxen, sheep, and poultry, 
with here and there the rural hog-pen, all testify to the 
steady march of improvement. 

And what of the increase of human population ? It 
would require more men — more by hundreds than 
peopled Grand Manan from Deep Cove to Eel Brook in 
the old days of the Seal Cove Dr. Faxon, when Jack 
Tar sang his rebel song — to catch and cure fish to 
bag nearly 300,000 dollars ! The island has those 
men. 

The population has gone on, and goes on increasing ; 
and as ringers multiply, hooks on the trawls multiply, 
and quintals of fish multiply, and boxes of smoked 
herring multiply, and dollars multiply, and so goes on 
the multiplying process of the steady, gradual, increas- 
ing development of prosperity, pecuniary and intel- 
lectual. 

The hake-fishing season, which usually begins in July 



118 



and ends with the first fall month, or, as it sometimes 
happens, runs into October, is always looked forward to 
with ardour full of hope, by the fishermen,. It is, 
indeed, an epoch in the island fisheries of more than 
usual interest, animation and profit. At this period 
Pettes' Gove presents a most animated picture of fishing 
life. To see upwards of 30 boats and 60 men landing on 
the beach — the boats filled with large fish, and the men 
with bared arms and keen knives commencing the work 
of "dressing" on large tables prepared for the occasion, 
is no dull si^ht. It is only the expert and well-trained 
fisherman who can "go through" a fish in artistic style! 
To watch the process is not without its charm to a student 
of surgery. First the decapitation, then the embowelling, 
next the scientific cut- vertebral, followed by the dexterous 
pluck of the backbone from the all unconscious bake, 
and the whole post-mortem process is completed. The 
heads, back-bones and other unused portions of the 
entrails are cast upon the beach, to be carted away for 
compost- manure, or spread upon fields as fertilizers ; or 
as in too many cases, permitted to remain until the tides 
wash them away, or they' become exceedingly offensive 
by reason of the noxious effluvia arising from putrefying 
on the shore. The hake is a very profitable fish. First 
the hake will take in salt in its curing nearly equal in 
weight to itself ; and as fishermen are reputed, like 
sailors, to possess very generous dispositions, knowing 
this peculiarity of the hake, it is not to be supposed that 
the salters will be parsimonious in its application to the 
body corporate. Then the livers are sold as soon as 
taken from the fish at prices varying from 60 to 80 
cents a bucket, or otherwise put in barrels or casks to 
melt into oil by the heat of the sun. Fishermen, gener- 
ally, prefer selling them to those who make a business 
of preparing oil for the market, considering it the most 
profitable mode. Then the sounds are washed, dried 
and sold at good prices, from fifty cents to one dollar. 
The latter price has been paid, and much competition 
among buyers is always manifested. The gold dust 
of California in its palmiest days could not have caused 
greater excitement and rivalry among buyers than the 
veritable hake sounds among traders in sounds. A 
novel idea struck the minds of our fishermen one season. 



In Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 119 

Prices ran high, strange reports and false rumors were 
circulated, having their headquarters in Eastport, con- 
cerning the prices offered by American firms. The idea 
was to unite together in solid, hake sounds phalanx, 

\ bring every man, woman and child his, her or its amount 
of sounds together, and offer the whole for sale by 

' auction. The fishermen, rightly judging of human 
nature by themselves, that this plan would bring out all 
the buyers, and as determined competition wDuld give 
the sellers the full benefit of the spirit of opposition in 
the buyers, the sounds were collected, the auction took 
place. One trader found little or no opposition ; the 
scheme, well-planned, failed; and the result was that 
the subsequent mode adopted was and is to this 
day: "Every one," in selling sounds "on his own 
hook." Thus the hake is exceptionally the profitable 
fish of the bay in body, liver and sound. 

Fears are entertained by many fishermen — men of 
thinking minds and large experience — that the trawling 
system is calculated to prove extremely detrimental to 
the fisheries. The previous mode of catching line-fish 
was by hand lines ; and although a more tedious oper- 
ation, yet quite remunerative without exhausting th© 
supply. Now, however, the fishermen complain that 
this trawling will eventually, indeed in a very few years, 
perhaps not so long, destroy the in-shore fishing. If so 
small boats will prove useless, and the young men will 
either have to go in vessels on deep sea fishing voyages, 
or otherwise have to leave their homes and homesteads 
for other lands. Those in-shore fishermen complain 
that schooners anchor miles from shore, and by setting 
their trawls so far outside of the in-shore lines, keep 
the fish from striking nearer the land, and, conse- 
quently, they, the iiushore fishermen, must either follow 
them miles from shore in their small boats, which is 
next to impossible in windy weather, or relinquish the 
only avocation they have followed as the means of sup- 
port for themselves and families. There is, therefore, 
a very fair opportunity now for the Department of Marine 
and Fisheries at Ottawa, and certain other parties not 
so far from salt water as Ottawa, to look into such 
matters, and govern themselves accordingly. 

Y/ith the pi^esent history of the islands of the Bay of 



120 Bay of Fwndy Islands and Islets, 



Fundy, in Charlotte County, before them, and the public j 
generally, no person can claim ignorance of the import- 
ance of those islands as a portion of the Dominion of 
Canada, and of the necessity to look carefully into the 
best means available to add to that importance, to 
foster, by wise and just legislation, the natural resources 
of those islands, and to assist the people in their 
hazardous and laborious calling to yet greater develope- 
ments in'working out their part, to their own individual 
advancement, and to the common interest of this 
"Canada of ours." 

Taking the population, the area, the wealth and the 
native talent, and in many the cultured minds of the 
parish of Grand Manan, the parish of West Isles, and of 
Campobello into consideration, it seems strange that 
those islands have not been represented in the Legis- 
lature of the Province of New Brunswick, by one of 
themselves — a resident of any one of the islands. No 
local jealousy ought to exist on this point. No matter 
whether of Grand Manan proper, or any of its outlying 
islands; whether of White Head or Nantucket ; whether 
from the near proximity of the Old Bishop or that 01 
the Old Maid, near Deep Cove, or here or there ; no 
matter if a resident of Welchpool or Wilson's Beach, or 
Harbour de Lute, or Indian Island, or even Thrum Cap, 
or Lord's Cove, or Fairhaven, or Chocolate Cove, or no 
cove at all — anywhere on Deer Island — it matters not — 
on the subject of those important islands sending one of 
their own men to represent their ever-increasing inter- 
ests in the Provincial Parliament of New Brunswick, 
there should be no dissent. Let those island parishes 
be a unit in this matter. Let the people decide to put 
shoulder to shoulder in this cause, and there will not be 
found votes enough in the County of Charlotte to leave 
that island candidate at home. It cannot be expected 
that an outsider — one whose home, relatives, associ- 
ations, property, interests, are all on the mainland — 
feels and takes that interest in the prosperity of the 
islands that he takes in his own locality, and those 
nearer to him than the islands. It is the duty there- 
fore, of the islanders to be true to themselves, their 
families and their homes, and no longer remain passive 
in this absolutely necessary work of political reform ; 



tn Charlotte County, New Brunswick. 121 

I • : ; , 

but begin to think well of it, look into it, appreciate the 
necessity, and collecting all their electoral strength 
together, use it wisely and well, elect their man, call 
. him out by requisition as the man of their choice, and 
send him forth from that political focus, the ballot-box, 
wearing the garland of victory, to be their mouth-piece 
and their representative on the floor of the Legislature 
of their country. 

There is an end to all tilings here below sooner or 
later; and on counting our pages of manuscript, we are 
admonished that the end of our little history draweth 
nigh. Many hours have passed pleasantly in^epm- 
piJation. And yet they are remembered with regret. 
Regret that the work has been so imperfectly performed ; 
so much left undone that ought to have been done, and 
vice versa. The author is neither ignorant nor 
indifferent to the critical crucible it has to pass 
through, and yet he will not so cringe with fear and 
trembling as to beg of critics to be merciful. Like, 
rather > the stern battlement of nature's rocks which face 
defiantly the* lashings of the merciless sea. he looks 
unmoved upon the sneering lip and would-be caustic 
pen. 

Having no pecuniary equivalent in view — free from 
that consideration — his one ardent, deep, sincere desire is 
that the little brief history of the islands treated of, all 
unpretentious as it is, will tend to make those islands 
better known — -will give them a place, ' 'a local habitation 
and a name" — among the many portions of British 
North America, confederated as they are into one great 
and rising nationality, known by the name of The 
Dominion of Canada. 

The writer has not drawn upon imagination to picture 
by pen sketches the loveliness, the picturesqueness, the 
beauty of those islands as they lay out and rise up 
among the waves of the Bay of Fundy. They need but 
to be seen to be admired. The words of the poet Cow- 
per are applicable to them : 

" Scenes must be beautiful which daily view'd. 
Please daily; and whose novelty survives 
Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years." 



And, now to close, let the pen of Colonial pa 



122 Bay of Fundy Islands c 



triotism write, and the heart of Canadian patriotism 
feel, that 

As the high fame of the Dominion grows; 

As farmers till the soil, and fishers fish the sea — 

Contented in prosperity — 

Resigned in adversity — 
And beneath high Heaven's approving smiles, 
Our own lov'd Bay of Fnndy's lovely isles, 

will, in the next decade of years, judging from the past, 
afford a yet richer field for interesting and gratifying 
reminiscences. 



THE END, 



• 



CANADIAN 

Newspaper Subscription Agency. 



leadint 



9 



TORONTO, MONTREAL, AND OTTAWA WEEKLIES AND 
DAILIES; CANADIAN NEWS; CANADIAN MONTH- 
LY ; NEW DOMINION MONTHLY ; CANADIAN 
FARMER ; SAINT JOHN TELEGRAPH ; 
HARPER'S PUBLICATIONS ; FRANK 
LESLIE'S PUBLICATIONS ; NEW 
YORK WEEKLIES AND 
DAILIES : BOSTON 
WEEKLIES & 
DAILIES 
& 

CHICAGO 
AND DETROIT 
DAILIES & WEEK- 
LIES : FASHION, DOMES- 
TIC, RELIGIOUS, MUSICAL, TEM- 
PERANCE, ART, COMIC, HEALTH, 
MEDICAL, LAW, COMMERCIAL, SCIEN- 
TIFIC, FARMING, POULTRY, AND SPORTING 
PAPERS & MAGAZINES. SEND FOR CIRCULAR 
BEFORE ORDERING ELSEWHERE. AGENTS WANTED. 

Address: C. N. TROOTO, 

or Canadian Newspaper Subscription Agency, 
St. Stephen, N. 8". 



INSURANCE AGENCY. 




OF CAW AID A. 

Established 1864. Capital $2,000,000. Govern, 
ment Deposit 8103,000. 



Canada Fire & Marine Insurance Co. 

Established 1874. Capital $1,000,000, fully subscribed. 
Government Deposit $50,000. 



Fire and Aoeideiit Insurance effected at 
Reasonable Kates. 

pT. Stephen, N. B. 



124 St. Steplien Advertisements, 




§atitjr and Wmhi J^ttule& 

SPONGES, BBUSHES, 

Soaps, Perfumery, &c. 

Physicians' Prescriptions 
Carefully Confounded. 

DBPOSITOBY 



FOR THE 




St. Stephen Advertisement*. 



125 



Selling Off ! Selling Off ! ! 



NEXT THE SAINT STEPHEN'S BANK, OFFERS 
GREAT 

1Bmm@$iM& worn €m§Wm 



GALL AND LOOK BEFORE BUYING ELSE- 
WHERE. ALL KINDS OF 



If O 

AND 




READY-MADE CLOTHING, 

Boots and ^hoes, <^c 



THE WHOLE STOCK 
To be Sold Regardless of Cost ! 



$g" CALL AND 

i«F •¥ Mis ©®tt®a Wiipi 



OF 



H. W. GODDARD. 



126 St. Stephen Aflrerfisemenfs. 

WATCHES! WATCHES! 

LADIES' A.iSl> GENTS' 

fjim (Sold and Silver Watches, 

JEWELRY, 

|f INE ||TRUSCAN 1@0L» 0ETS, V<pXAINS, 

Bracelets, ;^g. 

Solid Silver and Silver Electro Plated Tea 
Sets, -Cake Baskets, Butter Dishes, Castors, &c., 

FANCY GOO OS, 

Table Spoons and Forks, Tea and Dessert Spoons 
and Forks, Parlor Clocks (30 hours, 8 day and 3 
Weeks), &c 

A FINE LOT OF 

FOR SALE CHEAP. 

G. P. PIUDEH, 

Four I>oors from Bridge, 

Water street, St. Stephen, N. B. 

$W Agent for Florence Setting MacJiine. 



St. Stephen Advertisements. 127 



Hasluonalrle fpiulorinn 



I take this opportunity of announcing that I 
have bought out the interest of my late partner 
in the Tailoring business, and will continue the 
same business at the old stand, commencing now 
with a full and well-selected stock of every re- 
quisite connected with the Tailoring business. 
All Garments warranted to fit, or no sale. I 
will keep constantly on hand a good assortment 
of 

READY-MADE CLOTHING 

AND 

Gentlemen's Furnishing Goods. 

I have just received a New lot of Fashionable 
Cloths, which I will sell by the yard or make up 
to order at very low prices to suit the times. 



Look for the Sign 




MAKE NO MISTAKE. 




Opposite LOVE, CLARK & CO.'S DRUG STORE, 

Water Street, St. Stephen. 



128 



St. Stephen Advertisements. 



J. K. LAFLI1T. 

ODSR^SHIP&SICN PAINTER 

ALSO DEALER IN 

WHITE LEAD & OIL 



MIXED PAINTS, 



Those desirous of doing their own Painting, would do 
well to give us a call. 

Large or small quantities of Paint and Oil furnished 
as desired. 

Glazed Windows 

A SPECIALTY. 

Window itoss ©f Ml Stos* 



V ANY OF JHE ABOVE FURNISHED AT 
SHORT NOTICE. 

ORDERS RESPECTFULLY SOLICITED. 

J. K. JLAFLIN, 

Water Street, St. Stephen. 



Eastport and Campobello Advertisement. 129 

v - ■ , 




{MISSION IllllNfS, 

DEALERS IN 

■§i$h, (§ish §ils fish §uano f 

AND CURERS OF THE 

WORLD RENOWNED 

"F1XNAX II A DD EES" 
And Yarmouth Bloaters. 

ALSO, 

Manufacturers of the Original 

CAP! All OIL CLGTHEN&. 

FACTORIES AT 

EASTPORT, ME., • CAMPOBELLO, N. B. 



130 



Grand Marian Advertisement*. 



KEEPS AT THE POST OFFICE, 
North Head, 

§i| (Soois and §iwisions 

FOR SALE 

A I Price* tor Ready Money thai offer 
<*i*eat Imlucemeiits to Parchai^ern. 

W- GALL Jk.l<TJD SIEGUL 

Grand Manan, 1876. 



Magnus Green 



Oealer in 



IS P* 



HARDWARE, DRY GOODS, 



? 

Opposite tne Steamboat Tending, 

NORTH HEAD, - GRAND MAN AN. 



Offers 

Dry Goods, Prints, Calicoes, Ginghams, Sheetings 
and Shirtings, Ribbons, Laces, 

And a Great Variety of 

At her Residence, near Prttes' Core, North Head, on very Reasonable Terms. 



Grand Manan Advertisements. 



131 



William Watt, 

Keeps Constantly on Hand a Good Assortment of 

■lout, fork. leajs, -Sugars, 

IPOBACCO. 8( pF^OCEI\IES 



7 

Of all Kinds, also a Great Variety of 



CROCKEEY-WASE, 

AT CHEAP PRICES, 
EOR GREENBACKS OH MERCHANTABLE EISH. 

STOBE 

Nearly opposite Steamboat Landing, North Head, 

GHRANU MANAN. 

James O'Brien, 

OFFERS 

GOODS AND PROVISIONS, 

FISHERMEN'S OUTFITS, 

Fishing G-ear, Lines, Hooksj Nets, Anchors. 

AT REASONABLE PRICES, 
EITHER FOR CASH OR FISH. 



Smoked Fish always on hand, and can be shipped to 
order at all times. 

Good facilities for Boats Landing at his Wew Wharf. 

North Head, Grand Manan. 



132 



Grand Manan Advertisements. 



m i 



Keeps constantly on Hand a Large Assortment of 

ROVISIOHS, GROCERIES, 

jf^EADY- JAaDK jZ) LOTHING, 

B&BDW&BB & €B@€MMMF» 



And a Good Stock of 



DKY GOODS. 



All of which are sold at the most reasonable prices. 
Customers promptly attended to. 

Woodward's Cove, Grain! Manan, Sept. 1876. 



CALL AT MY STORE 

And You will find all kinds of Goods which 
make up a large variety of 

provisions, groceries, §rockery, 

OLOTHHSTG, 

Very Cheap for Cash or Good Merchantable Fish. 

A Fair Exchange is tlie i*f otto of My Store. 

JOHN FRASBR, 

WOODWARDS' COVE, GRAND MANAN, 

Sept. 1876. 




HISTORY 



ISLANDS & ISLETS 



m THE 



B A Y O F FUXJ) Y, 



Oharlotle founty, New Brunswick: 

r> [ITF. PHKS*NI 



j| TIIFJK EARLIEST ^ETi'LEMEN 



Sketches of Shipwrecks and' Other 
Events of Exciting In terest 




BY 

G. LORIMER, Esq. 



ST; STEPHEN. |K H- 
Vr/KHK ttFKICE OF THE SAINT CROIX COUUIKli 



n it i* goo ds. 

SMITH I MURRAY, 

Water Street, Saint Stephen. 

S. & M. have always on hand a large and 
well-assorted stock of Dry Goods, and respect- 
fully call the attention of their Customers and 
the Public 1 generally to the following Depart- 
ments : 

Dress Goods Department. 
Silk Department. 
Hosiery and 'Glove Beet. 
Print and Cotton Dept. 
Shawl Department. 
if lannel Department. 
C anadian M weed and I 

■ ,/ I DEPT. 

Heady-made ^Clothing > 

fj^-Our Stock is Large, Our Prices Reas 
able, and All Goods Warranted. 

SMITH &MTJRBA! 

WMQ&RS&LE & RE I L 9 

Y/ATER ^Tf\EET, £>T. S'i'EPHEN. 



§reat Dry (Goods (Emporium. 
A. E. WEILL * CO., 

CALAIS, 3VC-A-IIsrii3, 

With their immense .Stock of 




Are alwavs prepared to offer (he 

PyEATEST "[Bargains and the Lowest 
Prices in p v e r y Pescription of 
Pry Goods and ^oolens'. 



THEY CALL PARTICULATE AND 

SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THEIR 

Magnificent Line of 

AMERICAN COTTONS 

A X I ) CALICOES, 

On which they arc prepared to offer Tlie Loircnt Prices 
for Twenty-tire Year* .' 

BUY OF THEM AND SAVE MONEY. 
A. E. NEILL <fe CO., 

m A I V A N 1) UN 7 O N 8 T U K E T8, 

< AI, VIS ME, 



SUBSCRIBE FOR- — . 

voix fKotmei 




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Courier Suilding, Water Street, St. Stephen, N. § 

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cities 



In Politics it is Liberal-Conservative, and opposed to Grii^m, 
veloped in the present Government, with all its shams ami hvpoc 
Public affairs are always discussed with ,he utmost candor and fairne 

In Local Politics, its watchword is Free Schools and economy in th 
management of Public Affairs.-, f ' 

ftEADJ UK A I) ! ! KRAI)!!! 

Head the STOIMKS. Lead the. AG&LCUL HJRAL COLU.UTN Spoe 
allv adapted tn the . Farming Interests of th« country. Head lb 
YOUNG FOLKS' DEPARTMENT, full of never-failing insiurmfio 
and amu8f>menf> to th<? Children . 



Is emphatically the PEOPLK'S PA PER, Stihson&e lor it if von wis 
to peruse a LIVE, LOCAL PAPKIJ. 

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furnished at $1 00 a-vear, Canada Cuirency. 



JOB HR i NTI.N(i 

Oh ALL XIA*I?S gXBCI'TMn WITH KATIES & * ( De* 
PATCH, & Qtf T&E MOST XIeA S OA\ltf£E TEAMS* 

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Sep*. LS7H. St. Stephen, X. H. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




017 397 561 2 # 



